alright, I bought a civic hatch on here less than a month ago from a guy who said that all the car needed was a tps sensor and a distributor. I bought a brand new distributor and put it one and the car fires up and runs like it is missing or has a HUGE cam in it and it won't rev past 4000 rpms. anyway there is a ton of smoke pouring out of the exhaust from the smell it is fuel smoke. I am thinking that the ecu is fried or it is in the wiring, we just went through the harness today and cleaned up the hack job of wiring but it made no difference. We placed another p28 ecu in it and the car still ran rough but there was no more fuel smoke and as soon as you try to give it gas, the car dies. I decided to try a p06 ecu for the hell of it and same thing, ran rough at idle but no fuel smoke and as soon as you press the gas it dies. My girl has a h22 prelude and I am going to try her ecu next. ANY other suggestions? I am almost tired of dealing with this thing and might sell it.

 

anyone have any ideas?

 

Its not going to run well on those ecus. Either run a p13 (prelude), or a chipped ecu with prelude fuel and ignition maps on the chip.

 

the T-belt could be placed on wrong

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22a_junkie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I decided to try a p06 ecu for the hell of it and same thing, ran rough at idle but no fuel smoke and as soon as you press the gas it dies. My girl has a h22 prelude and I am going to try her ecu next. ANY other suggestions? I am almost tired of dealing with this thing and might sell it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

uhhh.. you cant just stick any ecu on any engine and expect it to run right.

Dont be a girl and let you emotions have hte best of you. If you do sell the swap than PM me, i love low balling people who are in this situation. Most hybrid swaps have a headache or two to deal with along the way - it's normal.

Anyway, Use a p13 or an "h22" chipped p28 and go from there - you have a new distributer so that eliminates quite a few possibilities. I'd throw a set of new OEM wires on it for good measure also.

 

Yeah, I changed my tampon so I am going to stick with it for now. We were just trying to see if it would run any better with any different ecu, because we were trying to determine if the ecu that was in it was bad, which i think something is wrong with it because you can plug that ecu into any car and it will only rev to 4000 rpms and it runs retarded rich. We changed the spark plugs because they were burnt to a crisp fouled. I will have to sneak my girlfriends ecu out of her car to test

 

revving to 4k means that something is usually wired way wrong an the ecu thinks there are engine related problems. do you have a solid check engine light?

 

Yeah the wiring is all jacked up on this car. the check engine light is on and so is the cruise control light.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22a_junkie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah the wiring is all jacked up on this car. the check engine light is on and so is the cruise control light. </TD></TR></TABLE>

get the CEL code, that'll help a lot.

 

we put the computer in my 95 dx and it came back as a code zero ecu fault. I will read the codes on the car when i get home

 

make sure the cams are set right at TDC and your firing order is correct.

 

i would just replace the harness so it can be wire right.

 

Looks like you have a lot of problems. Get your girl's ecu. Check the CELs, fix the wiring.

 

OK, Well I took the p13 ecu out of my girl's car and plugged it into my car. The car did the same thing as it did running on the p28 ecu's from the civics. rough idle, tons of fuel smoke and as soon as you press the gas pedal down it dies. I am lost, how can the known good ecu's make the car idle like **** and not even accelerate whatsoever but the ecu that came with it the car will at least stay running and you can rev up the car to 4000rpms?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22a_junkie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, Well I took the p13 ecu out of my girl's car and plugged it into my car. The car did the same thing as it did running on the p28 ecu's from the civics. rough idle, tons of fuel smoke and as soon as you press the gas pedal down it dies. I am lost, how can the known good ecu's make the car idle like **** and not even accelerate whatsoever but the ecu that came with it the car will at least stay running and you can rev up the car to 4000rpms?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good start!

..but forget about the 'ecu that came with the car' for now. keep that p13 in there for troubleshooting.

Is the distributer brand new?
Are you 110% sure the firing order is right?
Has a new timing belt or cam gears been installed since the last time the motor ran good?
Did you check the error codes when you had the p13 in?
Didyou check the tps voltage after you isntalled it?

Keep in mind that you have a whole prelude to help you troubleshoot! you can check voltages on all the important sensors, check firing order.. check TDC on the timing belt..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22a_junkie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we put the computer in my 95 dx and it came back as a code zero ecu fault. I will read the codes on the car when i get home</TD></TR></TABLE>

once the ECU is unplugged for a few seconds the error codes disappear.. you can not check the codes on a different car.

 

Finally got the hatch home last night and pulled it into the garage tonight. I have the cam gears set to the proper marks but I am unsure of what the crank should be aligned to. the lower timing cover is on currently so I don't know what to guage the crank pulley, it has two holes in it but I don't know what they should be facing. I also need to lean out the air fuel mixture somehow because it runs so rich right now that it is fouling out plugs in about 20 min. of run time. what is the sensor located to the right of the crank pulley just behind it? i would like to fix it but i also have it for sale on here as is for 2,500. any help is appreciated

 

any ideas?

 

anyone?

 

Are the injectors stock? When you rplaced the TPS did you adjust it? Too many factors. If the car is that messed up run the car until the CEL comes back on.

 

You need to calm down and do one thing at a time, you said it needed a TPS, and you never fixed it, and stop switching ecu's its not the ecu's fault

 

I can't see how a TPS can do all of that though

 

i had the same problem (broken TPS - get a whole new throttle bodywhich came with TPS cause i dont know how to cablibrated it), and guess what...This gonna make u ROFL. i dont know if u made the same mistake but i got the TPS plug and Map plug switched, which means TPS plug went to Map and Map went to TPS. when i found out - the proplem solved.
About the ECU, i dont know. I think other people are right. Im running P28 chipped with Mugen program. this ECu was perfect for my B series but run like shiet on prelude. So i guess P13 is the way to go or chipped with prelude map.

 

if your check engine light is on it means the comptuer is unhappy, and it showing a code or codes. to make the computer happy you must find those codes. its NOT hard to do. until you figure things like that out you are not gonna go anywhere with that car.

 

guys i haVE some what same issue my h22 in a 99-00 civic is missfiring too it happend as soon as i changed my fuel pump plus it tends to miss more when i take off the in take pipe any sujjestions?????