Greetings.
I have a 95 si. I'm currently on some huge, heavy and ugly 18 inch chrome wheels. They gots to go. I'll be purchasing 16' slipstreams with 205-40-16 falkens. Going from 18's to 16's, so there's going to be a gap issue that needs dealt with. So, I'll have to drop one more inch. Now the options roll in. I only have a slight clue what I'm dealing with when it comes to suspension. I don't know what I'll need in order to drop another inch. I currectly have Tokico struts, Tein springs, and aftermarket shocks (I don't know the brand, just know that they're not stock). What more do I need to get to drop the last inch? And about how much will it run me?
I'm also hearing word about about 'Lowering Blocks'. For how cheap it is, and claiming effectiveness, it just doesn't seem legit to me. What's not being said about these things? Am I better off paying the huge amounts to lower my car another inch?
Should I buy the lowering blocks and procede with caution?
Or should I just leave it as is, with an inch gap from the chaging of my rims?

I know it's up to me on how I want it, it's my ride and that's what matters.
I'm just asking opinions on how I should go about it cause I don't know much about it.
Thanks a ton for your opinions.

 

wtf is a lowering block

 

Exactly my question. It's supposedly some sort of clamp that locks onto your springs to force them together, basically a cheap way to lower your car. I'm wondering if anyone has done this, would recommend or would not recommend. Just the tought of what they do doesn't sound right, as if they could simply fall off the clamps of the springs and F things all up. I need personal experience from people.

 

that's going to make the springs stiffer than hell. either way, just get ground controls.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soundbomber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's going to make the springs stiffer than hell. either way, just get ground controls.</TD></TR></TABLE>

+1...I'm running GC's w/KYB AGX's

 

Ground controls? I don't know the terminology. Is it the whole package of needed materials? What more will I need.. I've been told so many things. One place I went to named this long list of parts and said it'd take roughly 4 hours to put them all on, drop it and then align; but they've been reputable for lieing to the customers by saying they need things that they really don't; so their labor hours will add up. Another place contradicts what the other said, some friends say other things. It's a starting to be such a big thing out of something that is probably simple. I'm so lost.. can I purchase a front camber and new springs and drop it? What am I missing..

 

http://www.ground-control-store.com/

 

Ive read only positive reviews of ground controls especially with koni yellow shocks. Might be a better alternative than going the Tien Flex ($1250) coilover route

 

lowering blocks are for trucks with leaf springs
preludes dont have that kind of suspension...hahahahaha

 

The site above has a pair found here.
http://www.ground-control-stor...CA=74
Is that price for one? It says for the 'kit', does the kit mean one coil for one wheel, two for the front, or all four. They're compatable with my current Tokico shocks. So, if I purchased the above ground controls, I'd just need that, a camber kit and then a proper alignment?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by co_OlLo_OdDo_Od &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The site above has a pair found here.
http://www.ground-control-stor...CA=74
Is that price for one? It says for the 'kit', does the kit mean one coil for one wheel, two for the front, or all four. They're compatable with my current Tokico shocks. So, if I purchased the above ground controls, I'd just need that, a camber kit and then a proper alignment?</TD></TR></TABLE>

that price, it's for a set of 4.

all you need is the ground control kit hours of time to spend fooling around w/ your ride ht. and stuff and lastly an alignment.

camber kit is not necessary.

 

Lowering blocks = leaf springs mounted under axle (same as "lift blocks" w/ leaf springs mounted above the axles) As Sniper said....not on a 'lude (w/out modification )

Coil Spring "Clamps" = FOR THE LOVE OF PETE, DONT USE THESE!!!!

Best off going with a coilover or just replacing you springs with a lower performance spring, ie: Eibach Sportlines.
And....before I go spending the money I'd get those new wheels/tires on there, I'm betting that your new 16's have a larger sidewall then the 18's you removed which will help clean up that wheel gap

K

ps, thanks for gettin' the 18's off

 

I've noticed that when you get smaller wheels the car looks lower. I don't think you need to lower it alot more unless you just want to make it useless as a DD.

I think everything has already been mentioned otherwise. I guess I should pump my own preference on lowering. Get the Koni's and use the lower perch. Then if you want lower later you can get some GC's and will have the best suspension setup you can on a prelude.

 

I've noticed that when you get smaller wheels the car looks lower. I don't think you need to lower it alot more unless you just want to make it useless as a DD.

^^^yea my brother has tein springs on his stock shocks...he runs 15 inch integra type-r rims and it looks fine...16 inchers with the tein springs will look perfect

 

i think he is more concerned with the fender gap he will get from decreasing rim size. i say you get the wheels first and then see if you will really need to lower the car any more. it sounds like you have a pretty good setup already (except for the huge wheels). if you slam your car even more, you will start having problems when daily driving like said before.

 

Just to make a point, don't get 205-40-16. Get either 205-50-16 or 215-45-16

 

Yes, that was the concern. That and what more I'll need in order to get the lower drop. My alignment is way out of whack as it is, because how massive my current rims are. I have no idea the brand or weight of them. They're 9-10 inches wide and I have 225-40-18 tires on them. The wheel bends inward about a quarter of an inch and rides the inside more then the outside; it's so damn annoying buying tires once a year. I went to get an alingment as is to fix that problem but they said it couldn't be done without putting a camber kit in. I'll put the slips and the 205-40-16 Falkens on and see how they sit. If I can get a proper alignment after that then great. If I need the GC's and a camber after then that's fine. Thanks for the opinions fellas.

 

205/40/16 is a really small tire
i used to run that size for better acceleration on autox races

you need a massive drop in order to get rid of the wheel gap

and when you do that...the whole car gets even lower to the ground

mine was so bad that i couldnt get any stock jack under the car...and the front tow hook was about 2.5" off the ground.....its not fun

i think 205/45/16 or even a 215/45/16 tire would be best

a 205/50/16 tire looks a little too big for my taste

ill try getting a pic of my setup before on 205/40 tires

 

I think the best thing to do is buy the rims and tires you want that will be the stock diameter, then just do some reasearch on this site. It apparent you have no clue what you are talking about.

If you lower the car more the camber will be worse. If you change the rims and tires the alignment will for the most part stay the same. So just do like everyone is suggesting and get the rims, and while you are waiting on those do some damn reasearch.

Sorry to be the ******* in this thread.

 

205/40/16
insane drop



pics are 3.5 years old
i sure miss those rims tho