okay well,
every 2 days for 2 weeks (which is 2 full cans worth) i have been soaking ALL the suspension components in L4 liquid wrench in forsight of my Koni Yellow sport w/H&R race springs.

i hit the rear lca bolt with a 280 or 380 (cant quite remember which one) ft-lbs @ 90psi impact gun with a 30 gallon tank that was kept at 120psi and the ****** didnt budge

so i went to get the torch...didnt want to heat it up too much since it IS in a bushing and yet nothing.

now what do i do?

as far as i can cee i have choices:

-get new LCAs and bolts and whatnot (booo....more money )

-cut off said bolt and get new bushings pressed in (booooo more money again)

-try a breaker bar and a 7 foot pipe i have laying around (this is my DD, breaking the bolt would be disaster)

perhaps more? i duno, what do i do HT?

 

heat it up, and get a new bushing. I had to do this befor, and you can press it in yourself if you have the time and pateince.

 

humm... PB blaster worked wonders for me. but then again you are up north and the bolts are probably corroded

im afraid youre going to have to do what sohcvtec1995 suggested

 

oh god....dont feel like paying for new bushings

 

they are not that expensive. its like 20 bucks. I dont remember

 

omni power LCA are 95 shipped....add some bling to ur ride. Are all three bolts frozen solid?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeadEnd9009 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">omni power LCA are 95 shipped....add some bling to ur ride. Are all three bolts frozen solid?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no idea, only tried the strut bolt

 

try the other two, see if they budge. If they do, u can slap on those omnis for pretty cheap.....wor case comes u just sawzall the bolt on the other side and punch the bolt out. If you are careful, i dont think u'd damage the bushing.

 

i had that happen to me once and i drilled the bolt out and replaced the bushing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gold_ef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had that happen to me once and i drilled the bolt out and replaced the bushing</TD></TR></TABLE>

how long did it take to drill it out? they are like grade 8 bolts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeadEnd9009 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try the other two, see if they budge. If they do, u can slap on those omnis for pretty cheap.....wor case comes u just sawzall the bolt on the other side and punch the bolt out. If you are careful, i dont think u'd damage the bushing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The bolts are like $10 ea. from Honda. I was able to Drill them out with out any problems as well. Took a long time though, but the only thing i had to buy was the two bolts from honda.

 

If your putting on new shocks and springs i suggest getting a cut off wheel and having at your shock (if you dont mind never selling it). Take off each side of the leg and remove the shock. Next have at it with the bolt. This way with the shock out of the way youll be able to take the bolt head off without damaging the bushing.

You have this option or the new lower control arm one or the drilling forever one.

 

just use PB blaster man. put a wrench on there and hold on to the trailing arm and kick it with your feet. if anything use a spinning tool with disc and kinda chop where the bolt head meets the lca to loosen it then spray pb blaster inside. also i hope you are spraying pb blaster on the other side too where the bolt comes out...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeadEnd9009 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">omni power LCA are 95 shipped....</TD></TR></TABLE>

When that bolt locked up (and eventually broke) on the rear LCA on my DD, I just went to the junkyard and picked up the entire SHOCK/STRUT/LCA assembly for $40. Problem solved.
But I also took out the strut-to-lca bolt off the one from the junkyard and replaced it with a new one to help avoid this problem in the future.

 

I had the same problem, but I did something pretty stupid to get it off. I put a jack underneath the breaker bar to use the car's own weight to torque the bolt loose. First time I did it, it BROKE the 1/2" drive on my breaker bar. The metal just twisted off like play dough. I spent about 15 minutes staring at it in disbelief, then got a new one under the lifetime warranty. Next attempt was successful.

*I'd be careful trying this though, because if that jack slips, a lot of force is going to be unleashed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZeeSix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem, but I did something pretty stupid to get it off. I put a jack underneath the breaker bar to use the car's own weight to torque the bolt loose. First time I did it, it BROKE the 1/2" drive on my breaker bar. The metal just twisted off like play dough. I spent about 15 minutes staring at it in disbelief, then got a new one under the lifetime warranty. Next attempt was successful.

*I'd be careful trying this though, because if that jack slips, a lot of force is going to be unleashed. </TD></TR></TABLE>

AND the fact that the bolt head will likely snap..i have a 1/2" breaker and a huge pipe i could use to do that buuuuut, is it really worth snapping the bolt in my DD?

 

yeah if you ewver wanna get those shocks and springs on. when ever i put stuff on t he bottom of my car i bring a sawzall, breaker bar, cut off tool, torch. If it doesnt come off I just start breakin ****.