95 acura integra LS
i got a coupe 95 teggy ls.. all the speakers are blown except for the door one on the passenger side front door..
anyways i want to change them all.. do anyone know the size the speakers are.. i want to buy new one and something that will hit hard... what does everyone reccommend.. also anyone have a diy on how to get the speaker out the front door.. and what about the one in back.. thats covered by a vent.. where the rear seat is?
anyways i want to change them all.. do anyone know the size the speakers are.. i want to buy new one and something that will hit hard... what does everyone reccommend.. also anyone have a diy on how to get the speaker out the front door.. and what about the one in back.. thats covered by a vent.. where the rear seat is?
They are 6.5" all the way around. The front door speakers require removal of the door panel. One screw towards the front, one in the handle on the armrest and one screw in the door handle covered. After removing the 3 screws you use a flat head/panel popper and remove the panel. For the rear its easier: w/flat head you pry from the rear(trunk side) and the panel pops off. Its that easy. If you need help IM me.
you will need aftermarekt 6.5" speakers.. anything better than stock sounds ok, if you can drop some cash i would recommend infinity, rockford, kicker, etc.
install
tools needed: phillips screwdriver, small wire connectors, wire cutter
1) there are 3 screws holding on ur door panel .one is in the top corner of the door panel that is normally behind the dash, one is in the coin pocket and one is hidden behind a plastic panel( use a flathead screwdriver to pop this up) next to the door handle. now pop off the door panel and disconnect the wires leading to window switches
2)remove the entire speaker enclosure( 4 screws) now remove the speaker from the enclosure. cut the wires leading to the stock speakers at the base of the connector. since most aftermarket speakers are deeper than stock size, you will need to cut the round plastic baffle at the back of the enclosure.
3)splice the old speaker wires with the new(red or green yellow small line on wire= positive and black=negative) using the wire connectors. don't use just tape to splice them. now screw the enclosure back into the door and finally screw the speaker back into the enclosure
4) get the door panle back on. start by lining the window molding up with door( roll down windows for this step
then pop the rest of the panel back on. do this step right or your panels will vibrate and sound like crap.
5) back speakers: pop the grill out w/ a flathead screwdriver. 3 screws attach these ones, one can take a lil time and elbow grease to get out. cut the stock wires and splice it with the new ones. getting the speakers in/ out is a lil tricky. slide the top in sideways and wiggle it until it goes in. this will take some effort.
or
install
tools needed: phillips screwdriver, small wire connectors, wire cutter
1) there are 3 screws holding on ur door panel .one is in the top corner of the door panel that is normally behind the dash, one is in the coin pocket and one is hidden behind a plastic panel( use a flathead screwdriver to pop this up) next to the door handle. now pop off the door panel and disconnect the wires leading to window switches
2)remove the entire speaker enclosure( 4 screws) now remove the speaker from the enclosure. cut the wires leading to the stock speakers at the base of the connector. since most aftermarket speakers are deeper than stock size, you will need to cut the round plastic baffle at the back of the enclosure.
3)splice the old speaker wires with the new(red or green yellow small line on wire= positive and black=negative) using the wire connectors. don't use just tape to splice them. now screw the enclosure back into the door and finally screw the speaker back into the enclosure
4) get the door panle back on. start by lining the window molding up with door( roll down windows for this step
then pop the rest of the panel back on. do this step right or your panels will vibrate and sound like crap.5) back speakers: pop the grill out w/ a flathead screwdriver. 3 screws attach these ones, one can take a lil time and elbow grease to get out. cut the stock wires and splice it with the new ones. getting the speakers in/ out is a lil tricky. slide the top in sideways and wiggle it until it goes in. this will take some effort.
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there is another screw holding your coin pocket into the door panel. for the 3rd screw look in the middle of the depression where the door handle is. there will be a small rectangular panel in the middle. pry this panel up
u will need some wire cutters to cut the plastic at the back of the enclosure if your stock speakers are deeper than stock depth( 3.5").
this is the tool you will need

u will need some wire cutters to cut the plastic at the back of the enclosure if your stock speakers are deeper than stock depth( 3.5").
this is the tool you will need
and since you seem to be struggling, here are the colors for the various speakers wires
Red/Green Front Passenger Speaker +
Brown/Black Front Passenger's Speaker -
Blu/Green Front Driver Speaker +
Grey/Black Front Driver Speaker -
Blue/Yellow rear Left Speaker +
Grey/ White rear left speaker -
Red/Yellow rear Right Speaker +
Brown/White rear right speaker -
Red/Green Front Passenger Speaker +
Brown/Black Front Passenger's Speaker -
Blu/Green Front Driver Speaker +
Grey/Black Front Driver Speaker -
Blue/Yellow rear Left Speaker +
Grey/ White rear left speaker -
Red/Yellow rear Right Speaker +
Brown/White rear right speaker -
heh heh.. i used a dremel to cut out the back of my speaker housings... a little over kill but >_<
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if you really don't know how to install speakers in to your car... spend the extra money at http://www.crutchfield.com/ they send you every thing you need with each purchase...
from harnesses to use the factory wiring, and install diagrams...
also if your still using the stock head unit, your blown speakers could be because of that POS stock head unit..
buy a new headunit! then buy the speakers, amps, and subs..
if u want a "banging" you need subs.. and amps.. and real wiring...not the crappy car wiring...
have fun! ppl have built awsome systems for about a grand... 1 sub and amp for sub, a head unit, and some component speakers up front hooked up to a second amp will normally do the trick
you don't really need rear speakers....
