It's about that time, and I've got a craving for adding '95 EX door panels to my '93 hatch.

after the search, I've read countless threads with very vague and on many occasions speculated responses without solid facts. The most common of responses stating something to the effects of " I know this one guy who..."

That gets about as repetitous as the nerdy girl in American Pie saying "and this one time in band camp..."

Anyhow,

1) Of the people that HAVE DONE IT, what advice would you give?
2) What were some of the key points that made a world of difference?
3) How was a relay used in the process?
3) do you have pics which would simplify things?

I have the EX panels and switches and will have the EX regulators and motors this weekend. (according to the threads, those are the easy parts) The headache begins with obtaining ALL factory harnesses and matching them up properly.

Any input with actual facts supporting the response would be a great help to all who are interested in the swap....


ps. I was even considering saying screw it to the factory harness mumbo jumbo, and powering up the windows via custom direct 12V power. I realy wasn't interested in the power locks or tweeter. Therefore use my Si panels, COMPOSITE FABS carbon fiber inserts for power windows, and '95 EX switches. I think it would be a much more cleaner look.

thanks in advance...

 

anyone?...

I can't possibly be the only one that wants this done?....

 

I've done it....just get the factory harnesses...eaaaasssy plug n play

 

also done it made my life easy with all the oem wiring Looks clean too

 

Well... what I want is a power passenger window for convenience for when I am driving solo. It seems to me that the easier way to accomplish this is to buy power ex doors in the right color, put them on and wire them up. I think that swapping just the window hardware would be a PITA. What color is your hatch?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EH339 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What color is your hatch?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Kinda hard, when the only other EGs that came with the same PPG yellow are in Japan....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also done it made my life easy with all the oem wiring Looks clean too</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you have pics of your interior?...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by melsers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've done it....just get the factory harnesses...eaaaasssy plug n play </TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you have pics of your interior?...


To the guys that have done it, what would you say was the most difficult part?
Were there any delays along the way?
Were you ever put in a position where after you sat there for a long time, say to yourself... "oh, is that all... damn why didn't I think of that earlier?"

thanks for the feedbacks, lets try and get some more....

 

I want this done too and too many people give vague replies like "Use the EX wiring harness".

I mean you can't just put on the EX harness, put the EJ doors in, and then bam power windows. There has to be a way to mount them, connect the wires to the ECU or wherever they're needed.

8 words isn't going to help get this done -_-

 

more info would help me out too...

 

i have done this conversion personally and it is by far one of the best oem mods i have done to my 93 si hatch. the only parts i used was the inner rails with the power actuators for both doors, inner door panel inserts for both doors, driver/pass switch, wiring from both actuators, wiring harnesses from the switches, underdash plug in harness, and pw relay.

i reuse my si door panels and use the EX inner panel because i didnt want the EX tweeter and power door lock switch. wiring is very easy and took me all of 2 hours to get everything together up and running minus the time to switch inner panels. the inner panels is what the switches mount to. all of the wiring i got is cut, so i just soldered and added new wires. ill go ahead and draw up a diagram of what i did and post it, and hopefully this thread can be archived.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicSiRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i reuse my si door panels and use the EX inner panel because i didnt want the EX tweeter and power door lock switch. </TD></TR></TABLE>

YES!!! YES!!! YES!!! that is EXACTLY how I feel!!!! SWEET!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicSiRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the inner panels is what the switches mount to. all of the wiring i got is cut, so i just soldered and added new wires. ill go ahead and draw up a diagram of what i did and post it, and hopefully this thread can be archived. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hell yeah, FINALLY someone who gets it...

CivicSiRx, you the man if you pull this off. Your info will be helping alot more than people would care to admit.

Once you've got the power window swap thing figured out, here's the frosting on the cake.... Saw these and I flipped out.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1456961&page=1

 

here ya go mang. any questions ask away.

 

up for ppl trying to figure it out, this is for 92-95 civic two door wanting to wire in power windows.

 

Now here is my question does the dash have to come off to plug in the floor harness?

