So I can get a damn good deal on this salvaged shell, but its rear quarter is banged to hell. I haven't seen it in person as the drive is somewhat long but I'm having him take more pictures for me.

Here is the damage.







Now looking at those pictures, if I was to cut out the entire quarter panel and just replace it with a new one, do you think there would be much work outside of just that?

How difficutl is quarter panel replacement? Do I need a spot welder or can I mig it?

Sorry for the newb questions but I'm talking I can get this thing for a couple hundred and its a 98

 

you need a new quarter panel.. im not to to sure on removal as i have replaced my 4 door eg's a few days ago... you can use a mig to spot weld it back together tho

 

Yea. Needs a new quarter panel. Not hard really, just takes time. Have to find and drill out all the factory spots welds, and then fit and weld your new piece in there. Shouldnt be too bad. GOOD LUCK!
Kyle

 

thanks for the replies so far.

I know the pictures don't show a ton of detail, but based on what you can see, do you think that the frame needs pulling to get it straight or that its just quarter panel damage?

Anybody have any ideas what it costs to straighten a frame?

 

Coming from a Body tech, it's not bad. I see a ton worse everyday. The quarter will need to be replaced but it looks like it didn't go far enough to hit the inner fender which is a plus. To remove the quarter you will have to drill out all the spot welds (door area, dogleg, fender, taillight pocket, glass area). Side note it is possible to remove the glass your self but trust me it's a pain. We don't even do it in the shop, because it's a huge liability, best bet is to call a auto glass company, they can have someone come out remove it in under 20 min's and have them back to have them put it back in. Also don't remove the quarter till you have the new one (OEM sells them, or you can get a rear section from a Yard, and you'll have to take that one off to. ) The reason I say this is because you have to plan where you are going to slice (use cutoff wheel for clean cut) into the C pillar and dogleg. Also you'll have to make a backing plate for those. For drilling it out I would recommend using a small bit (1/4 - 1/2 the size of the spot weld) then using a spot hole drill bit (cheap, any auto paint store, which you will be going anyways) Try to only drill through the quarter with the spot weld bit (saves a big hassle welding) If you have trouble finding the spot welds you can use a sander or grinder to find the buggers. Once you do that you take a air hammer and work in between the quarter and the rest of the chassis. It'll also help you find the welds you missed (which happens so don't get discouraged and take your time.) Also after you weld you will need to grind them do to be flush. When you are ready for paint remember to use a type of metal primer to cover the unpainted areas other wise you'll be doing it again in 2 years when it rusts out.

Other than that all i can say is take your time.
if you have any other questions you can PM me.

 

that is fixable....heres a car that i got into a accident with...compare to yours..it should be a easier fix!!!!

 

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That's what I'm use to seeing. I feel ya buddy. is it that side or the whole back.

And I forgot to mention. as for the frame. you can take it some where (like a body shop) and have them do just a measurement with something like a shark (the best) to find out how out of whack the frame is. There are places that specialize in just frame straighting, those places are cheaper than a body shop. And remember the tolerances for the whole car is 3mm.

 

like vintech said....it's not that bad...and also like he said you're lucky that it doesn't appear to have damaged the wheel house. I also work at a body shop and he's absolutely right about the glass. our shop doesn't do it either, we sublet it out to a glass company for all of our jobs (except door glass). and mig welding it will be fine on the quarter, if you were replacing a core support or something along those lines it would be better to use a resistance spot welder (damn near factory looking).... anyway good luck and keep us posted.