Just bought an 01 accord coupe
Hi all i recently purchased a honda accord and have a few questions about it. First of all is there anyway to tell wether or not it is an EX. There is othing on the back like other hondas, its pretty damn loaded though its got a sunroof 6 speakers 6cd changer power everything, just no leather. I looked under the hood, the abs system would appear to be 4 wheel abs its got something that appears to be an abs system with 6 lines two of them run into the master the other four go to the wheels of course.
Ive been working on cars for quite a while i even work down at an autoshop when i have some spare time, but most of my experince is on american cars so hondas and ecu's and non nautrual asperation are 100% new to me. The only other car i owend that was an import was a 93 mitsibishi diamnte and i never did anything to that car except change the oil. Imports are a little scary to me.
Anyways the honda i bought has an f23a4 2.3l i4, wich i think is the same as an a1 or maybe an a5 except for my vtec plate is green and has a feature called ULEV or wich is some **** california emessions ****. and unfourtantely i had to buy it on the spur of a moment after i killed the tranny in my jeep and decided i wasnt going to fix the pos anymore, so its an auto accord
. I went with a honda becuase there rock solid reliable, the reason i work at a shop and manage to avoid japanese cars, becuase they never break down
. And hondas are hella gas effiecent wich is needed in CA with 91 oct being 40 dollars a gallon.
Anyways i want to beef it up just wanted some opions on what i should buy and install, unfourtantelly i cant build my block with low compression pistons and rods for a hi psi turbo becuase california emessions sucks i cant change my car at all really so i need to go all bolt on. Im thinking about going at first with just some AEM underdrive pullies an AEM v2 and an HKS superdrag exahaust. Also a 70mm skunk2 throttle body, and an APEXi AFC II with vtec controller. Will this stuff make my car considerably faster with a dynotune? Also anyone tried out alumium fly wheels ive heard they give you a rough ride are they really worth the power on a daily driver? And lastly im thinki9ng about going forced induction over NA, Im not quite sure if i should buy a thomas knight belt driven turbo, not sure if any of you 6th gen people have checked into this option its basically a super charger that you have to build all the piping for its 6 psi works on a stock engine, nice option when theres not much else available. Im also looking maybe a Turbonetics turbo kit with at 6 or 7psi. Is going aftermarket forced induction a bad idea? I mean i feel comftorable with my mechanical skills im not afraid of setting it up wrong or anything but besides the kit or the super im not to sure what else i need to do to my fuel system im guessing a new pump bigger injectos and maybe even the AEM high volume fuel rail, then i need to have it dynoed. But with a turbo when i have it dynoed will the injectors only squirt more gas when the turbo spools, or will i just always be running retartedly rich even when im not using boost? Oh and i was also wondering if a new k series type r is a good swap and if anyone knows where to get a crate(not really sure if i wanna do that though with 29k on the engine just curious)
Last question i have is does anyone know where the hell a trustworthy good dyno place is in so cal, i mean like one who will buy you a new engine if they blow yours and wont tune your car to **** out after a few thousand miles? Im willing to drive i live in the palm springs area.
Thank you in advance, im very excited to get to work on my honda, im not trying to build a 10 second car or anything just a fun car to drive on the feeways of socal, and something to get me into imports so when i can afford an infinti g35 i dont blow it up.
Ive been working on cars for quite a while i even work down at an autoshop when i have some spare time, but most of my experince is on american cars so hondas and ecu's and non nautrual asperation are 100% new to me. The only other car i owend that was an import was a 93 mitsibishi diamnte and i never did anything to that car except change the oil. Imports are a little scary to me.
Anyways the honda i bought has an f23a4 2.3l i4, wich i think is the same as an a1 or maybe an a5 except for my vtec plate is green and has a feature called ULEV or wich is some **** california emessions ****. and unfourtantely i had to buy it on the spur of a moment after i killed the tranny in my jeep and decided i wasnt going to fix the pos anymore, so its an auto accord
. I went with a honda becuase there rock solid reliable, the reason i work at a shop and manage to avoid japanese cars, becuase they never break down
. And hondas are hella gas effiecent wich is needed in CA with 91 oct being 40 dollars a gallon.Anyways i want to beef it up just wanted some opions on what i should buy and install, unfourtantelly i cant build my block with low compression pistons and rods for a hi psi turbo becuase california emessions sucks i cant change my car at all really so i need to go all bolt on. Im thinking about going at first with just some AEM underdrive pullies an AEM v2 and an HKS superdrag exahaust. Also a 70mm skunk2 throttle body, and an APEXi AFC II with vtec controller. Will this stuff make my car considerably faster with a dynotune? Also anyone tried out alumium fly wheels ive heard they give you a rough ride are they really worth the power on a daily driver? And lastly im thinki9ng about going forced induction over NA, Im not quite sure if i should buy a thomas knight belt driven turbo, not sure if any of you 6th gen people have checked into this option its basically a super charger that you have to build all the piping for its 6 psi works on a stock engine, nice option when theres not much else available. Im also looking maybe a Turbonetics turbo kit with at 6 or 7psi. Is going aftermarket forced induction a bad idea? I mean i feel comftorable with my mechanical skills im not afraid of setting it up wrong or anything but besides the kit or the super im not to sure what else i need to do to my fuel system im guessing a new pump bigger injectos and maybe even the AEM high volume fuel rail, then i need to have it dynoed. But with a turbo when i have it dynoed will the injectors only squirt more gas when the turbo spools, or will i just always be running retartedly rich even when im not using boost? Oh and i was also wondering if a new k series type r is a good swap and if anyone knows where to get a crate(not really sure if i wanna do that though with 29k on the engine just curious)
Last question i have is does anyone know where the hell a trustworthy good dyno place is in so cal, i mean like one who will buy you a new engine if they blow yours and wont tune your car to **** out after a few thousand miles? Im willing to drive i live in the palm springs area.