 

nah, i ran the wires under the carpet. the dash doesnt have to come off. its easier then most ppl think.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MR.RED’89 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now here is my question does the dash have to come off to plug in the floor harness?
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where did you get the hardware for the doors. Everytime I go to the junkyard all the doors are either crashed or don't have power anything.

 

i got lucky and got it from a guy who totaled his car and the doors were in perfect condition.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where did you get the hardware for the doors. Everytime I go to the junkyard all the doors are either crashed or don't have power anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

great thread! think i might give it a try i'm running out of optional equipment upgrades on my cx

 

i just finished my power window/lock/mirror conversion, and ill just tell you what i did. what WORKS for a fact, and what i would have done differently.

Doors:

I got some doors from an EX for free, because they were mashed and no glass, so i took the wiring harnesses/control for locks out of them, along with the regulators, and lock hardware. This is easy, just take them out of the door. a couple 10mm bolts, the regulators come out. when you're re-installing them, make sure to to line up the new power regulator on the outside of the door skin before putting it on the inside. This will allow you to just put it in, instead of fumbling with, moving it around and around until it lines up with the power regulator holes. if switching the locks out too, its also simple.. but one pain in the *** was the door opening rod (when you pull handle, rod pushes down and opens door) to the door lock assembly.. that thing was a bitch to get out. If i had to do it over agian, id have some sort of dykes, that would seperate the rod out of its hole. (theres a little gromet that connects them, its a bitch) but other than that, takeing the hardware out, and re-installing the new regulators/locks are cake.

I would also suggest rolling the window all the way up, and duct taping it in the up position if the window falls off track, its a pain in the *** to line back up just perfect.. or at least for me it was. When you get the windows working, slowly by hand lower it in the position to bolt the window to the regulator track.

Wiring

what i did, that was NOT nessicary.... was i went to the junkyard and bought the entire EX under-dash harness. The wiring for the windows/locks and mirrors is seperate from the rest of the harness, and it can be removed without having to re-splice into anything in your new DX harness... it is also NOT part of the floor harness.... i would suggest finding the entire harness at the yard, and seperating the winow/lock mirror wiring from the rest of the harness so you dont have to pay for the whole thing. all the wiring for the windows, mirrors and locks are one harness together and they share one plug that will litterally just plug into the back of your fuse box. just loom the wires that go from one door to the fusebox, and then under the dash to the other door together, and string it where-ever you would like. I personally didnt remove the dash, just the lower dash peice, and glove box. Kind of crammed to get the plugs through the cabin and out the door, but its not bad. you will also need to ground 2 wires, which are black, its easy.

4 door plugs for the doors WORK, but have extra wires, color doesnt matter, just match up the position of each wire, with the position on the corrisponding plug. I know this because i used a 4 door plug harness on my drivers side plug that comes off the dash harness, and plugs into the door harness. Mine was cut from the 2 door, so i used a 4 door.

you will also have to wire up the 2 speaker wires for each door, its also easy, just find where the wires plug into the door harness, and plug them into the back of the dash harness connector. no re-splicing is required.

fuse's and relay needed

you will i think 4.. 20 amp fuses, and a power window relay.. preveous threads show you where to plug in the relay, but i dont know if they give you a part number... lucky for you, we dont have one at honda either. I luckily knew what it looked like, and had an extra fuse box just in case that i could plug it into. I think my cost on it was $22, so cost for you people would be around $30.

plug the fuse's in, plug in the relay, make sure you have those 2 ground wires grounded (that come off the dash harness, easily identified by BLACK wire)

then turn your key and test it out!

thats about all i can think of for now, if you have any more questions, please ask, and ill answer them the best i can hope this helps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JEM MotorSports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do you have pics of your interior?...


To the guys that have done it, what would you say was the most difficult part?
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I'll try to get some pics soon... the hardest part was extracting the harnesses out of the donor car..jeezus what a PITA

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicSiRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nah, i ran the wires under the carpet. the dash doesnt have to come off. its easier then most ppl think.

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Cool thanx bro