I think I have it figured out, but I just want to make sure that I understand completely. Crvtec.com says about the PCV system on the b20vtec setup, " I was gonna drill and tap a 3/8 inch pipe thread into the block around the same place there is a hole on the b16 blocks.. then you could plumb in a barb fitting for use with your catch can." So here is my b20 block...

I looked at my buddy's spare b16 block last night to see where the barb sticks out of it for for the pcv system and this is the corresponding surface on the b20 block (circled in red). So this is where i will drill and tap for a 3/8 barb, and then do a catch can setup. Anybody have any objections. If so, let me know before my Black & Decker gets ahold of my block.
BTW, any catch can brand suggestions? Moroso is like $65 through Jegs.


[Modified by Jeff C, 11:21 PM 4/12/2002]


[Modified by Jeff C, 11:24 PM 4/12/2002]


[Modified by Jeff C, 11:43 PM 4/12/2002]

 

check this site, it show the builup of a crvtec: http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/b20vtec/b20vtec.html
Doesn't metion anything about pcv though???

 

Jeff C

Why don't you just use the Endyn kit It's fool poof http://www.theoldone.com




[Modified by rolow, 3:21 PM 4/13/2002]

 

Jeff
here is the direct link http://www.theoldone.com/components/breather/

 

Thanks rolow, I was wondering where I had seen that. I know how to do the catch can setup, and I can put a kit together a whole lot cheaper then that. I think that this kit just improves existing pcv systems though, which I do not have. What I am wanting to know is where to put the pcv/catch can setup on the b20 block because on the stock b20 the pcv was on the valve cover, which I am not using. Judging by the b16 block I looked at, the area I have circled on the photo should be ok to use. Also, would it be better or worse to do the same thing (drill and tap 3/8 hole for barb) just right of the upper alt. bracket and then run the two lines together then to the catch can. Any body know where I can see pictues of what I am talking about, a picture is worth a thousand words, or can tell me that I am on the right train of thought.
Am I making sense?

 

Here you go check these out. This is a B20.

 

You may not want to go this way, but it worked for me on my LS/VTEC. I am running a 1997 LS block and it also has a PCV valve in the valve cover. I drilled a hole in the back of my B16 valve cover, installed the LS PCV grommet, and ran the PCV hose and PCV valve there. I also welded a baffle inside the valve cover to prevent the PCV valve from sucking raw oil from the valvetrain. The engine does not burn oil and the PCV system works fine. Just an alternative you could consider.


[Modified by b19coupe, 8:13 PM 4/13/2002]


[Modified by b19coupe, 8:13 PM 4/13/2002]

 

 

Jeff the Endyn kit uses the two stock plugs on both sides of the oil filter
you pull them out and put in the endyn fitting and then run hoses from them to the catch can and then you cap off the top of the catch can with a grommet and pcv supplied in the kit it was made just for the b20 vtec set up
I use the kit on my b20 because it was fully assembled so I did not have the option to drill like you
theres alot of other threads about this but archives are gone
hope this helps
I don't know much about the other way you mentioned





[Modified by rolow, 8:52 PM 4/13/2002]

 

OT: Does anyone know what pipe the red arrow is directly pointing at? I need to buy one for my b20 but I don't know what its called. It looks like a return line but for what?

 

hmmm, id call it the MAIN COOLANT RETURN LINE

don't forget the new o-rings...

(i'd call them the MAIN COOLANT RETURN LINE O-RINGS)

i really HTH,

t..

 

Paul Walker,
Thanks for the pics. They gave me the confidence that I needed. This is probably the way I will do mine.

b19coupe,
I had pondered your way also, but was not sure how it would look. I does not look bad at all, thanks for the pic. This would definately be the cheapest way and I have not completely ruled it out yet. Does not having a catch can effect anything? As far as welding the baffle, is the valve cover aluminum?

rolow,
Thanks for saying something because I was misunderstanding how the kit worked. Not drilling into the block is appealing, but like you said since I have it apart I probably will.

Thanks for the tech support guys.

 

hey.. you know those nipples.. they can be bought from the dealer. They are an old prelude oil cooler jet.. Ill try to find the part number. Dont waste your money on an Endyn one.

 

"and put in the endyn fitting"

Endyn didnt make ****.. They just ordered a bunch of them from the dealer and got people to think they manufactured it. Save your money and get them from the dealer.. Here is the part number. Hope this helps..

11107-pk2-003
12207-634-300 crush washer

all Larry did was buy a moroso can, couple of those nipples and hoses and clamps from home depot and charge a lil extra for profit and calls it "The Endyn breather kit" It is a good product though but overpriced..

 

mingchi96,
Thanks for the post. I am heading to Home Depot to see what I can find. BTW, great dyno chart numbers. Hope I get near those.

 

Paul Walker,

What size tap did you use for the threads for the coolant fitting going in to the back of the block for the oil cooler?

Is it a 16 X 1.5?

-kenji

 

hey Jeff C,
...umm...i heard you shouldNT "t-off" the block with your oil-line like you have in your picture...on my car the oil-line goes straight out and the sensor is on the 't'....thats just what i heard and have on my car...im sure it has soemthing to do with oil flow...

 

I think what you are referring to is that people suggest not to have the oil sending unit off the T because the extra weight of it and the vibration of the motor could cause potential oil leeks. Is that what you mean?

Anyways, I have a Autometer oil pressure guage and the sending unit is on the fire wall. So far, approaching 10k miles and no problems yet.