---------------------------
if you really don't know how to install speakers in to your car... spend the extra money at http://www.crutchfield.com/ they send you every thing you need with each purchase...
from harnesses to use the factory wiring, and install diagrams...
also if your still using the stock head unit, your blown speakers could be because of that POS stock head unit..
buy a new headunit! then buy the speakers, amps, and subs..
if u want a "banging" you need subs.. and amps.. and real wiring...not the crappy car wiring...
have fun! ppl have built awsome systems for about a grand... 1 sub and amp for sub, a head unit, and some component speakers up front hooked up to a second amp will normally do the trick
you don't really need rear speakers....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpr0422 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also if your still using the stock head unit, your blown speakers could be because of that POS stock head unit..
you don't really need rear speakers....</TD></TR></TABLE>
umm a factory headunit is LESS likely to blow out speakers because most are around 60w whereas most aftermarket headunits are 160-200 watts.'
and yah, new rear speakers will vastly improve the SQ in your car. blown rear speakers will sound like crap even if you have a sub bumpin, so replace those ASAP before you invest in subs
you don't really need rear speakers....</TD></TR></TABLE>
umm a factory headunit is LESS likely to blow out speakers because most are around 60w whereas most aftermarket headunits are 160-200 watts.'
and yah, new rear speakers will vastly improve the SQ in your car. blown rear speakers will sound like crap even if you have a sub bumpin, so replace those ASAP before you invest in subs
not if the amp built into them doesn't supply enough power.. underpowering the speakers.. and creating constant distortion...
thus frying the speakers
happened to me... old rarely used - 1990 honda accord headunit - the accord got stolen in 92, those 90 accords were hot, back in the day - in my 95 civic.. fried the passenger side kenwood speaker....
thought the speaker was the problem.. changed speakers.. same distortion...
changed head unit.. no distortion :-D
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i said you don't NEED to have rear speakers..
i mean not even run rear speakers
just run front speakers.. it cheaper.. and with the right setup they sound as full as a 4 speaker setup..
audio is only 2 channels... left and right.. so you only need em up front...
thus frying the speakers
happened to me... old rarely used - 1990 honda accord headunit - the accord got stolen in 92, those 90 accords were hot, back in the day - in my 95 civic.. fried the passenger side kenwood speaker....
thought the speaker was the problem.. changed speakers.. same distortion...
changed head unit.. no distortion :-D
----------
i said you don't NEED to have rear speakers..
i mean not even run rear speakers
just run front speakers.. it cheaper.. and with the right setup they sound as full as a 4 speaker setup..
audio is only 2 channels... left and right.. so you only need em up front...
Well you have a lot of info, some I agree with and some not.
Although replacing the oem speakers can improve SQ, [a little] the weak link in your system is the oem HU, [probably around 2x 5W-7W rms per ch.] today's "high power" HU will be 4x 20W-30W rms per ch.
There are good aftermarket speakers that will fit without any mods, [if you want to attempt the install yourself] and with a kit and harness the HU install is not that hard.
I have a 94 LS, with an Alpine HU and 4 Eclipse 6.5" 2way speakers, [they fit the oem speaker housings without mods] although I do not run any amps, [other then the built in one] and no sub, I did spend a fair amount of time to custom install both the front and rear speakers to get the SQ I do.
The g3, [hatch] is a very easy car to get great sound into without a lot of equipment , it just needs a good HU and 4 good speakers and a proper install, not only can you improve on the oem HU and speakers, but huge gains can be found in speaker mounting, [hint.... a speaker mounted to wood will always sound better then the same speaker mounted to anything else] and on a g3 hatch the oem rear speaker mounting blows chunks.
Hope this helps, feel free to IM me if you need more info.
94
Although replacing the oem speakers can improve SQ, [a little] the weak link in your system is the oem HU, [probably around 2x 5W-7W rms per ch.] today's "high power" HU will be 4x 20W-30W rms per ch.
There are good aftermarket speakers that will fit without any mods, [if you want to attempt the install yourself] and with a kit and harness the HU install is not that hard.
I have a 94 LS, with an Alpine HU and 4 Eclipse 6.5" 2way speakers, [they fit the oem speaker housings without mods] although I do not run any amps, [other then the built in one] and no sub, I did spend a fair amount of time to custom install both the front and rear speakers to get the SQ I do.
The g3, [hatch] is a very easy car to get great sound into without a lot of equipment , it just needs a good HU and 4 good speakers and a proper install, not only can you improve on the oem HU and speakers, but huge gains can be found in speaker mounting, [hint.... a speaker mounted to wood will always sound better then the same speaker mounted to anything else] and on a g3 hatch the oem rear speaker mounting blows chunks.
Hope this helps, feel free to IM me if you need more info.
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well you have a lot of info, some I agree with and some not.
[hint.... a speaker mounted to wood will always sound better then the same speaker mounted to anything </TD></TR></TABLE>
r u talkin about some sort of pimp 1/2'' mdf hidden speaker enclosure. pics or dimensionsof the aformentioned pimp box? i have been thinking about doing this for a while, i have infinity kappas/ alpine 9823 but no bass
[hint.... a speaker mounted to wood will always sound better then the same speaker mounted to anything </TD></TR></TABLE>
r u talkin about some sort of pimp 1/2'' mdf hidden speaker enclosure. pics or dimensionsof the aformentioned pimp box? i have been thinking about doing this for a while, i have infinity kappas/ alpine 9823 but no bass
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so u have the esclipe 2 way speakers up front and rear without mods?
thanks for all the help guys..</TD></TR></TABLE> No, they can be installed without mods, I have extensive mods, custom MDF mounting panels in front and custom MDF and fiberglass cabinets in the rear, and the tweeters are disconnected in the rears.
94
thanks for all the help guys..</TD></TR></TABLE> No, they can be installed without mods, I have extensive mods, custom MDF mounting panels in front and custom MDF and fiberglass cabinets in the rear, and the tweeters are disconnected in the rears.
94
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