as performance. does strut bar really work well ??
all those front strut bar, rear strut bar. H brace. lower front and rear tie bar..
those cross trunk bar.. and so on..

does it really works ?? any prove ?
or it is just adding weight. and for loooks ?

 

it does not improve cornering ability, lap times etc. some people say it improves feel mostly turn-in. ive never been able to tell in side-by-sides on friends cars.

as far as im concerned its simply a thing for looks.

 

so whats the simplest thing i can do to improve my cornering ability , except for being a better driver. get a bigger swaybar ? i got 94 gsr.. with GC and tokico white.

 

would also like to know

 

falken azenis 615s will greatly increase cornering.

 

Basically strut bars and tie bars will "stiffen" the chassis. It doesn't stiffen it a whole lot, but helps prevent the chassis from twisting during cornering. Obviously what you pay for is what you get. My friend bought an eBay strut tower for his 240sx. Visually it looked alright, but when we did our own stress tests it seems to flex quite a bit. Whereas my JIC strut tower bar off my 90 RX7 was a lot more structually sound.

Now if you're trying to find something to improve your cornering and handling, then the goal would be to have a stiff suspension to keep the weight transfers to a minimum. Also it depends on how far you and/or your pocket is willing to go.

- a good spring & shock combo or full coilover (ie. Tein, JIC, etc.)
- poly urethane bushings
- bigger sway bars (bigger is not always better...too stiff and you may experience understeer or oversteer)
- camber kits
- chassis bracing (roll cage, strut bars, tie bars, tig welding the chasis will help too)
- tubular chassis (...if price really isn't a big concern)
- aftermarket LCAs
- rims and tires

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fkn EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...
- a good spring & shock combo or full coilover (ie. Tein, JIC, etc.)
- poly urethane bushings
- bigger sway bars (bigger is not always better...too stiff and you may experience understeer or oversteer)
- camber kits
- chassis bracing (roll cage, strut bars, tie bars, tig welding the chasis will help too)
- tubular chassis (...if price really isn't a big concern)
- aftermarket LCAs
- rims and tires...</TD></TR></TABLE>

partly right. he alread siad he was running tokico illumina and ground control, which is just a small step down from the illustrious koni/gc setup, so good spring/shock combo is covered. though i would be interested in the spring rates.
poly bushings do help a bit, ive never heard definitive lap time or skidpad number differences, but they do increse the crispness of the handling, but the ride quality suffers.

upgrading from the stock gsr 14mm sway bar will do quite a bit, itr bar with a beaks kit or asr works well and will reduce both bodyroll and push in the corners
camber kits can offer better handling, not in and of themselves, but by adjusting for the given situation. unless you track the car and can take the time to adjust each setting they wont do a whole lot.
strut bars and tie bars are all primarily in locations that dont flex alot to begin with. if you want to add them to hang your laundry on thats fine, but you wont see much if any of a benefit, maybe a percieved feel enhanceemnt. a cage will stiffen more than any other mod you can do, but unless you drive everywhere with a harness and helmet they are a bit unsafe, like if you bash your head in on a cage bar in a crash. the rest of you will be fine but your head will be fucked

aftermarket lca's will do jack and ****. the stock ones dont flex appreciably to warrant replacement (unless the bushings are shot, in which case most of the bushings in aftermarket lcas are pretty crappy)
rims/tires is a very good suggestion<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CAVTECSol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">falken azenis 615s</TD></TR></TABLE> OP what are you running for tires now?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fkn EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">- a good spring & shock combo or full coilover (ie. Tein, JIC, etc.)
- poly urethane bushings
- bigger sway bars (bigger is not always better...too stiff and you may experience understeer or oversteer)
- camber kits
- chassis bracing (roll cage, strut bars, tie bars, tig welding the chasis will help too)
- tubular chassis (...if price really isn't a big concern)
- aftermarket LCAs
- rims and tires</TD></TR></TABLE>


The order should look more like this:

- rims & tires (#1 best handling mod)
- springs & shocks (perferably adjustable damping rate for tuning handeling)
- sway-bars (different combos produce different handling results)
- bushings (OEM rubber for street, Hard rubber & poly for race)
- chassis bracing ([&lt;street]tie bars----frame locks----roll bar----roll cage----stitch welding[race&gt;])


