NEW VIDS - Check out the high oil pressure, vacuum gauge and wideband
http://media.putfile.com/idlefront
http://media.putfile.com/idlefront2


Today was the day, finally after almost 11 months of downtime due to a blown motor, 2 body overhauls and this motor build I finally got it to start today

I can only start it if I touch the gas lightly, starts pretty much right up but the gas has to be held down for it to keep idling. If you watch the video first, you can tell it just sounds like its missing or something. I dont know how to describe it, ive never heard a built motor.

Here are the specs
88 Crx si
D16a6 engine running turboedit basemap (xenocron), dsm 450's
Vitara pistons/eagle rods, built head delta 272 cam aem cam gear (advanced 3 degrees)
T3 .60/.63 turbo, 3" downpipe

http://media.putfile.com/D16a6-First-Start
http://media.putfile.com/d16a6startup2

*in the videos, first vid I didnt have anny coolant in the radiator, forgot my dad drained it, made the vid to watch for smoke and then rememberred, filled it up and made the second video, the squeeking (please excuse the high pitch squeeking) was that and goes away*


Only problem I can truly see that would cause the shitty idle could be my intake manifold, its a venom square manifold, pretty nice piece, but [b]I had to drill and tap holes for the iacv in the back, run a stainless line inside the manifold connecting the inside of the t/b to the iacv (connected to left side of iacv)

Im hoping you guys can give me the best and fastest ways to troubleshoot this idle and just poor running

It does have vitata pistons and is running open 3" downpipe


Modified by PINKS at 5:18 PM 5/5/2006

 

is called a basemap. it sounds like its fueling up bad, hard to tell anything w/out being tuned.

 

Well I dont want to ebring it to a tuner with problems that would make it so I couldnt be tuned

I have a wideband, forgot to turn it on

 

my advise would be hook up some type of exhaust, and turn on your wideband and watch a/f. just go over the basics a few more times.

 

Wideband has its own bung at the bottom of the downpipe that exits right under the firewall

 

okay, now turn it on and record the readings.

 

The car is not at my house

What would cause it to not stay idling and the car to sumble and die when you dont stay on the gas? Why would it do that?

 

BECAUSE ITS A BUILT MOTOR RUNNING A BASEMAP. ITS GETTING WAY TO MUCH FUEL MOST LIKELY. (dont take fuel away on my word) just get it to someone with a wideband and dyno.

 

Key word is most likely, I cant bring a car with problems to a tuner that you pay a lot of money for

To me its just not running right at all, I need it to idle to drive around before I book a tune, this car wont idle, probably cant drive

The basemap was done by xenocron and he knows his **** and said he woulda made the basemap pretty good and clean

Just looking for advise on why it wont idle and why it sounds like its missing or if its just the vitara pistons

 

The noise is the waterpump, its gone now
Im debating on what I have to do to get it to run nice though, rip this intake manifold off or keep it on


What can I do to make it run ****

 

why dont you tell us what kind of reading your getting on your wide band? if its running lean it would be really rough, its its rich its kind of boggy.

 

Well I ust spent 30 min trouble shooting and I found the problem for the idle I believe

I first checked my tps and it was dead perfect,

As I stated I couldnt get the car to idle without keeping my foot on the gas, so I placed a brick there and got the idle to what seemed like 1500 or so rpm, probably less

then I started checking for leaks, just spraying around with carb cleaner

Few vacuum lines, tried to get all around the t/b, then I hit the top of the intake (between 2-3 runners)

<FONT SIZE="20">BAM! 3000+ rpm </FONT>

Holy ****!

Did it a few times and the engine jumped right to life, sounded pretty mint up in those rpms as well, so I just threw a little copper gasket silicone where I thought I was spraying and I will check back tomorrow

A few problems though, my fan never came on, car musta been idling for 10 min and the temp needle moved up to about 40% but the fan never came on, I think I might have to hard wire it to a power switch though, I just solderred it to my stock wiring (12" slim fan)

Im also getting a good bit of WHITE smoke. Might just be from running rich or the vauum leak I dunno but theres a good bit of fairly dense smoke plooming from under the car, that may be assembly oil, but the cars been running for 10 min now, shouldnt it be gone?

For my vacuum readings, I was getting like -12 on the boost gauge whatever that means, needle was pretty steady, bounced with the engine going up and down a bit. Dunno if thats good or not

My wideband reading Im rpetty sure was wrong, it was holding steady at 10.13, never moving, a few times I seen it say 10.38, it was connected and working I beleive but I dunno, I do have a white wire form it left unconnected, I think thats for the wideband datalogging though. Its a twintec digital display wideband

SO tomorrow im going to try and fix the leak and hope it works. My tach doesnt seem to work either, wonder wtf I did there

 

bump

 

NEW VIDS - Check out the high oil pressure, vacuum gauge and wideband
http://media.putfile.com/idlefront
http://media.putfile.com/idlefront2

 

1). You don't fix a gasket leak by rubbing some retarded liquid gasket on it. Fix it right, or don't come crying when it becomes an issue again

2). White smoke is not from running rich. Rich = black smoke. White = coolant.

3). Why would you come in here asking questions about your problem ignoring any statements about having to tune your car? A basemap is a basemap. Its not going to matter if god himself makes it (I guess he might be able to make a perfect map ) it still needs to be tuned.

 

I thought the white could be from the engine assembly oil, but I dunno, it was pretty thick smoke

 

well depending on how the block was prepped the smoke could be from the piston rings not seated yet, but i doubt it. is it thick white smoke, or look like condensation.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well depending on how the block was prepped the smoke could be from the piston rings not seated yet, but i doubt it. is it thick white smoke, or look like condensation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've built close to 20 engines now and NEVER had one smoke white when it first fired up.

 

Its not like thick smoke, just a lot of it, but its windy, just is a fairly constant low density cloud I guess

Something missing?




Im pretty sure this manifold is the cause of my white smoke and shitty idle just the way I had to rig up the iacv and such, so its being swapped for a hogged out Y8 manifold and JE 64mm throttle body, just need to grab a new gasket from honda

I really dunno what to say, I figured the vacuum leak must be coming fomr the manifold or something, must be leaking coolant?

Where else can coolant be burnt from, on a new rebuilt motor

Hopefully this new manifold solves some problems, I'll have to redo all my vacuum lines and turbo wastegate and bov lines though

 

I think thats a knock-off venom manifold.

 

Its a venom mani, bought and came with the box and was anodized red with "venom" on it, I painted it silver, see how nice gas it to the paint? stripped it

 

the smoke could be the coolant leaking at the manifold gasket, but i would be leary of it if it continues. im assuming you got the block decked and head milled to make sure the surface was flat, using head studs instead of the old stretched bolts???

 

Head was partially used but perfectly clean, block was machined before it got into my hands, looked freshly machined, arp headstuds

The intake gasket looked mint though, no signs of leakage

 

you might have a problem then. you did go OEM headgastet right.

 

d16y8 straight from the factory