u guys got any links that got stroker kits for a gsr??

 

http://crower.com/cat/import/h...shtml

http://www.accountwizard.com/c...+Kits

http://www.raceeng.com

 

which 1 u guys recommend

 

crowers isn't bad

 

I recommend the "turbo" stroker, as in you skip all that and buy boost.

 

screw turbo....ALL-MOTOR

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSR KiNg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">screw turbo....ALL-MOTOR </TD></TR></TABLE>


Yea screw more power for less money!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cm zak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea screw more power for less money! </TD></TR></TABLE>

its hardly ever about the most power.

 

What kind of power do these stroker kits make? I would much rather the reliability of all motor.

 

yea true

 

reliability? if you do it right, then there won't be any problems..

 

Like said above how much power are these stroker kits making?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllMotorTeg91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like said above how much power are these stroker kits making?</TD></TR></TABLE>

not enough to justify the cost.....

but if you had to pick a stroker kit go with crower.

 

why not just get an LS crank /rods ..and high comp pistons???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ac_attak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of power do these stroker kits make? I would much rather the reliability of all motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What sounds more reliable, a 12:1 naturally aspirated motor that turns 10,000 RPM, or a 8.5:1 Turbo charged motor that has the ability to turn the boost down to practically nothing?

It is a matter of preference... I prefer Turbo.

To the original poster... the Crower kit is an excellent kit. With a stroker kit you need to plan your build ahead of time. For example, the 2.2 stroker kit is probably not a great match with Stage 3 cams. Reason being, as your stroke increases, so does your piston speed. Did you know that in 1994 when the B18C1 was released, it had a higher piston speed than any other motor sold in the United States? Nissan's QR25 motor (Sentra SE-R Spec V) now holds that honor. Do you really want to stroke your motor? A stock B18C1 has a higher piston speed than an average Formula One car. That is a lot of stress, and a longer stroke only increases this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tornadom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What sounds more reliable, a 12:1 naturally aspirated motor that turns 10,000 RPM, or a 8.5:1 Turbo charged motor that has the ability to turn the boost down to practically nothing?

It is a matter of preference... I prefer Turbo.

To the original poster... the Crower kit is an excellent kit. With a stroker kit you need to plan your build ahead of time. For example, the 2.2 stroker kit is probably not a great match with Stage 3 cams. Reason being, as your stroke increases, so does your piston speed. Did you know that in 1994 when the B18C1 was released, it had a higher piston speed than any other motor sold in the United States? Nissan's QR25 motor (Sentra SE-R Spec V) now holds that honor. Do you really want to stroke your motor? A stock B18C1 has a higher piston speed than an average Formula One car. That is a lot of stress, and a longer stroke only increases this.</TD></TR></TABLE>He's right... also the b18c1 was purposely de-stroked to make top end power, buy increasing the stroke you contradict this, which can be a formula for blown motor Spend the money on boost

 

The worst thing where i live is there is nobody to do the tuning and there is not even a dyno here on the island. I have probably a 16 hour drive plus a boat ride to get to the nearest dyno.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ac_attak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The worst thing where i live is there is nobody to do the tuning and there is not even a dyno here on the island. I have probably a 16 hour drive plus a boat ride to get to the nearest dyno.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A naturally aspirated setup will require just as much tuning and dyno time as a forced induction vehicle. If it is modified well beyond stock (by any means) it needs to have a good tune.

 

Oh yeah i know an all motor set up needs a lot of tuning as well.

There is a portable dyno that comes here once a year for about a week or so, but i dont think the guys running it are very good with tuning. Thats why it is all just a dream for me right now.

 

Just out of curiosity, where do you live?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tornadom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just out of curiosity, where do you live?</TD></TR></TABLE>Haha, i was wandering too...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97 GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Haha, i was wandering too... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think it is a small island off the eastern side of Canada.

 

Stroker kits are goin to come into play where a hardcore N/a guy is finding the statement, there's no replacement for displacement.. a Stroker kit will not make you lose any top end..reguardless of what people say.. a Stroked motor can just allow for differen't things..
A funny example..my buddy drives a 94 civic hatch, with a b17a1 in it..it has a stroker kit from crower, its stroked to a 1.95, but its a stock bore / stroke..
The car fully built with pistons/rods and cams and basically anything a n/a motor could have, on a sorry tune went 173whp..
After the stroke and a good tune, with bigger pistons, he went 197..
a stroker kit is a good investment.. to be honest..with a 1.8..there's ALOT of c1's and c5's making well into the 200's on the stock blocks..its the right tune and combo of parts that counts.

LOok at it this way..Longer STROKES = alot of torque..
Why do you think people use long bars or "cheater" bars to break bolts loose..the longer the handle the easier it is right?? you make and will make more power on a longer stroke..with the right combo you wont lose any top end..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tornadom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think it is a small island off the eastern side of Canada.</TD></TR></TABLE>Thats what i was thinkin' too... somewhere near the great lakes...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Stroker kit will not make you lose any top end..reguardless of what people say.. a Stroked motor can just allow for differen't things..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wasn't suggesting that he would lose top end, I was stating that the piston speed would increase from an already very high speed. The potential to break parts is greater as piston speeds increase, conversely the materials used to manufacture the stroker kits are stronger than that of the stock pieces. I am only stating that a stroked motor needs to be very well planed to see major gains. If you have a cam that makes power insanely high, but you can't safely rev high enough to reach the cam's power, then it will do you absolutely no good.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its stroked to a 1.95, but its a stock bore / stroke..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Other than increasing the bore or stroke, changing the size of the combustion chamber is the only way that I can think of to increase displacement. I don't think that it is possible for a B17 to become a 1.95 liter through head work alone.