i dont kno if this is a good way to measure it, but besides needing an alignment and balancing and a new driver side axle (boot is ripped), but even after changing the front right caliper im seeing that more brake dust still builds up on the front driver side rim rather than the passenger side rim. also it tends to pull a little to the left when i brake, but not always. sometimes it even pulls to the right, so im guessing the pulling has to do with the road. the passenger side caliper is bled properly, i did it when i installed it, but idk bout the driver side. would that do anything?

 

maybe try bleeding everything. all four corners

start with the furthest away from the master cylinder

 

ok, did that and still the same problem. i asked the guy at mavis what it could be and he said that the front left (the caliper that builds up a lot of dust) probably isnt releasing properly. therefore it stays on the rotor and sheds a lot of brake dust. so should i get a new front left caliper?

 

check your calipers, take your wheel off, take the caliper off (just off the bracket, leave it attatched to the car via the brake hose) take the pads out, crack the bleeder screw and try to compress the piston, if it doesnt go it, then your caliper is seized, so when your driving, the brakes are always working on that wheel. Itll kill acceleration and gas mileage too. If your caliper is seized, your pads on the drivers side should have less meat than the passenger side.

i just noticed you said you changed your front right caliper, this would be the passenger side right? just wanna double check that.

 

Before committing to buying a new or re-man caliper try cleaning all of the brake components with brake clean and lubricating them with anti-seize or some type of brake lubricant. Get the slides and pad mounts also the back of the pads. Hopefully this will solve the problem so you don't have to buy an expensive caliper.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JBLude01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Before committing to buying a new or re-man caliper try cleaning all of the brake components with brake clean and lubricating them with anti-seize or some type of brake lubricant. Get the slides and pad mounts also the back of the pads. Hopefully this will solve the problem so you don't have to buy an expensive caliper.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what brake components would that be? like around the piston area?


thizz - after openin the bleeder screw, should i be able to compress the piston with my hands?

thanks for the help guys

 

Usually when a car pulls to one side the problem is with the caliper on the OTHER side.

For example, if there is air in the line it must be compressed before you get full pressure on the brake pads. So the caliper on the OTHER side is forced to do more than it's fair share of the work..hence more dust.

If a caliper is not releasing from the rotor, you would quickly have an overheated caliper, pads, and rotor. As in smoke pouring out of the wheel well. Also, it would pull to that side until it overheated, then it would pull to the other side.

So....pay more attention to the caliper, pads, rotor on the side that it's NOT pulling to. You may have a lazy caliper or air in the line.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95hprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what brake components would that be? like around the piston area?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lubricate the slide pins, mounting bracket where the pads sit, and all spots where the caliper moves, without getting any on the pad surface or rotor.

Also if the caliper is hanging up you will need to get one. Try cracking the screw as tizz said, and no you will not be able to move the caliper by hand, get a large C-clamp or a large pair of channel locks to move the piston, it shouldn't take to much effort. If it takes a lot of force it is probably siezed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JBLude01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lubricate the slide pins, mounting bracket where the pads sit, and all spots where the caliper moves, without getting any on the pad surface or rotor.

Also if the caliper is hanging up you will need to get one. Try cracking the screw as tizz said, and no you will not be able to move the caliper by hand, get a large C-clamp or a large pair of channel locks to move the piston, it shouldn't take to much effort. If it takes a lot of force it is probably siezed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i had to move the piston before when put in new pads. it moved with a c clamp and not too much effort.

glen - i just changed that caliper and bled the 2 front calipers starting with the passenger side then the driver side

 

well i tried to c clamp the piston back in and this time it was stuck and was really hard to move, so i went ahead and ordered a new caliper.

 

well i got a new caliper and the uneven braking is gone! cost me 50 bucks...not bad

 

actually...it's still there a little, and there is still a lot more brake dust building up on one side than the other. any other suggestions?