Which brake pads to use?
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From: Dreaming of east Tennessee!
Which brake pads to use?
I'm staying w/ the stock rotors & calipers. Also changing to braided lines.
I don't auto-xx the car but want better stopping power than stock. Thanks.
I don't auto-xx the car but want better stopping power than stock. Thanks.
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Re: Which brake pads to use? (HYREV2NR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYREV2NR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't auto-xx the car but want better stopping power than stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since you're not autocrossing or tracking your car, no brake pads will give you better stopping power than the stock ones. Your stopping distances are limited by your tires, not your brake pads.
Oh, and I love the Cobalt pads too. That's what I use on my car, but I'm tracking it with R compound track tires. Unfortunately, they're not available for a couple of months while Cobalt moves and switches suppliers.
Other decent alternatives for street use include the Hawk HP Plus and the Carbotech Bobcat...
Since you're not autocrossing or tracking your car, no brake pads will give you better stopping power than the stock ones. Your stopping distances are limited by your tires, not your brake pads.
Oh, and I love the Cobalt pads too. That's what I use on my car, but I'm tracking it with R compound track tires. Unfortunately, they're not available for a couple of months while Cobalt moves and switches suppliers.
Other decent alternatives for street use include the Hawk HP Plus and the Carbotech Bobcat...
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Re: Which brake pads to use? (jaa1311)
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I've been using ultimates for the last 6 months and really like them, they have a good cold bite and work brilliantly when heated up with no fade even on the hardest street braking.
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From: Carolinas
Re: (BlkTypeRR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlkTypeRR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hawk HP+
Their noisy and they dust like a ****, but man to they work good!</TD></TR></TABLE>
What he said. I have them on mine too and have no complaints (noise and dust were not my top requirements!). They are great for autox/daily driving.
Their noisy and they dust like a ****, but man to they work good!</TD></TR></TABLE>
What he said. I have them on mine too and have no complaints (noise and dust were not my top requirements!). They are great for autox/daily driving.
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From: Armed and Ready
Carbotech Panther+ pads are pretty choice for street use as well, but like mentioned above R compound tires will be best with them.
dusty, but not too much noise... just gotta stop by a pressure washer every few days and give the wheels a decent spray down is all i do
dusty, but not too much noise... just gotta stop by a pressure washer every few days and give the wheels a decent spray down is all i do
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From: kuidaore
Re: Which brake pads to use? (nsxtasy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Since you're not autocrossing or tracking your car, no brake pads will give you better stopping power than the stock ones. Your stopping distances are limited by your tires, not your brake pads.
Oh, and I love the Cobalt pads too. That's what I use on my car, but I'm tracking it with R compound track tires. Unfortunately, they're not available for a couple of months while Cobalt moves and switches suppliers.
Other decent alternatives for street use include the Hawk HP Plus and the Carbotech Bobcat...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
wut he said
plus why exactly are you going to SS lines? are your stock lines leaking or something? And or if you're dead set on SS lines I hope you know the pros and cons and what to look for when deciding on a brand.
Since you're not autocrossing or tracking your car, no brake pads will give you better stopping power than the stock ones. Your stopping distances are limited by your tires, not your brake pads.
Oh, and I love the Cobalt pads too. That's what I use on my car, but I'm tracking it with R compound track tires. Unfortunately, they're not available for a couple of months while Cobalt moves and switches suppliers.
Other decent alternatives for street use include the Hawk HP Plus and the Carbotech Bobcat...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
wut he saidplus why exactly are you going to SS lines? are your stock lines leaking or something? And or if you're dead set on SS lines I hope you know the pros and cons and what to look for when deciding on a brand.
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From: d, co, usa
Re: Which brake pads to use? (1GreyTeg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> wut he said
plus why exactly are you going to SS lines? are your stock lines leaking or something? And or if you're dead set on SS lines I hope you know the pros and cons and what to look for when deciding on a brand.</TD></TR></TABLE>
have any tips?
wut he saidplus why exactly are you going to SS lines? are your stock lines leaking or something? And or if you're dead set on SS lines I hope you know the pros and cons and what to look for when deciding on a brand.</TD></TR></TABLE>
have any tips?
