The guy I bought my bike from was a large mountain man from WV who did all his own work so I assumed he had the preload worked out. After a year a half I've begun to question if he did in fact know what he was doing, if he even thought to adjust them in the first place. I didn't know enough to ask when I bought the bike so now I'm left wondering.

So a few questions...

-What should I be looking for as I test each new setting? I know only to adjust front or rear at one time but what defines just "okay" from the "sweet spot"? I come from a world where race cars have as little give as possible and 1000 lb spring rates aren't uncommon. Obviously too much compression is bad but how stiff is too stiff?

-Where should I start, front or back? I'm pretty sure the notorious nose dive the cheapo forks on the SV cause won't go entirely away but I'm certain there's something to be gained there. Start there maybe?

-SV650 specific settings are 0-5 front and 1-7 rear with 0 front and 7 rear being the stiffest... so much for making them consistent. Anyone out there who has/had an SV, what were you running? (Rider weight would probably help here.)

-Is this something I should consider changing during 2 up riding? My wife is barely 100 lbs but I gotta think that makes a difference with my *** on the bike too.

 

Do sv's have just preload or are there compression and rebound adjusters as well?

 

Preload will only help so much. If you're like me (hunka hunka burnin' love), then you'll want upgraded springs (forks and shock).

Do you notice the bike is hard to turn? Or that it likes to run wide on turns? Then you'll want to raise the rear ride height or up the rear preload. Or, lower the triple (bring the forks up through the tree) to accomplish the same goal. This will lower your overall cornering clearance, however.

The sweet spot is dependent on your own riding ability. Sometimes the settings you have work great for a certain speed, but at higher speeds you'll find the bike is a bit more unstable. Typically it allows you the most feedback from the road surface without upsetting the bike's balance and handling. Fast (enough) turn-in without instability in the turn.

When I take my wife, I have preload 2nd from stiffest setting. Otherwise, 4th from stiffest for just riding and 3rd from stiffest for canyon strafing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marmaladeboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(hunka hunka burnin' love)</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RebornGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do sv's have just preload or are there compression and rebound adjusters as well?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just preload.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marmaladeboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you notice the bike is hard to turn? Or that it likes to run wide on turns?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It does seem to want to understeer at times but I always assumed that was me being a ***** and not leaning far enough. I know springs are probably the best answer but will adding more preload to the forks help soften the nose dive under hard braking?

I did manage to find the seller's email address and get ahold of him. He said he didn't touch the suspension so I may go a few "clicks" stiffer and see how that treats me.

 

How bad is the nose dive? More preload makes the spring act like there is more of a load on it - it will help a little bit, but getting springs matched for your weight will be the biggest change (especially if the SV comes undersprung to begin with).

If you're running wide in turns, then you need to: a) hang off more, b) add more preload to the rear (in lieu of upgrading the suspension).

But definitely play with the suspension and see where that gets you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marmaladeboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How bad is the nose dive?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It obviously is dependent on how hard I brake but it's considerable under harder braking or when I have a passenger.

The bike is currently at stock setup so I make add a click or two to the front and one to the back and see what that does for me.

 

I went one click stiffer on the front and I'm certain it can take more.

 

'tis better now?

 

Have you thought about putting in some heavier fork oil? This is normally one of the first susp mods sv peeps do and helps considerably with the notorious nose dive. 20wt and go from there, I know some people that are running 30wt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backlash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you thought about putting in some heavier fork oil? This is normally one of the first susp mods sv peeps do and helps considerably with the notorious nose dive. 20wt and go from there, I know some people that are running 30wt.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Certainly a consideration of mine but I'd likely pay someone to do it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Apocalypse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Certainly a consideration of mine but I'd likely pay someone to do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you have a front stand that lifts from the steering stem? It's not that hard to do. Cheap mod to do, but not so cheap if you have to pay a shop to do it though. I'm sure you have seen it, but check out the tips and tricks section of svrider. GL

 

How's the suspension working?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marmaladeboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How's the suspension working?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I moved a click on the front but think I can go another. It's been ~90° here for the last few days and I don't do that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Apocalypse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I moved a click on the front but think I can go another. It's been ~90° here for the last few days and I don't do that. </TD></TR></TABLE>
LMAO

I hear ya on the heat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Apocalypse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's been ~90° here for the last few days and I don't do that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Stop being a bitch and ride!

RJ - who put 450 miles on his turd in the past few 90 deg days

 

if you go fast enough, its better than AC

 

Sweaty *****.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">RJ - who put 450 miles on his turd in the past few 90 deg days</TD></TR></TABLE>

::cookie::

Your other vehicle is a gas guzzling truck, are we supposed to be proud of you?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .paul &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you go fast enough, its better than AC </TD></TR></TABLE>

My 8 minute commute doesn't allow me to go fast enough for that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Apocalypse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
are we supposed to be proud of you?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn right you are.

Where's my gold star?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Damn right you are.

Where's my gold star?</TD></TR></TABLE>



and you can go fast enuf, wear shorts for sweaty *****

 

While I'm thinking about it... why should I wear jeans to work just so I can ride the 4 miles? It's not worth 8 hours of jeans for that 8 minutes on my bike... and I'm not going to commute in shorts or change when I get to work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Apocalypse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why should I wear jeans to work just so I can ride the 4 miles? It's not worth 8 hours of jeans for that 8 minutes on my bike... </TD></TR></TABLE>

So, are you saying you should drive to work instead?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, are you saying you should drive to work instead?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it means the difference between sweating my *** off gearing up, which takes just as long as the commute, commuting and then wearing jeans to work or riding in AC wearing shorts then yes, my *** is driving.

I guess I'm just not as cool as you 'cause I don't ride every single mile I have the opportunity to.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Apocalypse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess I'm just not as cool as you 'cause I don't ride every single mile I have the opportunity to.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well my commute is 17 miles each way... and whatever other errands and stops I make in the afternoon I'll often do 50-80 miles in a day. If my commute were 4 miles each way, I'd probably wouldnt bother either. And on those "sweaty *****" days, if I had a car that got reasonable gas mileage, I'd probably take it. But I dont, so I just go in really early to beat the heat and deal with the heat on the way home.