obd0 to obd1 conversion problems.

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Old May 14, 2006 | 03:50 PM
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From: kamloops, bc, canada
Default obd0 to obd1 conversion problems.

ok so i swapped in a z6 into my car, with a p28 with a conversion harness. no codes showing up. but the only thing is if i put my car in reverse my temp guage goes straight to hot, but when i take it out, it goes right back down to nothing. the temp guage is not working. yet my sensor is working cause my fan does turn on.

also i am blowing a fuse. the number one fuse. my tac and turn signal fuse. there might be more on it but i dont know what. oh my clock. can someone help me out here.

i know i am a noob on this site, but i did search, and didn't really come up with anything to help. my car is a 1990 crx si. if you need to know anything else, let me know.


thanx in advance


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Old May 14, 2006 | 04:04 PM
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Look for a short in the wiring somewhere.
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Old May 14, 2006 | 04:07 PM
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From: kamloops, bc, canada
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a short from where? the disty? or for the temperature guage?
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Old May 14, 2006 | 04:17 PM
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Default Re: (squadronleader)

from the temp gage sending unit (on the head around the dizzy) look for a yel/grn wire and do a continuity check. one lead goes on the female bullet connector and the other lead goes to the yel/grn wire on the back of the cluster. you should have continuity.

as SVOboy said there's a short. when the reverse lights energize that wire is grounding out.
I'm very familair with the temp gage circuit because when i made my obd1 harness i accidentally removed that wire and had to troubleshoot that circuit.

do your reverse lights work properly?
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Old May 14, 2006 | 05:26 PM
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ok i dont want to post that much today, cause i only get 5 posts a day. but anyway i fixed one problem, but once one problem is fixed you find another. ok i checked from the temp sending until and i had the wrong wire hooked up. i had a solid yellow going to it, and the yellow green going to the sensor on my tranny. i switched them, and now my back up lights work fine, and no more movement from my temp guage when i put it in reverse. however now my temp guages doesn't move at all. it still doesn't work. i checked all the fuses they are fine. could it be the unit itself? i cant be 100% about continuity but it is a new wiring harness. so i am assuming that is low possiblity, however i will check it if i can get my cluster out, never done that before. and i need to track down my volt meter.

sorry guys i am used to working on mazda's not honda's.

any ideas why my temps not working? other than continuity?

oh one more thing, when i turn the key on and off, the guage jumps just a little tinny bit. and fan still comes on when it gets hot. hope this helps.


Modified by squadronleader at 6:53 PM 5/14/2006
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Old May 14, 2006 | 05:52 PM
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Default Re: (squadronleader)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by squadronleader &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> however now my temp guages doesn't move at all. it still doesn't work. i checked all the fuses they are fine. could it be the unit itself? i cant be 100% about continuity but it is a new wiring harness. so i am assuming that is low possiblity, however i will check it if i can get my cluster out, never done that before. and i need to track down my volt meter.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You need to be 100% sure about the continuity.
find your ohmmeter and let us know what happens.
btw once you remove the cluster hood you might be able to access the plugs in the back of the cluster w/o removing it.
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Old May 14, 2006 | 07:13 PM
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Default Re: (eda6)

Are you sure you have the right plugs going in? When I was reading this about your first problem I was thinking you might have something plugged in wrong, the reverse lights and temp sensor are right next to each other. Did you make the harness or buy it?
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Old May 14, 2006 | 07:22 PM
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ok checked it, 100% continuity. it is all there. now what, i am at a loss. fixed everything else, accept the gauge problem
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Old May 14, 2006 | 07:43 PM
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Default Re: (squadronleader)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by squadronleader &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now what, i am at a loss.</TD></TR></TABLE>

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Old May 14, 2006 | 08:05 PM
  #10  
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thank you very much, i will get back to you tomrow, as this is my last post, and it is now dark outside. i can live with out the gauge for a little while longer.
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Old May 14, 2006 | 10:13 PM
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From: woodstock, ga, usa
Default damn.

damn man.. my da just did that like a week ago. it would do exactly what your describing. it was cause my fuse box caught fire and i needed to replace my dash harness.. so i parted it out.. i hope your luck is better than mine and its something small.. goodluck
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Old May 14, 2006 | 10:57 PM
  #12  
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Default Re: (squadronleader)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by squadronleader &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i dont want to post that much today, cause i only get 5 posts a day. but anyway i fixed one problem, but once one problem is fixed you find another. ok i checked from the temp sending until and i had the wrong wire hooked up. i had a solid yellow going to it, and the yellow green going to the sensor on my tranny. i switched them, and now my back up lights work fine, and no more movement from my temp guage when i put it in reverse. however now my temp guages doesn't move at all. it still doesn't work. i checked all the fuses they are fine. could it be the unit itself? i cant be 100% about continuity but it is a new wiring harness. so i am assuming that is low possiblity, however i will check it if i can get my cluster out, never done that before. and i need to track down my volt meter.

sorry guys i am used to working on mazda's not honda's.

any ideas why my temps not working? other than continuity?

oh one more thing, when i turn the key on and off, the guage jumps just a little tinny bit. and fan still comes on when it gets hot. hope this helps.


Modified by squadronleader at 6:53 PM 5/14/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

The helms manual warns that you should not power the heat gauge and let it move to the top position and stay there , it might get damaged. The longer it stays at full temp the more likely that it will be damaged.

Also the fan coming on has nothing to do with this temp sensor , it is controlled by a thermoswitch in the thermostat housing.
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