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From: kuidaore
Re: Which brake pads to use? (ildknyli)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ildknyli »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
have any tips?</TD></TR></TABLE>
tips about what? SS brake lines?
Well first off they're not neccessary for street driving, heck they're not even neccessary for novice track driving. You also should look at coated lines since non coated lines can get dirt particles lodged in the braids and actually puncture the inner line (not a good thing). So coated lines are key IE Stoptech, and a few others but Stoptech comes to mind immediately. If you do go non coated though (Goodridge) be ready to inspect them often and or replace them after a year or so depending on wear and tear. Real race teams replace these items often and have them on a strict list of inspection and quality control as well as maintenance.
A pro would be they're tougher than OEM rubber line, so they wouldn't neccessarily get damaged or punctured as easily as an OEM rubber line but this is not something of major concern in comparison for our purpose.
The Benefit of SS lines is pedal pressure feedback. And if you can't appreciate that then they're not only not neccessary but ya might want to consider spending the money elsewhere or saving it for something else.
They won't give you a firmer pedal and they alone will not allow the car to stop quicker or shorter.
Etc, etc, so on and so forth, you can use the dreaded Search for alot more info covered many times before in the archives.
have any tips?</TD></TR></TABLE>
tips about what? SS brake lines?
Well first off they're not neccessary for street driving, heck they're not even neccessary for novice track driving. You also should look at coated lines since non coated lines can get dirt particles lodged in the braids and actually puncture the inner line (not a good thing). So coated lines are key IE Stoptech, and a few others but Stoptech comes to mind immediately. If you do go non coated though (Goodridge) be ready to inspect them often and or replace them after a year or so depending on wear and tear. Real race teams replace these items often and have them on a strict list of inspection and quality control as well as maintenance.
A pro would be they're tougher than OEM rubber line, so they wouldn't neccessarily get damaged or punctured as easily as an OEM rubber line but this is not something of major concern in comparison for our purpose.
The Benefit of SS lines is pedal pressure feedback. And if you can't appreciate that then they're not only not neccessary but ya might want to consider spending the money elsewhere or saving it for something else.
They won't give you a firmer pedal and they alone will not allow the car to stop quicker or shorter.
Etc, etc, so on and so forth, you can use the dreaded Search for alot more info covered many times before in the archives.
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From: Dreaming of east Tennessee!
Thanks for all the positive feedback from U guys.
I know the tires play a major part in stopping power & I planned on getting the BF, G Force T/A's. As for the braided lines, I just want a real solid feel to the brakes.
I've also heard that switching to Motul brake fluid helps but I don't have any concrete evidence to back it up.
I know the tires play a major part in stopping power & I planned on getting the BF, G Force T/A's. As for the braided lines, I just want a real solid feel to the brakes.
I've also heard that switching to Motul brake fluid helps but I don't have any concrete evidence to back it up.
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From: kuidaore
Re: (HYREV2NR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYREV2NR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for all the positive feedback from U guys.
I know the tires play a major part in stopping power & I planned on getting the BF, G Force T/A's. As for the braided lines, I just want a real solid feel to the brakes.
I've also heard that switching to Motul brake fluid helps but I don't have any concrete evidence to back it up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Depending on your budget, driving style and a host of other stuff I might choose a different tire.
Dunno what you mean by "solid feel" with the lines?
Why are you considering switching to that fluid? It won't give you a more solid or firm pedal feel and won't help you stop better especially for daily driving. Just overkill and over spending. Thats High temp racing brake fluid. You already said you don't compete with the car & haven't tracked it yet. I'd stick with whatever fluid you're running now as long as it's fresh and at least DOT3.
Personally for me I'd go with the stickiest tires that would fit my budget and applications, fresh brake fluid flush with quality DOT3 fluid and either some OEM pads, Hawk HP+'s or GT sport pads and absolutely some Autozone OEM replacement rotors.
Done deal, then just go drive it and be happy.
I know the tires play a major part in stopping power & I planned on getting the BF, G Force T/A's. As for the braided lines, I just want a real solid feel to the brakes.
