What kind of spring rates a RSX-S ( race car ) should be using ?
Like my tittle say.
well this weekend its my first race in a Touring class. I was used to race in Formula Ford for 4 years with my own car but this year I will rent a car from a team for the full championship.
We are racing on Hankook K104 tire which is a street tire. I cant remember exactly what they told me that they were using but from what I remember it was incredibly too high for a street tire.
So what have you seen on a road-race RSX-S in term of spring rates/sway bars.
I cant wait tommorow its the first test day and saturday its the race day.
I just want to have some idea just in case if the car is not at my taste !
Thanks !
well this weekend its my first race in a Touring class. I was used to race in Formula Ford for 4 years with my own car but this year I will rent a car from a team for the full championship.
We are racing on Hankook K104 tire which is a street tire. I cant remember exactly what they told me that they were using but from what I remember it was incredibly too high for a street tire.
So what have you seen on a road-race RSX-S in term of spring rates/sway bars.
I cant wait tommorow its the first test day and saturday its the race day.
I just want to have some idea just in case if the car is not at my taste !
Thanks !
Some teams use upward of 4000lb springs in the rear on a stock-geometry RSX. Front are anywhere from 600-1200.
Basically, the rear of the car has some issues.
Basically, the rear of the car has some issues.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Basically, the rear of the car has some issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats the nicest way i have seen it put.
Basically, the rear of the car has some issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats the nicest way i have seen it put.
I drive an EM2 coupe with a K20 which has the same suspension as the RSX (slightly longer wheelbase) and yes, it has issues.
The best way that I found to make it work was to basically make the rear end of the car solid with 1000+lb springs no camber and a fat rear swaybar.
The camber curve for the rear of the car vs the front is lousy. This means that we definately don't want much compression on the rear suspension and can't take much on the front either which sucks. So basically the car tripods around but only enough to get the inside rear in the air because I have to run a significant front swaybar too.
The best way that I found to make it work was to basically make the rear end of the car solid with 1000+lb springs no camber and a fat rear swaybar.

The camber curve for the rear of the car vs the front is lousy. This means that we definately don't want much compression on the rear suspension and can't take much on the front either which sucks. So basically the car tripods around but only enough to get the inside rear in the air because I have to run a significant front swaybar too.
I don't know if you've seen the threads about Realtime's RSX. There's some RSX discussion within these threads, you'll just have to sort through them. Realtime ran 800# front, and 3000# rear when they ran a stock suspension. You can see the rear bar they used as well. They also changed the front LCA to increase anti-dive. I don't know that any of these modifications are legal for your class though.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1185272
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1563231
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1185272
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1563231
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackdc5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you guys post up more info about the DC5s suspension and your findings?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Quick and dirty:
The front struts have issues with tie-rod angles, which leads to bumpsteer when lowered. Also difficult to get caster.
Rear: Serious geometry problems leading to poor motion ratios and binding.
You can make the cars work, but it's not nearly as easy as the older double-wishbone cars.
Fantastic powertrain, poor suspension (for racing). For daily driving I am more than happy with the RSX.
Quick and dirty:
The front struts have issues with tie-rod angles, which leads to bumpsteer when lowered. Also difficult to get caster.
Rear: Serious geometry problems leading to poor motion ratios and binding.
You can make the cars work, but it's not nearly as easy as the older double-wishbone cars.
Fantastic powertrain, poor suspension (for racing). For daily driving I am more than happy with the RSX.
Some keys:
Don't lower the car too much.
Run really high rear spring rates with a really large rear swaybar.
Get suspension that corrects front tie rod angles, if it is legal for your class.
Otherwise, there is absolutely nothing you can do with the RSX suspension and how it is designed. You just have to do the best you can with it. The RSX chassis itself if one of the stiffest Honda has ever designed, but the suspension design is pretty bad (considering the car it replaced).
Don't lower the car too much.
Run really high rear spring rates with a really large rear swaybar.
Get suspension that corrects front tie rod angles, if it is legal for your class.
Otherwise, there is absolutely nothing you can do with the RSX suspension and how it is designed. You just have to do the best you can with it. The RSX chassis itself if one of the stiffest Honda has ever designed, but the suspension design is pretty bad (considering the car it replaced).
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