Type-S Piston Installation (Honing and Boring)
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From: Tucson...Cactus Town, Az, usa
I have a set of Type-S Pistons Oversized and I just got done talking to http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/portflow.htm and Mike from that shop told me..."the amount of work to bore & hone your stock block to make it fit is just not worth the $$." Basically, he's saying it's a big job and it's not worth doing. Now I have a stock H22A4 block and was just wondering if any of you guys had this issue with running the Type-S OS pistons? After hearing that from the shop, now I'm not sure what type of pistons I should I go with?
My specs:
AEM CAI
Stock TB
Euro-R Intake Manifold*
Euro-R Camshafts w/ Fidanza Camgears*
p28 w/ Hondata S300*
Type-S Pistons OS bore*
SMSP Header (designed to these specs)
Mugen Exhaust (might change it because piping is not 2.5")
Unorthodox SS Pulley set
*Parts sitting around my room that will be installed...
any input would be appreciated.
thanks,
kev
My specs:
AEM CAI
Stock TB
Euro-R Intake Manifold*
Euro-R Camshafts w/ Fidanza Camgears*
p28 w/ Hondata S300*
Type-S Pistons OS bore*
SMSP Header (designed to these specs)
Mugen Exhaust (might change it because piping is not 2.5")
Unorthodox SS Pulley set
*Parts sitting around my room that will be installed...
any input would be appreciated.
thanks,
kev
it sounds like he just wants to talk you into a sleeve job on your block.
If you have your heart set on honing out for the os pistons, call around and find a shop that has experience working on older porsche engines. they also had the frm sleeves that make our engines unique. they should have the proper tooling and experience to get the job done right, but it will probably cost you.
good luck with your project
If you have your heart set on honing out for the os pistons, call around and find a shop that has experience working on older porsche engines. they also had the frm sleeves that make our engines unique. they should have the proper tooling and experience to get the job done right, but it will probably cost you.
good luck with your project
yeah man laskey is just trying to sell you a set of sleeves, dont listen to them
call around to machine shops and see who can do it, give your honda dealer a call and see if they can reccomend a shop for it....
call around to machine shops and see who can do it, give your honda dealer a call and see if they can reccomend a shop for it....
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Are your cylinder walls scratched? if not then think twice about going oversized. My walls were in good enough shape to just go with a light hone and maintain the standard size A pistons. I honestly think if you dont have to get into your block then don't do it. I absolutely had to redo my rings bc they were shot so I figured if I have to spend $2000 for the job I might as well throw in a $200 set of pistons while in the process.
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From: Tucson...Cactus Town, Az, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by piotrush »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are your cylinder walls scratched? if not then think twice about going oversized. My walls were in good enough shape to just go with a light hone and maintain the standard size A pistons. I honestly think if you dont have to get into your block then don't do it. I absolutely had to redo my rings bc they were shot so I figured if I have to spend $2000 for the job I might as well throw in a $200 set of pistons while in the process. </TD></TR></TABLE>
well, I did a compression test and it was around 180-190 for each cylinder and I figured I might as well go with some oversize since I have 153,000miles on it already.
well, I did a compression test and it was around 180-190 for each cylinder and I figured I might as well go with some oversize since I have 153,000miles on it already.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whoa whoa piotrush....$2k is a lot for an overbore and a hone
and a .25 oversize is definitely worth it, 18cc extra displacement is worth it in my opinion....</TD></TR></TABLE>
that was for the whole job including new crank bearings and engine removal and reassembly and everything together. Im just saying that if he doesn't have to take more FRM off the walls, he should reconsider in case something goes wrong later and he has to rehone again; at that point there are no bigger oem piston sizes and the only option is to resleeve. If all your pistons are size A for example you could try overboring .1mm and using all B sized psitons (i think thats how much bogger thay are).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by khalal538 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, I did a compression test and it was around 180-190 for each cylinder and I figured I might as well go with some oversize since I have 153,000miles on it already.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those are pretty low for an h22. I dunno, if your walls are damaged and you want the 18cc of displacement then go for it. I'd think that the gain from going to 11:1 compression in the first place would be big enough not to make the extra displacement matter that much but I might be wrong.