I've also heard that switching to Motul brake fluid helps but I don't have any concrete evidence to back it up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Depending on your budget, driving style and a host of other stuff I might choose a different tire.
Dunno what you mean by "solid feel" with the lines?
Why are you considering switching to that fluid? It won't give you a more solid or firm pedal feel and won't help you stop better especially for daily driving. Just overkill and over spending. Thats High temp racing brake fluid. You already said you don't compete with the car & haven't tracked it yet. I'd stick with whatever fluid you're running now as long as it's fresh and at least DOT3.
Personally for me I'd go with the stickiest tires that would fit my budget and applications, fresh brake fluid flush with quality DOT3 fluid and either some OEM pads, Hawk HP+'s or GT sport pads and absolutely some Autozone OEM replacement rotors.
Done deal, then just go drive it and be happy.
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Re: (1GreyTeg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Depending on your budget, driving style and a host of other stuff I might choose a different tire.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So would I. BFG makes some good tires, but they are generally priced much higher than similar tires from other manufacturers. So you can get better tires for the same money, or similar tires for less money. I could give you examples, but I'm not sure which tire you're referring to, since they make a lot of models of tires with the "g-Force T/A" name on them.
Tire recommendation: If you tell me what you're looking for, I can tell you which would be the best choice for you. Or, for a description of the very best tires for the ITR in various price and performance categories, and what kind of usage each one might best fit, see this post.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why are you considering switching to that fluid? It won't give you a more solid or firm pedal feel and won't help you stop better especially for daily driving. Just overkill and over spending. Thats High temp racing brake fluid. You already said you don't compete with the car & haven't tracked it yet. I'd stick with whatever fluid you're running now as long as it's fresh and at least DOT3.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I somewhat agree with Anton on this, but not exactly. Motul RBF 600 does indeed have high boiling temperatures. However, it's not all that expensive ($12-15 for a half-liter bottle). It's a great choice for those who track their cars or autocross them, and works just fine for street cars as well. However, if you aren't tracking or autocrossing your car, then Anton is right, you don't really need it, and can get by with any decent DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid.
Fluid recommendation: If you're not tracking your car, you only need to change your brake fluid once every two years. If you've changed it in the past two years and don't plan to track your car, I would just leave it alone. If you need to change it and don't plan to track your car, do so with DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid. If you think you might track your car within the next year, then sure, the Motul RBF 600 is a good choice.
Rotor recommendation: Anton also mentioned brake rotors, but you didn't. If yours are not warped or cracked or too thin, then there's no need to replace them. If you do need to replace them, then the Autozone rotors he mentioned ($25 front, $50 rear) are a good choice.
Brake line recommendation: The only reason to go to stainless steel brake lines is if your pedal feels "spongy" due to swelling of your stock lines. If you don't have a spongy feel to the pedal (and I'm betting you don't), then there's no need to swap the lines.
Brake pad recommendation: If your pads are OEM or better, and they still have plenty of thickness to them, then just keep using them. If they're crappy generic aftermarket pads (like you would get at your neighborhood auto parts store), or if the pad material is thin, then replace them with one of the recommendations above.
Summary: For better stopping power, get the best, stickiest tires you can afford. You only need to replace your brake fluid, rotors, lines, and pads if you need to (as noted in this post). With great tires and any brake parts that need replacement, you should be good to go.
So would I. BFG makes some good tires, but they are generally priced much higher than similar tires from other manufacturers. So you can get better tires for the same money, or similar tires for less money. I could give you examples, but I'm not sure which tire you're referring to, since they make a lot of models of tires with the "g-Force T/A" name on them.
Tire recommendation: If you tell me what you're looking for, I can tell you which would be the best choice for you. Or, for a description of the very best tires for the ITR in various price and performance categories, and what kind of usage each one might best fit, see this post.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why are you considering switching to that fluid? It won't give you a more solid or firm pedal feel and won't help you stop better especially for daily driving. Just overkill and over spending. Thats High temp racing brake fluid. You already said you don't compete with the car & haven't tracked it yet. I'd stick with whatever fluid you're running now as long as it's fresh and at least DOT3.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I somewhat agree with Anton on this, but not exactly. Motul RBF 600 does indeed have high boiling temperatures. However, it's not all that expensive ($12-15 for a half-liter bottle). It's a great choice for those who track their cars or autocross them, and works just fine for street cars as well. However, if you aren't tracking or autocrossing your car, then Anton is right, you don't really need it, and can get by with any decent DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid.
