this is what i have going on:
- '90 dx crx
- z6 motor, dizzy, p28 ecu
- '88 si interior harness
- '88 si engine bay harness coverted to obd-1 (this was done by a well know company on this site, however last time i mentioned the company name the guy got mad and thought i was talking bad about his company name)

- ecu jumper harness (checked by same guy, said it looked bad but would work) this was amde by my friend

- i believe i have a 88-89 si cluster (it has the seatbelt light on the cluster)but it has the big cluster hood also

now everything from the harness is plugged in (except the trans. reverse switch)

-i checked all my grounds (there good)
- i have fuel
- the battery was @ 16.4 volts (when i tried to start the car)


so i go to try and crank the car and.... on the cluster the rpm goes to 1k and stays there (with engine off) along with the oil,brake,batt., and trunk light stay on

but the car wont crank (although it did last time i tried....(i've changed nothin))


so i grounded the wire from pin d4 (to check for ecu codes) but the light wonts come on (and i checked the ground...it's good)

after all that i tested the volts again: the batt was now @ 10.6 volts

also the battery was relocated to the trunk, so i tested for voltage at the firewall (from batt cables) and the voltage was 9.6v (so i lost 1 volt to resistance??)

and since the motor wont crank i cant test for spark....... when i turn the key on i can hear both the fuel pump prime, and the main relay click.

so if you guys have any ideas please chime in


Modified by hatchinprogress at 10:40 AM 5/17/2006

 

ttt

 

well you can check spark does it even roll over cause if it does then put a spare park plug in the plug wire and crank make sure u ground it out to make it spark

 

9.6V isn't enough voltage to start the car. have you tried charging the battery or getting a jump?

 

^^ agree. it might be enough to turn the engine over once or twice but not start it unless your lucky.

when you try to start it do you hear a loud CLICK from the engine bay? if you do this would indicate that the starter relay is working but there isn't enough juice to turn the engine over.

id say jump it and go from there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ahthisguyhere &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well you can check spark does it even roll over cause if it does then put a spare park plug in the plug wire and crank make sure u ground it out to make it spark</TD></TR></TABLE> the car doesnt even try to roll over....can i still check for spark??<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eda6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">9.6V isn't enough voltage to start the car. have you tried charging the battery or getting a jump?</TD></TR></TABLE> well when i 1st tried to start the car the battery was @ 16.4 v and i just had it fully charged at autozone, before i tried to start it.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tek_civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^ agree. it might be enough to turn the engine over once or twice but not start it unless your lucky.

when you try to start it do you hear a loud CLICK from the engine bay? if you do this would indicate that the starter relay is working but there isn't enough juice to turn the engine over.

id say jump it and go from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>yeah i hear the click when i try to start it........before i tried to start the car the batt. was at 16.4v and after i tried to start the car.....the volts dropped to 10.4v (9.4 v @ firewall) anyother ideas, anyone?

 

double check your wiring trust look at your wiring carefully and if not have you ever held of rywire.com nice place tomake your car from obd0 to obd1

look here this the best way to go

obd 0 to obd 1 distributor adapter


obd 0 to obd 1 ecu jumper


once again rywire.com they have everything to make obd conversions
so just get another '88 si wire hardness that hasnt been touched and start over

 

I think you should get the battery charged and put it back in the stock location to see if itll crank. The battery shouldnt drain that fast. There must be something draining it. Did it only drain when you were trying to start it...or does it also drain when nothing is on? And how many times did you try to start it?

When mine wouldnt start i kept cranking it and cranking it and it took forever to drain the battery. It seems like something is draining it unless you tried cranking it like 30 times.

Have you tried switching the ecu out for a known good one? I dont know why it wouldnt throw any codes if the cel was on. The only other thing i think it could be is a seriously fucked up wiring harness.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tigueremalo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">double check your wiring trust look at your wiring carefully and if not have you ever held of rywire.com nice place tomake your car from obd0 to obd1

look here this the best way to go

once again rywire.com they have everything to make obd conversions
so just get another '88 si wire hardness that hasnt been touched and start over</TD></TR></TABLE> well i wont mention the company's name but it's well know for there wiring here on ht<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sCeRaXn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you should get the battery charged and put it back in the stock location to see if itll crank. The battery shouldnt drain that fast. There must be something draining it. Did it only drain when you were trying to start it...or does it also drain when nothing is on? And how many times did you try to start it?

When mine wouldnt start i kept cranking it and cranking it and it took forever to drain the battery. It seems like something is draining it unless you tried cranking it like 30 times.

Have you tried switching the ecu out for a known good one? I dont know why it wouldnt throw any codes if the cel was on. The only other thing i think it could be is a seriously fucked up wiring harness.</TD></TR></TABLE>well the harness was made by a well know company who is know for good work (so i dont think it would be that??) i tried 2 different ecu's........ i tried my pr4 (which i know works)ecu w/out the ecu jumper and nothin happend, then i my p28 w/jumper harness and nothin happend (last time i tried w/p28 it did crank). about the battery before i tried to start the batt it was fully charged, and i only tried to start the car maybe 5-6 times (within about 10 minutes) and as far as it not throwin codes: the cel light is one and i was told to ground the wire from pin d4 (from the guy who made the harness) could that have been a mistake?? is there another know wire to ground (on conversion harness's)???

