I gota 91 si hatch, and i have the 92 teg whole rear trailing arms. but my question is, what is the honest scoop about these? will these throw the geometry off, and cause a bunch of crap? or do these fit perfect as oem. i'd much rather put all the money into a front brake kit, rather than screwing up my back end.

 

dont totally quote me but the story i have heard is that the trailing arms are ok off of the integra as long as you dont use the integra controll arms. i think if u use the control arms then the geometry is off a lil bit. i dont think it is that big of a difference anyways. peace king

 

Use the trailing arms only - not the control or compensator arms and the only change to the suspension geometry will be that your rear track will increase by maybe 1/4 - 1/3" per side. I had my alignment done after I did my swap (needed it anyways after raising my car back up from the bottom of the coilovers) and everything came out good. I did have to bend up the fenderwell lip a bit to allow clearance - for you that'd depend on your wheel/tire size & offset.

Eric

 

Ya, I just finished this, and the track is wider with the teg trailing arms, but if you use all the rest of the parts from the civic (rear upper arms are also the same, if your's are bad) you will still be able to attain the exact same camber/toe as before. If you want to use the Civic trailing arm, just remove the four #50torx bolts, and the large center nut holding the whole assembly on the trailing arm. Do the same on the teg, and swap it over and you will not increase your track at all.

 

THere was a thread on this a week ago. I think the track difference with the TEG trailing arms is dependent on if it is from a ABS or regual system. THe ABS is supposed to be wider. So check that first. The TEG arm for the regualr system is supposed to be identical in track as the 91 Si trailing arm, only with larger brakes.


[Modified by virginia_dude, 8:32 AM 4/9/2002]


[Modified by virginia_dude, 8:33 AM 4/9/2002]

 

ok, thanks. i might as well just sell the hatch and get a crx that comes w/ them stock . ha ha. thanks for your help guys

 

That is what I think is the best way to do it. But if you are using trailing arms and worried about the track, it is the non-abs that widen it.

 

i got a teg arm on the driver side and a crx si on the pass and the teg stiks out a good 1/2 in. more and rubs like a *****.

 

Hears my question, I am planning on doing this myself and I'm hearing conflicting information. Your TEG arm that puts your wheel out too far. Is that from a car with ABS or without? I have heard that the arm itself is identical its the spindle part that changes and that the ABS spindle is a taad longer than the non-ABS spindle. Before I bury myself into a quagmire I want to fully understand this myself. One guy says it works and another says its way to far out. Thats either because people don't know what arm they have or other factors we would like to know who is incorrect and what the straight poop is.

 

According to the SCCA club racing guys, it does not even make that much of a difference in performance sine the front brakes do so much of the work, and the rears tend to lock up more this way .......

Just my opinion ....

 

I have used both and spindle and arm from ABS and Non ABS. The NON-ABS sticks out at least a 1/2" more than ABS. I couldn't even think about lowering my car with the NON-ABS trailing arm and 16x7 +42 wheels. I did not unbolt the spindle, so I don't know if the difference is there or not. Trailing arms are most obviously different in the number of round holes they have. I now have 2 ABS trailing arms and my wheels fit without any rolling or cuting of the fenders. I do have minor rubbing on the inside wheel well but not the outside.

I even went to a junkyard and measured many ABS and NON-ABS trailing arms and found the same dimension differences on the 2 different trailing arms. I too after reading things on websites and message boards was confused how I never heard of this before. I just assumed because of my wheel size, I had a new problem most don't have with a 15x6.5.

 

Well right now i'm running one abs and one non abs and there isn't a difference in mine. They seem perfectly fine, neither rub, but if there is ever a problem, i can just put them back on the civic arms. But for now they don't rub or anything. as for everyone rubbing how low are you dropped??? I was dropped 3.25 on sprint extremes and still wasn't rubbing on both sides.

 

That is what I was running until I got my wheels and tried to lower it. One side didn't rub at all, the other is where I had the problem and that is when I had to figure that out.

What size and offset wheel do you have?

 

With my car, I couldn't drop it but about 1/2 an inch on the 16's, and that ate the HELL out of the edges of my tires... all the way to the nylon cords.

I raised it up and rode on the same tires for a while... But I could never lower it because of the offset problems... Do I just need Civic Control Arms on my ABS 93 Integra trailing arms?

 

are you 100% sure that that can be done? if so how hard is it to remove those 4 bolts that you were talking about... so you have to take it to a brake shop in order for them to all properly be tighten? can you give a alittle more info on what you where talking about? parts list and ect? thanks

 

I swapped mine over the weekend with 96 GSR rear disc's and everything pretty much bolted on all u need is the rear trailing arm but everything else u use off ur old parts like ur control arm and so and so. the cable's do bolt on but on mine the right side seems to be a little shorter. but all in all its a bolt on.

 

Joe,

Make sure you go get an alignement. I would hate for you to toast your new 18" tires because the toe is out of adjustment. And I guarantee that is out of adjustment.

 

I have one ABS, and one NON ABS, and there is no difference in the length of these two parts. If you look closely you can see that the NON ABS is made out of the same mold as the ABS, it still has all the bosses where the ABS should bolt too, and if you remove the hubs from the spindles and measure they are both the same. I was concerned about this while I was doing it, and had both apart, because visually the ring on the ABS makes it appear longer, but it really isn't.

 

i installed 94 full gsr brakes on my ef and u can really feel the difference only thing is that the pedal is mushy but it stops faster its tiiitie

 

you can make all the power u want

but if you cant stop.....youre *** is GRASS

i love the braking power the conversion gives.!

 

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Well right now i'm running one abs and one non abs and there isn't a difference in mine. They seem perfectly fine, neither rub, but if there is ever a problem, i can just put them back on the civic arms. But for now they don't rub or anything. as for everyone rubbing how low are you dropped??? I was dropped 3.25 on sprint extremes and still wasn't rubbing on both sides.
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I have TEG GSR rims with 205/50-15 tires on my '89 hatch, I have had to roll my fender lip to clear. I have suspension Techniques springs (don't laugh they were cheap) with KYB struts. they were supposed to be 1" springs but damned if that car dosen't sit 2.5" lower all around, and ride stiff as hell, I measured it before and after. I have no extra clearance to allow for an increase in track with my situation.


[Modified by virginia_dude, 11:26 AM 4/11/2002]


[Modified by virginia_dude, 11:30 AM 4/11/2002]


[Modified by virginia_dude, 11:33 AM 4/11/2002]

 

So any of the GSR discs fit, 94+? Just need the trailing arm and the CRX stuff bolts up? The GSR rear disc is 9+" correct? Just double checking because I haven't seen this swap mentioned before.

Thanks
Ben

 

i took the spindel off the crx driver side and put it on the integra arm b/c the crx arm was damaged and the spindel on the integ was larger. the integra arm itself stiks out more, its not the spindel (abs or non abs) that is longer.

 

OK, that tells me what to watch out for, in fact I may just keep the drums, they work well anyway. I appreciate your feedback. Thats much better info than I have found elsewhere. Saved me from even more grief. because the last thing I need is something that increaces my rear track even 1/4 inch.

 

I can't believe that the question of changing master cylinders and prop valves wasn't even asked on this thread.. wow!... therefore, I'm gonna ask it!

Crx with a rear disc conversion from a 91 CRX si... not changing the prop valve (don't need to) but want better braking power.. therefore a bigger M/C and brake booster is needed... Well, Which M/C is the one to use? I heard that the 15/16th's m/c from the 86-89 integra with brake booster is the appropriate upgrade but will the brake lines at the m/c need to be bent or altered????

ahhh.. how's that for a question.. (which I need answered)!