Fluid recommendation: If you're not tracking your car, you only need to change your brake fluid once every two years. If you've changed it in the past two years and don't plan to track your car, I would just leave it alone. If you need to change it and don't plan to track your car, do so with DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid. If you think you might track your car within the next year, then sure, the Motul RBF 600 is a good choice.
Rotor recommendation: Anton also mentioned brake rotors, but you didn't. If yours are not warped or cracked or too thin, then there's no need to replace them. If you do need to replace them, then the Autozone rotors he mentioned ($25 front, $50 rear) are a good choice.
Brake line recommendation: The only reason to go to stainless steel brake lines is if your pedal feels "spongy" due to swelling of your stock lines. If you don't have a spongy feel to the pedal (and I'm betting you don't), then there's no need to swap the lines.
Brake pad recommendation: If your pads are OEM or better, and they still have plenty of thickness to them, then just keep using them. If they're crappy generic aftermarket pads (like you would get at your neighborhood auto parts store), or if the pad material is thin, then replace them with one of the recommendations above.
Summary: For better stopping power, get the best, stickiest tires you can afford. You only need to replace your brake fluid, rotors, lines, and pads if you need to (as noted in this post). With great tires and any brake parts that need replacement, you should be good to go.
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From: Dreaming of east Tennessee!
Re: Which brake pads to use? (1GreyTeg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
tips about what? SS brake lines?
Well first off they're not neccessary for street driving, heck they're not even neccessary for novice track driving. You also should look at coated lines since non coated lines can get dirt particles lodged in the braids and actually puncture the inner line (not a good thing). So coated lines are key IE Stoptech, and a few others but Stoptech comes to mind immediately. If you do go non coated though (Goodridge) be ready to inspect them often and or replace them after a year or so depending on wear and tear. Real race teams replace these items often and have them on a strict list of inspection and quality control as well as maintenance.
A pro would be they're tougher than OEM rubber line, so they wouldn't neccessarily get damaged or punctured as easily as an OEM rubber line but this is not something of major concern in comparison for our purpose.
The Benefit of SS lines is pedal pressure feedback. And if you can't appreciate that then they're not only not neccessary but ya might want to consider spending the money elsewhere or saving it for something else.
They won't give you a firmer pedal and they alone will not allow the car to stop quicker or shorter.
Etc, etc, so on and so forth, you can use the dreaded Search for alot more info covered many times before in the archives.</TD></TR></TABLE>First time I've ever heard of this.
tips about what? SS brake lines?
Well first off they're not neccessary for street driving, heck they're not even neccessary for novice track driving. You also should look at coated lines since non coated lines can get dirt particles lodged in the braids and actually puncture the inner line (not a good thing). So coated lines are key IE Stoptech, and a few others but Stoptech comes to mind immediately. If you do go non coated though (Goodridge) be ready to inspect them often and or replace them after a year or so depending on wear and tear. Real race teams replace these items often and have them on a strict list of inspection and quality control as well as maintenance.
A pro would be they're tougher than OEM rubber line, so they wouldn't neccessarily get damaged or punctured as easily as an OEM rubber line but this is not something of major concern in comparison for our purpose.
The Benefit of SS lines is pedal pressure feedback. And if you can't appreciate that then they're not only not neccessary but ya might want to consider spending the money elsewhere or saving it for something else.
They won't give you a firmer pedal and they alone will not allow the car to stop quicker or shorter.
Etc, etc, so on and so forth, you can use the dreaded Search for alot more info covered many times before in the archives.</TD></TR></TABLE>First time I've ever heard of this.
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From: kuidaore
Re: Which brake pads to use? (HYREV2NR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYREV2NR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First time I've ever heard of this. </TD></TR></TABLE>
nuthin for nuthin but what Have you heard if you were already set on buying and installing then?
nuthin for nuthin but what Have you heard if you were already set on buying and installing then?
