Can anyone confirm that the new OEM replacement eg rear trailing arm bushings are the same as Mugen or is this a myth?

 

They look the same, they feel the same, but unless somebody has a durometer, I don't think it can be determined positively. I got a set of the Mugen ones, they look just like stock, they were only $40 more, and they seem to work very well, so hopefully I got some extra Mugen specialness for my $40.

 

same ****

 

wow, mugen rubber, ohoohohoho0o000o0

 

get the energy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Gambit- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get the energy. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No. Don't use polyurethane for the RTA bushing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No. Don't use polyurethane for the RTA bushing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used them, they were great until I pushed it too hard at the track and my RTA's bound up, flipping the *** end of the car out sideways. It was very exciting. If he wants to make his life more exciting, then I highly recommend the ES TA bushings. Now I use regular bushings, my life is much less exciting.

 

I have ES RTA bushings... this is why I pose my question, I'm looking to replace the ES RTA bushings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carbonk20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have ES RTA bushings... this is why I pose my question, I'm looking to replace the ES RTA bushings. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That was the best thing I ever did for my handling:


https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1589298

 

I read your post a couple of days ago. It was good. I just have a hard time shelling out the extra cash when it dosen't say Mugen all over the part (kidding).
I was posting to hopefully find a durometer test of oem vs. mugen. It might be a tall request, but I figured I would try..

 

Almost makes me want to drop $250 on a cheap durometer, almost.

 

me too... just to see.

 

So your mugens have been a good improvement over the ES? or is it still a little stiff in the ***?

 

There was a good thread about bushings in the road racing/ AutoX forum a few weeks ago. The guy posted what happened to his poly bushings and what new bushings he is using. If I find it I will post a link.

 

Found it. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1563815

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carbonk20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So your mugens have been a good improvement over the ES? or is it still a little stiff in the ***?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's much better. The ES bushings were tighter in that they had less play, but if I pushed the car too hard with them (generally under track conditions) the rear would suddenly swing out sideways without warning (very exciting at 70 MPH at Roebling Road). I'd read that because of the rotational motion of the RTA's, the ES bushings could cause them to bind if the RTA's moved too far, and JDogg had seen this behavior as well on other cars, so I tried the Mugens. I can push the car much harder through the corners now, and it gives up very gradually and evenly (24mm rear sway bar helps that some too). I can feel that the *** is looser, but it's not George Michael loose. I was so happy with them when I first tried them at VIR that I intentionally drifted through turn 14 a bunch of times just beacuse I could. I think the real answer is to drop the big bucks on something like the JHPUSA spherical bushing cup:

http://www.jhpusa.com/catalog/...d=893

But I wanted to try the rubber bushings to make sure the ES bushings were what was causing the instability before I went for the sphericals.


Since I removed mine I have heard from a couple of people that zeroing the rear toe will help the ES bushings work right, but I never tried it (I think stock rear toe is -2). I called ES when I first put the bushings in, because I had to go get it aligned anyway since I put in the whole kit, and they said to use OEM alignment settings with the ES bushings.

 

I'm assuming you have to drill holes for the spherical bushing cups to mount... I may go this route, this looks more suited to my application. Thanks for the link, I have never seen these before.