I'm going a swap for a kid into his EG 4door with the Hasport mount kit. I have the rear mount, and the driver's side mount completed, bet when I lift the pass, side to bolt the mount in, the tranny hits on the frame rail. It will not go any higher, and if I could wedge it with a pry bar, it would be really far from lining up the bolt holes. THe was nothing the instruction from Hasport about denting the framerail, but it apears that is what must be done, but it is gonna have to be a good sized dent, I'm contemplating getting my friend's plasma cutter and notching the frame to clear. It is just a small tiny nub on the tranny that is hanging the whole works up. Has anyone else ran into this? BTW I've searched for an hour now.

 

I've heard of people just hammering the frame rail a bit for clearance. Seems that's what you'll have to do as well.

 

you have to notch the frame rail with the newer hasport H22 kit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrueZen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've heard of people just hammering the frame rail a bit for clearance. Seems that's what you'll have to do as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Right, but I'm affriad it needs more than a bit of clearence, it needs about a 1/2"! Besides that, it was a royal pain to get it in this far. I would hate to pull it back out, just to beat the frame. Man this sucks. I hate, egs, and I hate H22s more this was just a ridiculous swap that I souldn't have done. This motor belongs in a larger car. I think I might be able to fit my sawzall in there and notch it. I could probally cut on each side, and then jack the motor up to crush the metal back. That might work. I'll do it far enough out so I can plate it back in, on the sides.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have to notch the frame rail with the newer hasport H22 kit. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Great glad they changed their instructions to show that. For them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Great glad they changed their instructions to show that. For them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Darkknight ran into the same issue, he posted some pics a while back.

 

Yeah my buddy just called me back, he is at Hasport right now, and he asked Joe, and Joe said the new mounts you have to notch the frame. I'm so excited, yippie!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah my buddy just called me back, he is at Hasport right now, and he asked Joe, and Joe said the new mounts you have to notch the frame. I'm so excited, yippie! </TD></TR></TABLE>

yep, Brian G from hasport confrimed the same thing a while back here on HT.

 

People have to realize this is a much arger motor, never designed for these smaller chassis'. Sacrifices must be made, but they are always worth it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bserious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">People have to realize this is a much arger motor, never designed for these smaller chassis'. Sacrifices must be made, but they are always worth it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep, the newer kit was to create more clearance for the PS and AC components.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yep, the newer kit was to create more clearance for the PS and AC components.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was told it was to help with driveline angles. Either way, I notched the frame. The motor is in, and now I'm onto the wiring. I don't know why people use these engines it is entirely to hard to work on in this car. I'm putting a K in my crx as soon as I'm done with this, and my roll cage I'm building for my Samurai. The K swap seems to be a much better fit. This stinking H22 was a shoehorn operation for sure.

 

this h-series is also about to be the best thing you've ever done for your car! for k-series!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thahuhstunna &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this h-series is also about to be the best thing you've ever done for your car! for k-series!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you on crack?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you on crack?</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^are you?

 

So you are saying H&gt;K? The numbers beg to differ. K series a much more proven, andrefined mill, in every aspect. They have not yet tapped out these engines out yet either, there is still power left on the plate. Either you know somethng I don't know, or your talking outa your ***.

 

price and hp of h &gt;X2 price and hp of k

I did my eg h sedan swap when the egh1 kit was still available through Hasport, didn't run into a single problem, but it was also my third swap w the same h22. . .

Why didn't you do the wiring before dropping the motor in, and thought life was hard before!! extending the necessary wires laying on your back or hunched over SUX

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22chilton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">price and hp of h &gt;X2 price and hp of k

I did my eg h sedan swap when the egh1 kit was still available through Hasport, didn't run into a single problem, but it was also my third swap w the same h22. . .

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Price is not a concern in my crx, to an extent. Weight on the other hand is. BEsides that I would like to built it later on, and it has more support than a H in the aftermarket, not to mention it is new, and products are constantly being developed.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22chilton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why didn't you do the wiring before dropping the motor in, and thought life was hard before!! extending the necessary wires laying on your back or hunched over SUX</TD></TR></TABLE>

Most of the wiring on this engine seems to be on the top of the engine, and I will do all of the mods outside of the car, and then apply it after final preparation. Thats what I always do the first time I do a swap. If I did it before I would have wired it first, and had it all figured out beforehand. I'll test it unloomed, before I consider it good, and then loom it up. This thing has a ton of room underneeth anyway. I'm used to b swapped crxes,a nd this has allot more room than that. it is the width that kills it.