and a .25 oversize is definitely worth it, 18cc extra displacement is worth it in my opinion....</TD></TR></TABLE>
that was for the whole job including new crank bearings and engine removal and reassembly and everything together. Im just saying that if he doesn't have to take more FRM off the walls, he should reconsider in case something goes wrong later and he has to rehone again; at that point there are no bigger oem piston sizes and the only option is to resleeve. If all your pistons are size A for example you could try overboring .1mm and using all B sized psitons (i think thats how much bogger thay are).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by khalal538 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, I did a compression test and it was around 180-190 for each cylinder and I figured I might as well go with some oversize since I have 153,000miles on it already.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those are pretty low for an h22. I dunno, if your walls are damaged and you want the 18cc of displacement then go for it. I'd think that the gain from going to 11:1 compression in the first place would be big enough not to make the extra displacement matter that much but I might be wrong.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by piotrush »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that was for the whole job including new crank bearings and engine removal and reassembly and everything together. Im just saying that if he doesn't have to take more FRM off the walls, he should reconsider in case something goes wrong later and he has to rehone again; at that point there are no bigger oem piston sizes and the only option is to resleeve. If all your pistons are size A for example you could try overboring .1mm and using all B sized psitons (i think thats how much bogger thay are). </TD></TR></TABLE>
'B' pistons are smaller than 'A' pistons, it's about .1mm.
'B' pistons are smaller than 'A' pistons, it's about .1mm.
That means by pulling the engine myself, and reinstalling it myself I saved $1300!!! Labor will get you every time. Not to mention I learned a lot about my car......
If your having new pistons installed, go the whole way, and have new bearings installed on the bottom end, get the OS type-S pistons (May need different rods), bore/hone, go for some crower stage 2 cams, springs/retainers, and a good tuning tool, get it dyno'd to tune it and you'll be over 200whp......
If your having new pistons installed, go the whole way, and have new bearings installed on the bottom end, get the OS type-S pistons (May need different rods), bore/hone, go for some crower stage 2 cams, springs/retainers, and a good tuning tool, get it dyno'd to tune it and you'll be over 200whp......
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From: Tucson...Cactus Town, Az, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94vtecmn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That means by pulling the engine myself, and reinstalling it myself I saved $1300!!! Labor will get you every time. Not to mention I learned a lot about my car......
If your having new pistons installed, go the whole way, and have new bearings installed on the bottom end, get the OS type-S pistons (May need different rods), bore/hone, go for some crower stage 2 cams, springs/retainers, and a good tuning tool, get it dyno'd to tune it and you'll be over 200whp......</TD></TR></TABLE>
I already have brand new Euro-R cams w/ Fidanza cam gears sitting in my room so I'll stick with that combo. I'm not sure if I'm going to change my piston rods or not, but definitely will be replacing bearings and seals. The crank may get some micropolishing. I'm probably gonna go with Supertech or RM valvetrain kit. Tuning will be done with a Hondata s300. The hard part now is finding a shop to install the parts and have the engine fully rebuilt.
If your having new pistons installed, go the whole way, and have new bearings installed on the bottom end, get the OS type-S pistons (May need different rods), bore/hone, go for some crower stage 2 cams, springs/retainers, and a good tuning tool, get it dyno'd to tune it and you'll be over 200whp......</TD></TR></TABLE>
I already have brand new Euro-R cams w/ Fidanza cam gears sitting in my room so I'll stick with that combo. I'm not sure if I'm going to change my piston rods or not, but definitely will be replacing bearings and seals. The crank may get some micropolishing. I'm probably gonna go with Supertech or RM valvetrain kit. Tuning will be done with a Hondata s300. The hard part now is finding a shop to install the parts and have the engine fully rebuilt.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94vtecmn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That means by pulling the engine myself, and reinstalling it myself I saved $1300!!! Labor will get you every time. Not to mention I learned a lot about my car......</TD></TR></TABLE>
I second that!! I saved probably more on labor because I did the brakes, rotros, pads, suspension AND the engine swap myself.
Not only did I save $$$, but I also learned a lot more than I would have if someone else had done the work.
I second that!! I saved probably more on labor because I did the brakes, rotros, pads, suspension AND the engine swap myself.
Not only did I save $$$, but I also learned a lot more than I would have if someone else had done the work.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soundbomber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://jerrybuiltracing.com/</TD></TR></TABLE>
still waiting for an email response from them...any other places that specialize in H22s?
still waiting for an email response from them...any other places that specialize in H22s?
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