Impact gun too weak for my teg?????????
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,858
Likes: 1
From: bay area/socal, CA, USA
Ok, the 94 gsr suspension bolts are too tight for my electric impact gun....wtf. Isnt electric impact guns more powerful than air compressed ones? I really dont want to have to pay a shop to lower my car. Any suggestions on how to loosen a bolt? I tried liqued wrench, wd40 and the bolt still refuses to budge.
which bolt?
I have never had a bolt that I couldn't take off with a ratchet.
If you are talking about the top nut that holds the pillowball to the shaft, I dont think an electric impact gun has the rpms to loosen that bolt.
so if that is the bolt that you are having trouble with, use the old school allen wrench and wrench method.
I have never had a bolt that I couldn't take off with a ratchet.
If you are talking about the top nut that holds the pillowball to the shaft, I dont think an electric impact gun has the rpms to loosen that bolt.
so if that is the bolt that you are having trouble with, use the old school allen wrench and wrench method.
are you loosening the bolt or the nut?
haha i took my lca off to do my swap my friends impact gun tore it right off
soak it in wd40 overnight and if you can
find somthing called tri-flow
works 1000 times better than wd40.
soak it in wd40 overnight and if you canfind somthing called tri-flow
works 1000 times better than wd40.
I think you would be better off just taking a breaker bar to it. Try not to use any extensions with the socket if you can. Then just put a steady force on the bar. If that doesn't work, hit the bar with a hammer, and if that doesn't work, put a strong pipe on the breaker bar to get more leverage.
I have never heard of those bolts freezing or galling.
Instead of wd40 or Tri-flow(which is a teflon based lubricant so I dont know how it would have penetrating powers) try using some Liquid wrench.
I have never heard of those bolts freezing or galling.
Instead of wd40 or Tri-flow(which is a teflon based lubricant so I dont know how it would have penetrating powers) try using some Liquid wrench.
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My gun can take most bolts of too, but sometimes some bolts wont come off. I agree and suggest also a breaker bar, I use a pipe about 3 ft long put it on the end of a combo and turn slowly making sure the bolt turns so I dont snap it off. Works real good and so far havent had a problem.
I'm pretty sure air guns are stronger than electric guns. Either way, there have been many bolts I couldn't get off with my 450 ft-lb impact wrench. What I do then is either heat the surrounding metal with a torch, or use a breaker bar. I heard if you use a hammer on a breaker bar, you won't torque off the head as often....
Rpm's don't matter until the bolt is actually loose...you need torque...
I dont think an electric impact gun has the rpms to loosen that bolt.
How do you guys get the ones in the rear LCAs out with out shearing them. I have sheared a total of ALL 6 on my Ek, yes all 6 on the lca's. I had to sawzall out the damn things and pull out the bolt stubs. It sucks.
in cali we are lucky, we dont have that rear lca bolt freezing problem. At least I have never seen it.
Rpm's don't matter until the bolt is actually loose...you need torque...
A good are gun is like tak-tak-tak-tak-tak-tak-tak
and good electric gun is like tak---tak---tak---tak---tak
know what I mean, the air gun has more rpms, so it can hit the bolt with full torque quicker and more often and usually does a better job of breaking stuff loose because of it.
A good are gun is like tak-tak-tak-tak-tak-tak-tak
and good electric gun is like tak---tak---tak---tak---tak
and good electric gun is like tak---tak---tak---tak---tak
Ej6 Dx, I sheared about that amount, too. I hear using a hammer works, but I've never tried it. I think up here where it snows, we're just screwed.
I also have broken the bolts in the upper control arms in the rear. Thank god for a sawzall. That is all I can say.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,858
Likes: 1
From: bay area/socal, CA, USA
pay a shop to do it, more than likely they will **** something up and they will have to fix it
i just feel so "ameture" bringing my car to a shop and paying $50-80 for lowering my car
mine is just a reciprocating saw. I just say sawzall. I do use the sawzall brand metal blades though. It cuts. I have probably had to cut 15 or so over the years. And paying a shop is not an option. Around here it is $200 to lower a car.
How do you guys get the ones in the rear LCAs out with out shearing them. I have sheared a total of ALL 6 on my Ek, yes all 6 on the lca's. I had to sawzall out the damn things and pull out the bolt stubs. It sucks.
Mike
One of my boys was doing a clutch install and that bolt broke off in his hands. The *** that did his spring / shocks didn't know what a tq. wrench was.
you will break the head of the bolt right off. its in there for lift only 3 things you can do
1.remove the whole LCA and dont remove the shock bolt
2.snap the head off and get a ES bushing kit for the LCA
3.snap the head off and get a honda replacment bushing (pain in a$$ to replace press needed)
1.remove the whole LCA and dont remove the shock bolt
2.snap the head off and get a ES bushing kit for the LCA
3.snap the head off and get a honda replacment bushing (pain in a$$ to replace press needed)
I ran into the same problem, so I lowered the front and then had a shop cut out the bolts in the back and install new ones. After the new bolts were installed I went back home and installed the rear springs. 94 GSR.
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