I finally got the car together enough to install the new prodrive/circuitworx hubs, and I used my harbor-freight garage press to get them and the new wheel bearings in. Well, I did one side, and it looks like the hub may be sittin too far into the knuckle. To give you an idea, I used some feeler gauges to determine that the distance between the back of the wheelstuds and the closest part of the knuckle is .026". It spins and it doesn't hit, but it looks closer than I thought it would be...













I've got the metal part of the wheelbearing facing inside (towards the engine bay), and it also looks like
the inner metal part of the bearing is sticking in too farther than the other wheel bearing I have to install on the other side. I.E. the inner part of the wheel bearing (where the hub actually touches/seats) is sticking out past the outer part of the wheel bearing a little further than a new, non-installed bearing.

Did I mess something up?

 

Is that an SDS unit in the box? i think I saw the mixture **** :-P nice hubs btw

 

Hey...have you actually put the axle stub in and torque it tight? Typically we have to machine the factory hub where the studs look like they are gonna hit(they will) When pressing in the hub into the bearing sometimes the bearing will separate...you will need to put the axle in and tighten it up...but you will have to cleance the hub before doing so....


Howard

 

I have yet to install it on the car because the motor isn't even in yet... what do you mean by "clearance the hub"? Its almost like maybe the bearing spearated... but its like the inside of the bearing actually got pressed too far into the knuckle....?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ~RTErnie~ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is that an SDS unit in the box? i think I saw the mixture **** :-P nice hubs btw</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, I think thats the wiring from the fast-turbo.com fuel kit Either that or my old v1 techedge sensor that I stopped using about 1 month after it came out hahahah

 

clearance the area where the stud backs are gonna touch the factory knuckle...the bearing did separate...youll need to put the axle in it and torque it to bring it together

 

Well, it clears right now and I can spin it all the way around... there is .026" between the back of the stud and the knuckle.

So, will this not damage the bearing? I.E., it will be AOK when I get it torqued to an axle? I'll put an exle end into it today and torque that down and post up!

 

I think what he means is that once you put the axle in, and torque it down, the hub is going to pull in even tighter and then you won't have the .026" clearance. When he says clearance the knuckle, he means have it machined right where it looks like the wheel studs could hit, and they are going to hit if you don't machine the knuckle.

Clayton

 

Well, my concern is that I may have somehow "over pressed" the thing and messed up the new wheel bearing. Circuitworx told me that they build their hubs to the stock specifications (except to accept the 36mm spline), so it is supposed to fit just like stock. I would assume that if I have to machine my knuckle, it means that something else is out of whack... does that make sense?

 

they said their hub is factory spec...not the ARP studs that are pressed in to it...makes sense? Trust me...I have installed atleast 15 sets...you will have to modify the knuckle or the back of the studs(which I would not do)

Howard

 

I was able to install ARP studs on my old civic hub (this is an integra one) without this problem Howard, so is this completely normal to have this problem?

 

I have had studs that clear...but I dont take any chances with it...aparently there are studs that have smaller bumped backs(if that makes sense)


Its not very much that you have to clear it for...

 

I dont want to get this thread off topic, but I would like to ask you some questions Howard. It is ironic that I saw this thread just now, Ive been off and on the phone with James Innes today trying to get our ProDrive stg2 kit to work as well. We are having bearing problems also but not the same type as servion.

If you have time please check PMs Howard, thank you sir

-bill

 

pm'd

 

I run these hubs in my EG with no problems. Vince @ circuitworx

 

I know exactly what Howard is saying. However I did the good ole hillbilly thing and got the grinder out and made it work.haha

I have seen this issue with 2 different sets with factory knuckles

 

Vince was great!!! Unfortunately he left the company

Let me ask this: I know its a silly question, but how difficult should it be to spin a hub by hand with a 100% new bearing with 0 miles? It seems that the loosen up and spin more easily with some miles, and this one fairly tough to turn by hand, but it doesn't spin at all on its own


Modified by servion at 10:30 PM 4/26/2006

 

it looks like you forgot to hold the inner race of the bearing when you were pressing the hub in. I'm sure when you tighten it all up it will be fine.