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From: Harwood, Md, America
Re: Which brake pads to use? (1GreyTeg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
tips about what? SS brake lines?
Well first off they're not neccessary for street driving, heck they're not even neccessary for novice track driving. You also should look at coated lines since non coated lines can get dirt particles lodged in the braids and actually puncture the inner line (not a good thing). So coated lines are key IE Stoptech, and a few others but Stoptech comes to mind immediately. If you do go non coated though (Goodridge) be ready to inspect them often and or replace them after a year or so depending on wear and tear. Real race teams replace these items often and have them on a strict list of inspection and quality control as well as maintenance.
A pro would be they're tougher than OEM rubber line, so they wouldn't neccessarily get damaged or punctured as easily as an OEM rubber line but this is not something of major concern in comparison for our purpose.
The Benefit of SS lines is pedal pressure feedback. And if you can't appreciate that then they're not only not neccessary but ya might want to consider spending the money elsewhere or saving it for something else.
They won't give you a firmer pedal and they alone will not allow the car to stop quicker or shorter.
Etc, etc, so on and so forth, you can use the dreaded Search for alot more info covered many times before in the archives.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very true. I just recently made the switch to SS lines and ive been tracking my car heavily for 4 years. The stock lines are more then enough for street driving
tips about what? SS brake lines?
Well first off they're not neccessary for street driving, heck they're not even neccessary for novice track driving. You also should look at coated lines since non coated lines can get dirt particles lodged in the braids and actually puncture the inner line (not a good thing). So coated lines are key IE Stoptech, and a few others but Stoptech comes to mind immediately. If you do go non coated though (Goodridge) be ready to inspect them often and or replace them after a year or so depending on wear and tear. Real race teams replace these items often and have them on a strict list of inspection and quality control as well as maintenance.
A pro would be they're tougher than OEM rubber line, so they wouldn't neccessarily get damaged or punctured as easily as an OEM rubber line but this is not something of major concern in comparison for our purpose.
The Benefit of SS lines is pedal pressure feedback. And if you can't appreciate that then they're not only not neccessary but ya might want to consider spending the money elsewhere or saving it for something else.
They won't give you a firmer pedal and they alone will not allow the car to stop quicker or shorter.
Etc, etc, so on and so forth, you can use the dreaded Search for alot more info covered many times before in the archives.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very true. I just recently made the switch to SS lines and ive been tracking my car heavily for 4 years. The stock lines are more then enough for street driving
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From: Dreaming of east Tennessee!
Re: Which brake pads to use? (1GreyTeg)
See, this is where I appreciate all the helpful advise from those who know (& or) been down the road of experience. I'm not bent on getting them for now anyways because I'm doing a full engine build very soon. I was just thinking of a few minor things to do while the R is in down-time.
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From: ChicagO, Il
Re: (BlkTypeRR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlkTypeRR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hawk HP+
Their noisy and they dust like a ****, but man to they work good!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Their noisy and they dust like a ****, but man to they work good!</TD></TR></TABLE>
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From: Chicagoland, IL
Re: Which brake pads to use? (HYREV2NR)
Stay away from stainless steel lines. Seems like I've heard of more SS lines failing than OEM.
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Pe...s.htm
Long article-- but don't get them.
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Pe...s.htm
Long article-- but don't get them.
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From: livermore, ca, us
Re: (TypeR 599)
i've got project Mu and love them, have them w/ their drilled/slotted rotors, stock calipers, Mu pads, and braided lines and my typeR brakes better than my evo did...considering the limits of tires.
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From: Edgewater, MD / La Jolla, CA
Re: (KendonB19C5T)
You live in a warm climate, so that's good (some pads will never heat up if you're in an ambient cold area)
Axxis Ultimates are really great. I'm currently running Cobalt GT Sports in the front and Hawk HPS (eBay like $30 shipped) in the rear. The HPS are a little weaker than the Ultimates but are great for around the town.
Axxis Ultimates are really great. I'm currently running Cobalt GT Sports in the front and Hawk HPS (eBay like $30 shipped) in the rear. The HPS are a little weaker than the Ultimates but are great for around the town.