A few months ago I started having some issues with the clutch pedal getting real soft and not disengaging the clutch all the way if the car wasn't driven for a couple days.

We recently put a new clutch master cylinder in, which actually made the problem worse, so we also put a new slave cylinder in. The car was driveable for the day, but after sitting for two days - same problem again. If I bleed the crap out of the system it's drivable for most of the day, but as the day goes on, the pedal gets closer and closer to the floor.

The other night we replaced the hard line with a custom stainless steel line, which didn't help the problem either. We've bled the crap out of the system, both manually and with a Mityvac, but it doesn't seem to help.

It appears air is getting into the system somewhere, but we cannot figure out where. Any suggestions or help are greatly appreciated - I really don't want to have to drive this car to Expo :

 

drive the Acclaim

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jon D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drive the Acclaim </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL, it will smote j00! V-6 p0wa

 

lol

definitely sounds air/fluid related. any change in the fluid level after driving for awhile and it starts to get soft?

partially submerge the R in a lake, press the clutch pedal a few times, see if any air is escaping from the system? (you could also use dishwashing detergent but thats no fun)

 

I'm having clutch problems right now too. Never noticed it before but it seems that when the car is cold I can shift fine, when the car is hot I cant get it into gear. Only by rev-matching will it go into gear. I drove to NYC and back not using the clutch. I've ordered a new clutch/flywheel and will change it out and replace the the fluid while I'm at it.

 

No visible change in fluid level. It appears there wass a little fluid leaking from the reservoir hose where it connects to the master, but we replaced the clamp with a better one, and it doesn't appear to be leaking any more.

 

would hurt to replace the reservoir and the hose from that to the m/c.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by function83 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would hurt to replace the reservoir and the hose from that to the m/c.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I assume you mean <U>wouldn't</U> hurt. I do intend on placing those items just to eliminate them being a possible problem, but I really don't see them being the issue.

 

Leave the reservoir cap off over night. Try that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperTwinz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Leave the reservoir cap off over night. Try that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll give it a shot.

 

You probably dented one of the clutch lines, hence air is being released, or one of the lines is not tight enough hence air is being let in

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You probably dented one of the clutch lines, hence air is being released, or one of the lines is not tight enough hence air is being let in</TD></TR></TABLE>

We replaced the hard line with a custom stainless steel line, and I'm pretty certain the connections are tight.

 

Did you start having these problems after changing out the lines?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you start having these problems after changing out the lines?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, we only replaced the line hoping it would resolve the problem.

 

So what happened to this story, I'm having the same problem. I've bled the fluid and still the same. I can't see any leaks, but the levels have dropped over night. Need a MS or SC?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tangina337 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So what happened to this story, I'm having the same problem. I've bled the fluid and still the same. I can't see any leaks, but the levels have dropped over night. Need a MS or SC?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's still an open-ended problem. The entire hydraulic system has been replaced (clutch master cylinder & reservoir, clutch line, & slave cylinder), yet the sinking pedal persists. Car will be getting a new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel & release bearing in the next few months, hopefully it will resolve the issue...

 

I thought for sure the lake technique would resolve this...

anything else strange about how it feels? like engaging smoothly even though the pedal gets lower to the floor? or is it occassionally rough, harsh, unpredictable engagement?

 

It's just a case of Error code.... TLFTL!!!

 

When you replace EVERY single part, the only thing your left with is installer error.

Disconnect your "custom flex line", and bench bleed the master cylinder till NO bubbles are coming out. If you don't, it's a total bitch to bleed the system since the clutch pedal moves so little fluid w/ air in the MC. Also be sure to keep the fluid level in that tiny reservoir topped off as it will drop VERY quickly once the system does build pressure. If this doesn't help, then sell the car for scrap...

 

But the problem is, once the pedal sinks to the floor overnight, simply pulling it back up manually and holding for a few seconds you can feel & hear something snap back into place and the pedal functions normally again until it sits for a while. I don't think it's installer error at all there's something more to the problem that hasn't been accounted for yet.

 

Mike,
I had a clutch problem where my pedal would not fully disengage the clutch and then become STUCK to the floor at high RPM shifts, but fine at low RPM. one day i came to start my car and it went to the floor and STAYED there. it turned out to be this...





it doesnt sound like you have quite the same symptoms...but you never know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mugen Mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But the problem is, once the pedal sinks to the floor overnight, simply pulling it back up manually and holding for a few seconds you can feel & hear something snap back into place and the pedal functions normally again until it sits for a while. I don't think it's installer error at all there's something more to the problem that hasn't been accounted for yet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe your clutch pedal is afraid of people from wisconsin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JOHN WAYNE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mike,
I had a clutch problem where my pedal would not fully disengage the clutch and then become STUCK to the floor at high RPM shifts, but fine at low RPM. one day i came to start my car and it went to the floor and STAYED there. it turned out to be this...

[img]http://autumnatic.org/images/fork.jpg[img]



your problem doesnt sound to have quite the same symptoms...but you never know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, the next thing to try was to push the rubber boot aside and try to lubricate that fork in case it wasn't properly lubricated. I may even order a new one as a precautionary measure when I do the clutch, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Erik95LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

maybe your clutch pedal is afraid of people from wisconsin</TD></TR></TABLE>

either that or it needs to eat more cheese and bratwurst

 

i have a weird experiences that i've seen

1. what ^^he said, could be a bent fork and its not giving a solid engage

2. on the slave cylinder the pin that touches fork has a nipple and kept getting stuck and would not engage the gears properly, sand down and smooth out that little nipple

3. one my screws on the master cylinder that go into the dash area kept getting loose, causing it not to engage, loctite your screws,

4. replace the rubber seal that touchs the firewall.