So I bought the DC2 two weeks ago and when I bought it, it had some really nice aftermarket headunit in it, organic EL pioneer something. It also had an amp, a CD changer, and all the wiring for a sub. Well the sound would work intermittantly, then the radio would cut on and off with the motion of the car. I thought it was a bad ground or power. Then the radio wouldnt come on at all. I checked the under dash fuse and its good. I changed the headunit to another pioneer I had and it would power up and play sound for about a minute and then the audio would cut out. A couple more tries and now it doesnt power up at all. I have an electrical gremlin and it sounds like a dying fuse or some other glitch. What other fuses are there to control the radio. Here's another clue, now my dash clock doesnt work anymore either (no power). Any help would be appreciated. VTEC is great music, but it doesnt make my morning commute go by any faster.

 

so not a clue, nothing?

 

check your fuses under the hood.. sounds like somethings shorting out in there.. when you turn it probably makes it short out with would pop a fuse..

 

turns out that there is a 75AMP fuse in the box next to the battery that keeps blowing. When I replace it the clock and radio work until I turn the volume up and then it blows and I get no audio. The radio is still powered up but there is no sound. Still sounds like a short in the system somewhere. The speakers are Cerwin Vega if that makes a difference. Does anybody know what that 75AMP fuse is there to control?

 

You mean 7.5A fuse, it is backup power, [memory for oem HU, and ECU/ECM] .

The aftermarket HU needs more power on the constant power wire, [yellow] because the HU internal amp is bigger and needs more power, [current] then can be supplied by the oem radio harnesses constant power.

Try this.... run a fused, [30A] line, [12ga/10ga] from the batt. to behind the HU and connect the HUs constant power, [yellow] to it, don't forget to cap off the oem constant, [you still need the 7.5A circuit] I would also run a 12ga/10ga ground from the chassis of the HU, [back brace screw location] to the cars chassis, [any good ground]

The above should be done regardless of the other possibility of what may be wrong, in this case maybe a minor short on a speaker lead or a damaged, [shorted] VC in a speaker.