 

Did you just put that cluster in too? Since you aren't getting any lights on that you might want to check the wiring to it again. Check your timing (cam and dizzy) and firing order. I was having trouble starting my car and when the plugs were in the wrong spots (but right order) it seemed to draw a lot more current. How is the OBD1 dizzy connected to the stock harness? Did you buy a conversion harness for that or build it yourself? If you built it, post up about how you wired it (likewise for any wiring you did yourself). How exactly did you relocate the battery? What size wire did you use, and where is the ground spot? If you have a bad ground in the back it will not let the starter work, this happened to me, everything worked but the starter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you just put that cluster in too? Since you aren't getting any lights on that you might want to check the wiring to it again. Check your timing (cam and dizzy) and firing order. I was having trouble starting my car and when the plugs were in the wrong spots (but right order) it seemed to draw a lot more current. How is the OBD1 dizzy connected to the stock harness? Did you buy a conversion harness for that or build it yourself? If you built it, post up about how you wired it (likewise for any wiring you did yourself). How exactly did you relocate the battery? What size wire did you use, and where is the ground spot? If you have a bad ground in the back it will not let the starter work, this happened to me, everything worked but the starter. </TD></TR></TABLE> hey thanks for the advice! the cluster came in the car already, and i do get a check engine light (when i ground the wire i was told to) but after the is grounded i still dont get flashin lights (for codes) my harness was converted to obd-1 by a reputable conversion company (they on this site) the battery was already relocated to the trunk when i bought the shell (well the wiring was, i provided the battery) the ground is in the spare tire well and the wire is probly a 10 or 8 gauge (kinda small right?) and thanks again

 

First off ground that battery right, use 2 or 4 gauge wire and make sure the connection to the car is good. Sand the paint off and make sure it's shiny metal. Then put vaseline between the wire and car so when you screw it down, the vaseline will push out and seal the connection points from corrosion. What size is the wire running to the front of the car? If the harness is from a company, I would assume it's probably fine. Do you know if the cluster worked before?

 

Do you not have fuel or spark?? Which is it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by droppedcrxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you not have fuel or spark?? Which is it?</TD></TR></TABLE> i listed it above<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchinprogress &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">- i have fuel


the motor wont crank i cant test for spark.......</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

sorry to hear your problems, i've got problems as well doing my obd0-1 swap, mine is sputtering but cant get it fully started. good luck.

 

The car should crank without a ecu...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by droppedcrxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The car should crank without a ecu...</TD></TR></TABLE> well i have 2 different ecu's (pr4,p28) but what would you think would be the reason for no cranking?? also do you know why i cant check my ecu code's? (i grounded d4)

 

I think your battery is messed up. If your batter has 16 volts, there is something wrong. The battery should be 12 point something, maybe 13 but not 14 or more. It probably doesnt hold charge so it keeps on draining itself. The first thing I would do i try to start your car with a battery that you know is in good working condition. If it keeps on draining it, it means that some ground or power in your car or in the harness is messed up.

If you can get it to turn over and you have spark, I would suggest checking the spark plug wires at the distributor cause that might be the problem.

if that's okay, then i would probably have someone crank the car and someone else move the distributor while the other person i cranking the car. Your timing might be way off and prevent the car from turning on. Bolt the distributor to the engine and leave it just a little loose, enough so that you can bearly move it and also so it doesnt fly out.

Have you done a compression test on the engine?? If you have spark and fuel then the only thing that you are missing is compression. make sure the engine is in good working condition and do a compression test on the car.

About the check engine light. All EF's have a plug under the dash on the side of the glove box. I think its blue, it has 2 wires. It kind of like the one the EG's have. It looks the same, not sure if the color of the plug is the same, but i think the 2 wires are the same color. I believe its a BROWN wire and a GREEN wire. Use a paperclip to jumper the plug from one wire to the other. It should flash the code on the dash.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First off ground that battery right, use 2 or 4 gauge wire and make sure the connection to the car is good. Sand the paint off and make sure it's shiny metal. Then put vaseline between the wire and car so when you screw it down, the vaseline will push out and seal the connection points from corrosion. What size is the wire running to the front of the car? If the harness is from a company, I would assume it's probably fine. Do you know if the cluster worked before?</TD></TR></TABLE> QUESTION MARK

Fix that battery yet? I can tell you for sure that if you hook it up that way you can eliminate the battery wiring. Also it will allow you to find shorts from the positive cable to ground on the chassis.

 

on my 91 ef the ground on the coolant passage on the back was loose.

 

y dont you just make sure its not the battery yet, you cant elliminate anything if you just sit at the computer, go to your car and try another battery. its not going to fix itself.

 

If its not turning over, your not getting a starter signal.

 

thanks for the replie's guy's i fixed the battery ground (bigger wire) and right now it's raining out...ill keep you posted (when the rain stops)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dxcoupe. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If its not turning over, your not getting a starter signal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dxcoupe. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If its not turning over, your not getting a starter signal.</TD></TR></TABLE>thanks for the reply.....can you (or anyone) tell me how to get a starter signal?? are there wires i need to test(for starter) if so which 1's??? thanks for all the help people