I've noticed a loud whistle like tone coming from my cai latly.
So I took off the cai where it connects to the throttle body and it is coming from the trottle body , like where the butterfly is.
What the hell could make it start doing that and how do i make it go away?
Thanks in advance,
Sean

 

IS the butterfly shutting completely? Does it do it after the car warms up to reg. temps.?

 

It doesnt do it at idle , only when you give it gas and even then not at all rpm's.
for the most part my TB and Intake Mani. are clean inside. The motor is NA and never been sprayed. It started doing it about a month ago.
My wife tells me it sounds like a fan belt , how ambarassing.
Later,
Sean

 

yah, like at part throttle if you play with the gas pedal. i have it too dude, cant figure it out for the life of me, but im tearing down everything this week, maybe when i put it all back together itll go away.

check your vacuum lines and check the manifold bolts, make sure the gaskets dont leak at the throttle body or manny.

 

that happend to me when i did my mpfi swap and i turned my idle screw almost all the way down. i bet thats what it is.

 

happens to me sometimes it also did it on my bro's old crx. never figured it out. jus turn up the music

 

Carbon build up on the plate can hold it partially open, just enough for it to whistle. Also, whistling from an intake can mean its just sucking in air. My prelude did it alot from 2200-3500, then from 5300-6500, other then that the exhaust would over power it.

 

I just find it odd that it just started to do it .
I've got 3 complete intake mani's so i might take one of the throttle body's off and bolt it in and see if it goes away.
Later,
Sean

 

did you adjust your idle screw ?

 

I replaced my throttle body gasket and cleaned the throttle body up when i had it off last week and now mine does the exact same whistle which it didnt do it before i cleaned it....its weird how i just got the prob. at the same time as you

 

the whistle from my car was from the idle screw.
after i adjusted my idle for my cam it went away

 

The whistle sound is normal.
Almost all my buddies' cars that have CAI make this sound.
I think it has to do with the air resonating through the CAI... at certain rpms I guess the airflow has perfect resonance and starts to make that sound.

 

That would make sense , but , it just started to do it.
I'd agree if it has make the tone all along.
Hmmmmmmmm.

 

At partial throttle? Its seems normal to me... With a CAI it just seems louder. I changed from a 56mm bore TB to a 60mm bore TB and I got the whistle a bit... Once I bored out my IM to match it seemed to be a bit louder. I know its all put together correctly. I'm sure it's just to do with how far the throttle plate is open and the rush of air going past. It's working just like a whistle does...

 

My CAI and most other ones I've seen don't whistle, they sound like a vacuum at idle and then they sound like the world is about to end at WOT. You probably have a hole in the manifold? What's your setup?

 

Yeah i had the same prob on my last hatch, it was the exhaust donut gasket, but my buddys b16 in his hatch has it at the throttle body. He switched it to another throttle body and it's still there, so i told him to change his gasket and see what it does, he said he doesn't have one on their if i remember correctly last time i asked him about it when i was workin on my crx, lol.

 

Sounds turbo.

 

yeah happened to me when i bought a cai. I sounds cool to me. I don't think you ahve to worry about it. i guess the stock airbox muffles the noise. the stock airbox is plastic and your cai is aluminum i guess so there's a difference.

 

So should i re-torq the manifold nuts ?

 

i have the same problem right now. it has to to something with the idle screw. all the way in it whistles, and all the way out it doesnt whisle but you can hear air getting sucked in more when you stand at the engine and rev it. its weird. id like to understand whats happening?

i read somewhere else that re routing the vacuum lines makes this go away? how?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crx-si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the whistle from my car was from the idle screw.
after i adjusted my idle for my cam it went away</TD></TR></TABLE>

you know, its nice to know at least one person is listening.

why is everyone ignoring my idle screw solution?? thats whats causing your whistle. i am 100% sure, and to everyone that just lives with it, why dont you do a proper idle adjustment by unplugging your eacv. that way your idle screw wount have to be all the way in for a good idle and then make the whistle noise

the.hamburglar: try doing adjusting the idle the right way. i dont really know if theres a write up on here. but what i did was turned the idle screw out a bit so when you unplug your eacv your car wont die. set the idle screw in a bit at a time and plug the eacv back in. your going to have to reset the ecu everytime because you'r going to get a cel and go into limp mode from unplugging the thing. but im not sure if this is the right way to do it because i never found a write up.

 

there are plenty of write-ups here
even in the FAQ I think

it is covered quite well in the manual too

I have a similar thing in my DPFI under accel at about 2800-3200 it starts a hi note (about 2-3k note)
I never had this this I swapped to a short ram intake.
I have always figured it was hearing the valves work due to the straighter path for sound.

or am I wrong guys


Modified by HondaHeddie at 1:33 PM 3/18/2007

 

no, its the idle screw

 

ya i know its the screw. the reason i started messing my with screw is because i was sick of a 1200 idle. i checked all my hoses and i dont have a leak. i dont know whats going on. i have had it for like a year and i finally snapped!

anywhere to start with the vacuum leak? or something to make this idle go down?

 

try this.....
You will get check engine lights by doing this and have to reset your ecu. The EACV is located o the rear of the intake manifold and has 2 hoses running into the bottom. The plug for it on mine is green.

Start the engine and let it warm up to operating temp. When the car is under no load(i.e. no lights, no fans, no ac or heater, no power being pulled) disconnect the EACV plug. The car should drop to 650+ or-50 rpm. Adjust your idle adjustment screw(located on the throttle body) to dial this in. Plug the EACV plug back in.

Turn the engine off and reset the ecu(disconnect the hazard and ecu fuse for 10 sec.). Idle the engine for a minute under no load conditions your car should idle at 800+ or-50 rpm. Now idle for a min. with the lights and rear defoger on, the idle should stay within this 800+ or -50rpm range. Do the same thing with the heater on high.

If idle problems continue I would recomend replacing the EACV first. However when you are having problems with the EACV you should get a check engine light.
So heres how to test the EACV. Disconnect the plug to the EACV and measure resistance between the 2 terminals on the EACV. If there is not 8-15 ohms replace the EACV. If there is then continuity between each of the terminals and ground. If continuity exists then replace the EACV. If no it more then likely is an ECU problem that will resort in replacing first the EACV then the ECU.

found this by searching

your stock rpm gauge might not read as accurate as an after market one. i used to have an aftermarket gauge and then bought an si for my dx 4 door and for a day i had both hooked up at the same time. aftermarket was wired right to the blue wire at the back of the gauge cluster. the stock rpm gauge read higher then the aftermarket. i adjusted my idle by unplugging the eacv but didnt know where to set the rpm when it was unpluged so mines idling at about 1100 rpm on the stock rpm gauge but its probably lower then that since it reads higher.