*aftermarket LCAs don't do anything but look cool (only half of each if unsprung weight)
*camber kits are really only necissary for R-compound rubber to help even out wear (IMO)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


The order should look more like this:

- rims & tires (#1 best handling mod)
- springs & shocks (perferably adjustable damping rate for tuning handeling)
- sway-bars (different combos produce different handling results)
- bushings (OEM rubber for street, Hard rubber & poly for race)
- chassis bracing ([&lt;street]tie bars----frame locks----roll bar----roll cage----stitch welding[race&gt;])


*aftermarket LCAs don't do anything but look cool (only half of each if unsprung weight)
*camber kits are really only necissary for R-compound rubber to help even out wear (IMO)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, the things I listed were just off the top of my head in no particular order. Although, I would agree with 94eg! on this one. Some people overlook the fact that alignment plays a big part too. You shouldn't expect to swap something out for an aftermarket part and have everything to still be cherry.

 

strut bars work.

they help stiffen the chassis.

they dont improve handling beyond achieving a stiffer chassis. theyre not supposed to directly improve handling. so to even compare it to a part that is part of the suspension, and then say it doesnt work, is fallacious.

i personally have felt the difference in adding a front upper strut bar in my crx. but thats the only one id bother with.

 

thanks for everyone opinion!!
learned a lot from you guys.

i also have skunk2 front camber kit. sry forgot to metion that.
im planning on getting a type r rear swaybar.
maybe upgrade my brake pads.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Voyage34 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

partly right. he alread siad he was running tokico illumina and ground control, which is just a small step down from the illustrious koni/gc setup, so good spring/shock combo is covered. though i would be interested in the spring rates.
poly bushings do help a bit, ive never heard definitive lap time or skidpad number differences, but they do increse the crispness of the handling, but the ride quality suffers.

upgrading from the stock gsr 14mm sway bar will do quite a bit, itr bar with a beaks kit or asr works well and will reduce both bodyroll and push in the corners
camber kits can offer better handling, not in and of themselves, but by adjusting for the given situation. unless you track the car and can take the time to adjust each setting they wont do a whole lot.
strut bars and tie bars are all primarily in locations that dont flex alot to begin with. if you want to add them to hang your laundry on thats fine, but you wont see much if any of a benefit, maybe a percieved feel enhanceemnt. a cage will stiffen more than any other mod you can do, but unless you drive everywhere with a harness and helmet they are a bit unsafe, like if you bash your head in on a cage bar in a crash. the rest of you will be fine but your head will be fucked

aftermarket lca's will do jack and ****. the stock ones dont flex appreciably to warrant replacement (unless the bushings are shot, in which case most of the bushings in aftermarket lcas are pretty crappy)
rims/tires is a very good suggestion OP what are you running for tires now?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have 205/50/r15 falken tires, forgot what kind. but i will forsure check and let you know.
i also runnin rota GT3. (if it matters)

 

it is slightly noticeable, not worth more than 30 bones though, i got my itr front upper strut bar for $20

 

i'm running the kumho spt in 205/50/15 now, used to have the 205/50/15 azenis 215 and those were wonderful. I've heard that the new 615's are even better. (don't expect many miles out of either of the falkens though)

 

ic thanks!!

 

i have a front strut bar, i can really tell the differnce between havin 1 and not havin 1, ur car will run more stable if u have it

 

It does work, but not very much. depends which brand and type you are buying, the normal 2 point strut does jack **** by its look IMO. I have a Spoon and swapped out by little to no feeling at all.

then i swap in a Rigid 3pt. and i think it does work a bit, in some case tho. the tower point is in V shape to cover the whole suspension tower. i can see the extra metal on top of the looks rather thin and weak stock suspension tower. might hold the shox in position somehow better during corners?? for the 3rd point, i think its useless as the firewall on a EK is already not stiff. i mean it wont help with the extra 2 bolts to screw. but then its a NON-adjustable. which i think most bars SHOULD be.

if this is a budget buy i would say go for Sway bars and a good set of suspension first. those strut bars last.