Ok so it finally started getting warm in ohio, I picked this car up to be a daily driver this winter and it ran fine but lately it seems that the car will not start when it is hot. for example I wake up to go to work car starts fine, drive to work turn off and right back on its ok but if i get out and go back to it twenty mins later it wont start it has to sit for an hour plus cool down then it starts. many people said it was the main relay i cant even seem to find this in the car shop manual tells me its a 7 pin connector (nothing found)

Car has an engine start button and to start it has to be on position 2 with the key it seemed that it wasnt getting fuel at that point all the time so we metered it and all seemed fine but hooked up a relay direct to the pump (positive, ground, acc., and to the black/yellow (pos for fuel pump) this still did not work.

I don't realy know what else to do when i get in the car hot it just cranks someone help fix this car its such a bad *** daily driver i wanna keep it.

 

could be any number of things

test your ignition module
test your fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump
It could be main relay but that usually is not a problem on 5th gen cars

 

year and model ??

yep it could be the main relay ...
first off, when it does not start , you need to verify if it is lack of gas or spark,,
if lack of gas i would look at the main relay first,,relay located under dash , left side,
if lack of spark,, ignitor, coil,

 

i saw alot of main relays on 94-97 accords and even started seeing them on 98's last summer

 

Get the area around the car nice and quiet. sit in the car with the windows up, turn th key to on without starting it. Watch your check engine light, when it goes off you should hear a click. If not your main relay is bad.
The main relay is under the drivers side dash on the outer wall of the car. Someone on here can post apicture of it, or mabye i have one to post.


Modified by MooGoCow3 at 5:34 AM 5/1/2006

 

It looks something like this.

 

thats the problem the car has no main relay I pulled appart the entire dash there were two behind the cd player and one under the dash left side that controls the heater. year make and model is 94 accord wagon with a 95 JDM h22

 

Unless someone hacked up the wire harness during the install it has a main relay.

 

i think it was a hacked up harness...unfortunately...

 

first up
sweet *** ride !!!
my buddy had a 90 wagon with h22 swap in her
cl interior
all the bolt ons and was making like 220whp with her

in your situation, I would bring it to someone
if you did the swap urself, and you hacked up the wiring, it's gonna be a bitch to re-wire but you need to !!

pretty sure that u cannot run her without the main relay

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLKCivicPorscheStyle* &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think it was a hacked up harness...unfortunately...</TD></TR></TABLE>

if the car has been starting , and it does not start only when hot,, nobody hacked the harness,, otherwise the car would not styart in the first place,,,,,,

relay is under dash, located on the rt side of the steering column,,
car will not start at all hot or cold if relay is missing or wiring harness has been cut

 

Mabye it was relocated for space reasons? I don't know, I just can't mentally justify removing or moving a main relay. If it has been cut out what is replacing it?
It's really buried in the dash your not going to find it for the first time unless your on your back looking up into the dash

 

I really dont know how it started before, I pulled the whole dash off and got on my back seats were out and there was no main relay that i could see, i looked hard I want this thing fixed. So i unpluged positive at the fuel pump and ran a relay (pos, neg, acc. and pos to the fuel pump) that way any time car is on accessory the fuel pump is running. So it cant be a problem with the main relay. Also replaced rotor its getting spark.

 

Honestly not knowing about this hack job I really can't help you. I can look at the honda electical manual but that's not going to apply in this case.

 

Ok so today I tried to replace the fuel pump with a walbro 255 I had. The car ran worse (too rich) then the problem still occured. I pulled into chick fil a and 20mon later tried to start the car. when car was put on accessorie i could hear the fuel pump kick on but the car just cranked and cranked and cranked. I'm totally out of ideas i dont know what to do someone please help.

Also if anyone wants to purchase car as is I have put 4 new tires on as well as new bumper lenses, new clutch and lightened flywheel, oil was just changed I would ask only 8000 which is what i paid for the car.













H22A Accord SiR engine swap

auto. to manual swap

DC Sports header

Injen intake

AEM tru-time adjustable cam gears

Unorthodox Racing main crank pully

Bosch Platinum spark plugs

Magnecor spark plug wires

STR fuel rail

Tsudo front and rear strut tower bars

JDM/ true HID headlights

Mugen grill

Versus carbon fiber hood

JDM auto-folding side mirrors

Apexi WS coilover kit

Brembo big brake kit conversion

Skunk2 extended racing wheel studs

Brembo cross-drilled rear rotors

Suspension Techniques front and rear sway bars

18" custom powder coated Racing Hart C5 wheels w/Nitto Neo Gen tires

Imported custom Apexi exhaust

Sparco Torino racing seats

Sparco steering wheel

Sparco shift ****

Forbidden Motorsports short shifter (not an adapter)

Momo leather shift boot

JDM SiR Tach gauge cluster (so the RPM redline is correct for
the engine)

The speedo. is from a manual Accord so the auto. shift select lights are not there

custom molded piller guage pod with air/fuel meter and boost guage

Ferrari sounding air horns

The car was just repainted, no dings, dents, or rust.

This is, in fact, the wagon that was on the cover of speed, style, and sound magazine.

 

ok heres a question for you. When you turn the key to on what does the check engine light do?

 

i work at an iport salvage yard it does have a main relay above left kick panel it a b** to get to get down by kick panel on left side look straight up

 

ur car is nice

 

i say its a faulty ignition control module, ive had same symptoms and it was always the problem...like a $70 dollar part and a 15min job...

 

the check engine light comes on it has been since i bought the car unfortunately its the "JDM" engine and no dealer has the thing to check the codes.

 

dude who did you buy this from ?
bring it to a honda mechanic ( not a dealership ) in your area

buy a 12 pack and make a day of it ...
don't sell her she's magical !!

 

All you have to do is jump the 2 pin connector at the right side under the dash (if that's still there) And every dealer has the 3 pin adapter to allow the PGm tester or the HDS tablet to communicate with the car.
If you need more instructions the procedure is in one of the stickied threads at the top of the forum.

 

ok so heres the deal the car is no longer for sale its a peice of **** but i love it and want to fix and keep it (i feel like a DSM owner) I found the main relay good lookin out to the guy that works at the junkyard. We resoldered it and that did not work. We are in the process of replacing the thermostat but i dont really thing thats it either bc my temp gauge never really goes out of control. I have an SCI-L and the rest of the MSD ignition set up ready to go in the car that fixes the spark problem but I run into another. To run an external coil you have to have a cap that can do that. Prelude's in america come factory with an external coil so MSD doesnt sell a cap to do this for the H series but of course the JDM engine has an internal coil!!! so what cap do i get to do this will a b series fit or can i use an OEM replacement american Hseries? wtf?!? jdm sucks

 

for the cap, use a 99-00 civic si

 

sweet thanks