i recently rebuilt my gsr motor. i did skunk2 stage 2 cams and cam gears(set at 0degrees), skunk2 valve train, skunk2 manifold, jdm itr pistons new rings, new bearings, gaskets and seals, apexi vafc ( tuned for bolt ons on stock motor) stock obd1 ecu(p72), I/H/E. i only have like 200 miles on it so fare. while im driving and coming to a stop the idle drops really low then stalls out. then restarts fine. and when i hit vtec it looses power. what do i need to do. adjust distributor, get new ecu (which one should i go with give a couple choices). i plan on getting it dyno tuned but want to break the motor in first. i would like to know what i need to fix problems first. Please help me.And thanks.


Modified by blackek9 at 10:36 PM 5/27/2006

 

get it dyno tuned

 

now my problem just got worse. i just went to go start my car and it wouldn't stay started. had to give it gas to keep it running. and when i went to start driving i pressed on the gas and it didn't do anything(throttle cable not the problem). like it hesitated so bad it wouldnt rev past 1000 rpm at wide open throttle. i havent touched anything. i drove it for like an hour this morning. so now what. please please help!!

 

Are you sure your timing is right?? Maybe try a compreesion test and leakdown test? and definitly a dyno with those setup.

 

i had a problem like that and it ended up being timing. i had to constantly give me car gas to keep it idling. are you throwing any codes?

 

no codes, now you guys are saying timing. when i installed my timing belt and everthing all the marks lined up. like i said my car was running this morning pretty good. just after a while it started to stall at idle should i try adjusting distributor. and which way if it needs to be moved

 

i would honestly take it somewhere to get it tuned and checked.

 

i can't take it anywhere it won't move. zero acceleration won't rev past 1000ish rpm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcMONSTER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get it dyno tuned</TD></TR></TABLE>


anytime you do performance cams you have to get it dyno tuned.

 

get the timing right and get it tuned

 

time to go buy a timing light. but if adjusting my distributor doesn't work im going to need some more help. i understand i need to get it tuned. i was planning on that. but i first need to get it running again and then i need to break the motor in. Write??? or can i get it dyno tuned before it broken in??? help

 

you need to break it in on the dyno, otherwise you can damage your motor. When you modify your internals the air/fuel needs to be tuned and your vtec Xover point changed to compensate for the new parts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcMONSTER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need to break it in on the dyno, otherwise you can damage your motor. When you modify your internals the air/fuel needs to be tuned and your vtec Xover point changed to compensate for the new parts</TD></TR></TABLE>

bullshit. u dont need to break it in on the dyno, it is better to break it under normal load conditions

and u can *** dyno it fairly well for the time being
wide band and an vafc will work just fine

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackek9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">time to go buy a timing light. but if adjusting my distributor doesn't work im going to need some more help. i understand i need to get it tuned. i was planning on that. but i first need to get it running again and then i need to break the motor in. Write??? or can i get it dyno tuned before it broken in??? help</TD></TR></TABLE>

timming lights they r very important! GET ONE ur belt timing may be off ur dizzy maybe to far retarded or advanced. did u relash ur valves with new cams?

maybe possibly if u did all the timing right on the belts, and ur base is close. u probably have a bad oil pump


Modified by akstunt600 at 6:16 PM 5/27/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akstunt600 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

bullshit. u dont need to break it in on the dyno, it is better to break it under normal load conditions
</TD></TR></TABLE>

why so you can get improper wear, bog out and have the motor run lean/rich because it isn't tuned properly? how'd the butt dyno do for your motors without tuning?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akstunt600 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bullshit. u dont need to break it in on the dyno, it is better to break it under normal load conditions

and u can *** dyno it fairly well for the time being
wide band and an vafc will work just fine

timming lights they r very important! GET ONE ur belt timing may be off ur dizzy maybe to far retarded or advanced

maybe possibly if u did all the timing right on the belts, and ur base is close. u probably have a bad oil pump</TD></TR></TABLE>

breaking in a engine on a dyno is only needed when you have a engine different internals running off a base map thats its not tuned for, but if its a stock rebuild running off the stock ecu then you are ok to break it in on the street,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectTeG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

breaking in a engine on a dyno is only needed when you have a engine different internals running off a base map thats its not tuned for, but if its a stock rebuild running off the stock ecu then you are ok to break it in on the street,</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea if its stock, which its not. He bumped up compression a decent amount and he is also running a mild set of cams

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcMONSTER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea if its stock, which its not. He bumped up compression a decent amount and he is also running a mild set of cams</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup, not a good move on his part. im not to familiar with the effects of running lean on a fresh engine, but i do know that runing rich washes the oil from the cylinder and causes scouring.

 

he should be more worried about detonation in his motor because his has bumped the compression up but doesnt have the tuning or high lift from cams to compensate for the jump. I'm running 13:1 comp on 91 pump gas but its tuned on Hondata s200 and i have very aggressive cams with a very high lift to compensate for the higher compression and i have NO detonation/pinging

 

wow monster there is really nothing to be worried about.

look carefully he has a vafc, AND i said using a WIDEBAND the *** dyno will be suffient to further more tune the vafc after he has set a slight correction for the increased compression ratio

no leaning out or detonation will occur as long as u keep it runnin stoich it will be perfectly fine to break in that way

not only that once the motor is broken he should do just fine having somone dialing in the vafc and monitoring the afr's.

no dyno needed to gain hp here, keep in mind that MAX HP LEVELS will not be reached but just watching the afr's u should be +/- 10hp with in ur max

btw, i have dialed in many turbo b-series builds using just a vafc and a msd btm and a good wideband and hand held egt

i however, always recomend dyno tuning for turbo cars when they want to push above 280hp

 

I really appreciate all the good information, but my car stills won't rev past 1000 RPM. What do you guys think? I haven't used a timing light... I'm doing that tonight. As far as the timing belt installation, all the marks line up. The only thing that would be off would be my distributor. Thanks.

 

a timing light will let u know right away if u messed up at the belt.

even though the marks are all lined up if there is too much play on the front side of the belt u will be off 1-2 teeth

just shoot it with timing gun and if ur able to bring in to time this should solve ur problem

 

if dont have the mid timing belt cover u can put the light straight on the cam gears at 15degrees and make sure both arrows face up

 

did you set the valve lash for the cams you installed??

 

I hooked up a timing light and at around 700 RPM the mark was not lined up. I adjusted the distributor (pushed the distributor as far as it would go toward the firewall), as much as I could, and the mark still didn't line up, like it still needed to be pushed more. When I installed the timing belt, all the marks lined up, and there was no slack in the timing belt.

Edit: After I adjusted the distributor as much as I could, I was able to rev past 1000 RPM, but it hesitated.

If my timing belt marks are lined up, and my distributor is adjusted all the way, and if the mark still doesn't line up, does that mean I'm running too rich or lean? Do I need a new ECU?

I did do a valve adjustment before cranking the motor, after rebuilding.


Modified by blackek9 at 4:48 AM 5/28/2006

 

nope... its outa time just like i suspected. the timing marks can be VERY VERY decieving.

valve lash will just make the engine run poorly but do not have any MAJOR effect on timing I.E. u would still be able to get the base timing set.

u were at 15degrees? on the gun right

u can keep turning the numbers on the gun up till it lines up this will tell u how far off ur timing is normally when its off a tooth it will be about 26degrees

sounds like ur off just one tooth,