Help Please! JRSC Bypass Valve Seal Torn?
I can hear a very loud whistling or hissing noise from the bypass valve on the intake manifold. I have an outlawengineering im gasket so I had to use a longer piece of hose between the valve on the im and the blower. The rubber hose is thicker but fits snug. I used some hose clamps and clamped her down good.
When I turn the car on the rod moves and if I hit the gas the rod moves.
I am wondering if I have a torn seal inside? If I did have a torn seal would the rod move when I start the car?
If it isn't a torn seal inside making the noise what is it?
I don't quite understand how it works but how much suction is thier on the piece of hose. Like maybe the hose clamps aren't tight enough and air is slipping by.
Car is very boggy and doesn't seem to boost(no gauge).
Thanks,
98civic94gsr
Cliffs: Whistling noise from bypass valve. Rod still moves when car is started. Could torn seal be the problem even if rod moves?
THanks again.
When I turn the car on the rod moves and if I hit the gas the rod moves.
I am wondering if I have a torn seal inside? If I did have a torn seal would the rod move when I start the car?
If it isn't a torn seal inside making the noise what is it?
I don't quite understand how it works but how much suction is thier on the piece of hose. Like maybe the hose clamps aren't tight enough and air is slipping by.
Car is very boggy and doesn't seem to boost(no gauge).
Thanks,
98civic94gsr
Cliffs: Whistling noise from bypass valve. Rod still moves when car is started. Could torn seal be the problem even if rod moves?
THanks again.
98 civic hx
94gsr(jdm) with itr header,lite wgt flywheel, 2.5 in exhaust.
jrsc stock psi i think
I took it for a spin after installing the b&m regulator with the fuel pressure set at 40 psi with vacuum line on. It seem less boggy but it was still boggy.
With the 255 high pressure pump and no b&m the fuel pressure was at 46.
Where would you put the fuel pressure at?
Its really wierd because after I took it through 4 gears only up to about 6000 rpms it was very very boggy again. The car had been idiling so it was already warmed up. Why does it get boggier after I drive it a while?
My wideband shows about 13.5-14 cruising. 11-12's getting on it hard. I have the timing set at about 12.
I still have the bad bouncing idle as well. I've got to get the this whistling noise fixed I know its a leak and is prolly the culprit of most of my problems.
Also I checked again and as soon as I start the car the rod goes into the black plastic clylnder. When I press the gas it comes out. I took the vacuum line off the bypass valve and the idle immediletly dropped so I put it back on.
Well more info for you guys to mull over
94gsr(jdm) with itr header,lite wgt flywheel, 2.5 in exhaust.
jrsc stock psi i think
I took it for a spin after installing the b&m regulator with the fuel pressure set at 40 psi with vacuum line on. It seem less boggy but it was still boggy.
With the 255 high pressure pump and no b&m the fuel pressure was at 46.
Where would you put the fuel pressure at?
Its really wierd because after I took it through 4 gears only up to about 6000 rpms it was very very boggy again. The car had been idiling so it was already warmed up. Why does it get boggier after I drive it a while?
My wideband shows about 13.5-14 cruising. 11-12's getting on it hard. I have the timing set at about 12.
I still have the bad bouncing idle as well. I've got to get the this whistling noise fixed I know its a leak and is prolly the culprit of most of my problems.
Also I checked again and as soon as I start the car the rod goes into the black plastic clylnder. When I press the gas it comes out. I took the vacuum line off the bypass valve and the idle immediletly dropped so I put it back on.
Well more info for you guys to mull over
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vtecn8ive
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Oct 6, 2006 07:14 PM





