As far as performance is concerned in Auto-x, how is Victracer V700 compared to other R comp tires?

I believe that Victracer V700 has less tread wear than other R comps which would mean that its kind of OK to drive to the track once in a while

Bbut how does to compare from a pure performance stand point?

I am specifically talking about Victracer V700 in 205 50 15 for an Integra

 

anyone

 

They behave very similarly to Toyo RA-1s on a road course. I've never auto crossed on them, though.

 

I had the 225 45 15 V700's. I didn't like them. The main reason was because they liked to actually skip across the surface as opposed to slide. This was on my Integra. But several BMW drivers I've talked to loved them. And this was all autocrossing btw.

Compared to the SO4 Hoosier....The Hoosier was a faster/better tire but they were temperature ******. If it's not warm out, they will not heat up. 65* or warmer at least. And your first run even if it is warm out will be your warm up run.


Compared to the 710's. My fastest runs with the 710's have been my first ones. This tire is all about controlling their temperature. After the first run the front tires need to be cooled after EVERY run and cooled right before each run as well. Very very predictable tires. And the wear factor is easily less than 1/2 of the Hoosier.


I have not owned the Victoracers but from what I've been told they are better than the V700.

 

Not by much. Treadwear rating is only 50. The V710's are 30. The RA-1's are higher.

Kumho states the V700's MUST be shaved to 3/32 - 4/32 if used in the dry.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schumi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as performance is concerned in Auto-x, how is Victracer V700 compared to other R comp tires? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I had some Victoracers for track use for a while. They were shaved and heat cycled before I put them on.

They were fine, but compared to RA1, IMHO, they go away a little too quickly. When I say that I am not complaining about the life of the compound as much as I'm commenting on the perception that you can actually notice that they're going away in the middle of a sprint session...and that's the end of them.

The RA1 last a long time, and they go away more gradually, giving you time to get used to a slightly different level of grip and perhaps allowing you to compensate with a slightly different driving style.

I know I'm an amateur, but I got the feeling the Victoracers just up and said, "OK, we're done, now. No, we mean <u>right</u> now."

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I know I'm an amateur, but I got the feeling the Victoracers just up and said, "OK, we're done, now. No, we mean <u>right</u> now."</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good point about track use....but may have consistent feeling and performance on a typical 40 sec auto-x course???

 

I ran the V700 on my Integra a few years ago, when I was at the point of wanting to autox on r-compounds, but not wanting to shell out the money for V710 or Hoosiers.

It's very much 'you get what you pay for'. The V700 lasts longer than the v710, and is slower on the course. Given equal cars/drivers, the V700 is never going to beat the V710 or Hoosier, IMO.

FWIW, I run the V710 now in competition. But for test-n-tunes, schools, or just general playing around, I pick up used Toyo RA1s. Lots of road racers get rid of these after 1 race, and you can get them for under $100 a set with lots of autox runs left in them. 205-50-15 is the Spec-Miata size, so there are lots of them around. IMO the RA1 is about equal to the V700: r-compund performance, last forever, but not as quick as the V710.

As for driving to an event, I've street driven the RA1s for short distances in the dry, and the V700s should be similar. No way on the 710s, though. Changing tires at the event is really the way to go, though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bender &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ran the V700 on my Integra a few years ago, when I was at the point of wanting to autox on r-compounds, but not wanting to shell out the money for V710 or Hoosiers.

It's very much 'you get what you pay for'. The V700 lasts longer than the v710, and is slower on the course. Given equal cars/drivers, the V700 is never going to beat the V710 or Hoosier, IMO.

FWIW, I run the V710 now in competition. But for test-n-tunes, schools, or just general playing around, I pick up used Toyo RA1s. Lots of road racers get rid of these after 1 race, and you can get them for under $100 a set with lots of autox runs left in them. 205-50-15 is the Spec-Miata size, so there are lots of them around. IMO the RA1 is about equal to the V700: r-compund performance, last forever, but not as quick as the V710.

As for driving to an event, I've street driven the RA1s for short distances in the dry, and the V700s should be similar. No way on the 710s, though. Changing tires at the event is really the way to go, though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey, tell me where i can get ahold of some of these used RA1s

 

Just for a little clarification the Victoracer V700 is commonly just called the "Victoracer" and the Ecsta V700 is commonly called the "V700". I don't believe I have ever heard anyone use the full name "Victoracer V700".

The Victoracer tires are an old tire and compound. Newer compounds and designs have made the Victoracer an obsolete tire. It was never as fast as the Hoosier A3S03 and is certainly slower than the new V710. You can drive any r-comp to events but you're going to be adding heat cycles to the tires which will shorten the useful life of the rubber. Additionally if you're at the wear bars they are technically illegal to use on public roads.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xtremeazian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, tell me where i can get ahold of some of these used RA1s </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd say ask around at the closest road racing track to you, especially one that runs Spec Miata or Honda Challenge races.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bender &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'd say ask around at the closest road racing track to you, especially one that runs Spec Miata or Honda Challenge races.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I need to get on this too. As far as tires for autox, I run RA-1's and was thinking of going with V710's this year but the RA-1's last longer and dont cost as much. I also Autox with multiple clubs so I cant afford more than one set of tires a year. Everyone I have talked to with Victoracers loves them but it seems like the best top times are drivers with V710's or Hoosiers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91 HONDAsaurus rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I need to get on this too. As far as tires for autox, I run RA-1's and was thinking of going with V710's this year but the RA-1's last longer and dont cost as much. I also Autox with multiple clubs so I cant afford more than one set of tires a year. Everyone I have talked to with Victoracers loves them but it seems like the best top times are drivers with V710's or Hoosiers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm in the exact same boat. Another factor for me is that about a third of our events are in the rain, so it makes sense to run RA-1s if you only have one set of race tires. They definitely kick *** in the wet.

 

I have been afraid to race my RA-1's in the rain but had the chance about 2 weeks ago. I spun out 3 times trying to get my settings right on my new suspension(a little too stiff in the back). I figure they should do good in the rain unshaved for R-Compound tires.

 

The RA-1 in the rain really depends on the tread depth. It comes from the factory with 8/32" of tread depth, and it's great in rain when it's new. When you get down to 4/32", the lateral tread grooves disappear, and you are only left with the circumferential tread grooves. From that point on, it sucks in the rain because it no longer has those lateral grooves to move the water to the edges and reduce the risk of hydroplaning.

Also, the only purpose of the directionality of the RA-1 is for shedding water in this way. So when they're down to the circumferential grooves only, you can rotate them to the opposite side of the car to even out the treadwear (even without flipping them on the rims, although you can do that too if you want).