Thank you in advance, im very excited to get to work on my honda, im not trying to build a 10 second car or anything just a fun car to drive on the feeways of socal, and something to get me into imports so when i can afford an infinti g35 i dont blow it up.
Sunroof, four wheel disk brakes, and alloy wheels, would make it an EX, i'm sure. The only thing I would advise you to keep an eye on is the transmission. Change the fluid often, and only use Honda ATF-Z1. You can only get it from the dealer. Welcome to H-T.
Sounds like it's an ex
I second that on the transmission and actually if you are under 100k honda should fix anything that goes wrong with the tranny due to the fact that are failing more than average.
I second that on the transmission and actually if you are under 100k honda should fix anything that goes wrong with the tranny due to the fact that are failing more than average.
Ya i read the sticky FAQ here, the accord book says 75k or 100k tranny fluid changes what do you recommend? Ya i have four wheel discs and alloy rims i just wanna know if its an ex so im postive i have abs. Also im not sure if im to worried about the tranny itll give me an excuse to do a 5 speed manual swap.
Yes, it has abs. And I would change the trans fluid every 30,000 miles, at least check it every now and then to see if it's dirty or burnt smelling.
Moonroofs only came with EX trims and the later Special Editions. (I don't remember if the SEs came back out in 01 or 02.)
ABS + 4-wheel disc brakes was a factory option for LX models, so there are a few LX models with ABS. Very rare though. SE models did not have ABS or 4-wheel discs.
The 6-disc in-dash CD changer was only available on the EX.
Alloy rims standard on EX and SE trims. Again, I'm not sure if the SEs came back out in 01 or 02. I should add that the EX and SE rims are different...
I believe the auto-off headlights were only on the EX models. The switch/stalk looks exactly the same, but if you leave your headlights on, and close the doors, the headlights should turn off about 15 seconds after the dome light completely fades off.
Based on this, and with a little reasoning, I'm quite certain you have an EX. The F23A4 is just the Cali-emissions version of the F23A1. The F23A5 motor came in the DX trim.
I'm not going to go into what is necessary for a turbo kit quite yet, because there's something I'd like to point out. The auto trannies are notorious for going bad in these cars. (More so with the V6, but it still happens frequently with the 4-cyl.) Anyway, this is why people immediately suggest frequent tranny fluid changes. Now, what that also means is that if you turbo your Accord, you also raise the risk of having your tranny go out. Now, before someone comes in here trying to say, "well so-and-so did it and he didn't have any problems", yes there are a few people who have not had any problems. On the other hand, there are more than just a few who did have problems.
ABS + 4-wheel disc brakes was a factory option for LX models, so there are a few LX models with ABS. Very rare though. SE models did not have ABS or 4-wheel discs.
The 6-disc in-dash CD changer was only available on the EX.
Alloy rims standard on EX and SE trims. Again, I'm not sure if the SEs came back out in 01 or 02. I should add that the EX and SE rims are different...
I believe the auto-off headlights were only on the EX models. The switch/stalk looks exactly the same, but if you leave your headlights on, and close the doors, the headlights should turn off about 15 seconds after the dome light completely fades off.
Based on this, and with a little reasoning, I'm quite certain you have an EX. The F23A4 is just the Cali-emissions version of the F23A1. The F23A5 motor came in the DX trim.
I'm not going to go into what is necessary for a turbo kit quite yet, because there's something I'd like to point out. The auto trannies are notorious for going bad in these cars. (More so with the V6, but it still happens frequently with the 4-cyl.) Anyway, this is why people immediately suggest frequent tranny fluid changes. Now, what that also means is that if you turbo your Accord, you also raise the risk of having your tranny go out. Now, before someone comes in here trying to say, "well so-and-so did it and he didn't have any problems", yes there are a few people who have not had any problems. On the other hand, there are more than just a few who did have problems.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">car could be a SE since it has all of the popular options on it. The only way you are going to know for sure is to look at the VIN and see what it says the car is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I ruled out the SE becuase they weren't available with 4-wheel discs and ABS.
I ruled out the SE becuase they weren't available with 4-wheel discs and ABS.
Ok well my headlights go off so ims sure i have an EX. If i were to turbo my car and the tranny went out would the 100k tranny warranty from honda be void since i turboed the car? this transmission thing really pisses me off acually, the whole reason i bought a car from a dealership is so i wouldnt have to worry about stupid **** like this.
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