i have b18b with stock internals and i was seeing if anyone on here has done a ls/vtec setup on stock internals and how it went how long it lasted, and did it make a big differance putting a vtec head on and opions
on doing the head swap was it worth it thanks and yes i know i should search

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91cleancrxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have b18b with stock internals and i was seeing if anyone on here has done a ls/vtec setup on stock internals and how it went how long it lasted, and did it make a big differance putting a vtec head on and opions
on doing the head swap was it worth it thanks and yes i know i should search </TD></TR></TABLE>

It will last as long as you keep LS rev limit...

Use ARP rodstuds if you want to rev past 8k

 

its worth it over a stock ls motor of course. I have a ls/vtec with stock crank and rods, using p30 pistons. Using a B16 head. The ls blocks don't come with sufficient lubrication past 7k rpm, they say its not recommended to rev it out. But on the other hand u don't live in the 7-9k rpm area.
i rev my beast to 8500rpm all day on 94 pump gas, its been 1 yr and it survived the dyno and everyday driving. ARP rodstuds are extremely recommended

gl on build if u decide to go through with it

 

quick99 do u have a gsr gridle most ppl do for insurance but yea arp rod stud great

 

no girdle, talked to some builders and they said its not really needed, unless ur passing the 9k rpm mark, i'm only pushing the 8.5k mark. But its always good to have it if u got the extra moneyz

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quick99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its worth it over a stock ls motor of course. I have a ls/vtec with stock crank and rods, using p30 pistons. Using a B16 head. The ls blocks don't come with sufficient lubrication past 7k rpm, they say its not recommended to rev it out. But on the other hand u don't live in the 7-9k rpm area.
i rev my beast to 8500rpm all day on 94 pump gas, its been 1 yr and it survived the dyno and everyday driving. ARP rodstuds are extremely recommended

gl on build if u decide to go through with it </TD></TR></TABLE>

It is not worth it at all to leave the LS block completely stock. The LS piston valve reliefs are too small and don't give enough clearance for the bigger vtec valves. If anything larger than GSR cams are used piston to valve contact will result. ALWAYS use vtec pistons in an lsvtec if you want it to last. Also LS blocks allow for plently of oiling if the LS oil pump is swapped for an ITR oil pump. This is also a must for a reliable lsvtec build.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quick99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no girdle, talked to some builders and they said its not really needed, unless ur passing the 9k rpm mark, i'm only pushing the 8.5k mark. But its always good to have it if u got the extra moneyz </TD></TR></TABLE>

There is no point spending the money on a block girdle. Our 10 sec. ETD/Vibrant AM race car revs out to 10500 rpm with no girdle and no issues. With proper clearances and correect oil pressure the girdle proves to be nothing but a waste of time and money. GL