Ok im getting a bit frustrated. Here's the rundown
JDM EG9 Ferio
OBD1 JDM B18c conversion
OBD1 P72 ECU

Problem: my IABs are not working. Here is what i have done so far. Cut the Pink/Blue and Black wire near the IAB plug and joined my own wire onto them and have run them through the firewall. Pink/Blue wire goes to A17 and Black goes to A25. Have I got everything right so far?

I start the car and the arm stays down. I pull vaccum hose 13 off connecting to the plunger and fell for vaccum but there is no vaccum at all.

I then use a volt meter. Placing one pole on A17 and one pole on A25, I get no reading (0 volts). But if i put one pole on A17 or A25 and the other on the chassis to ground, i will get +/- 14volts.

What the hell is wrong? Is it a faulty IAB solenoid?

Thanks

 

Bump

 

trying running the black wire to a regular ground like on the thermostat housing, I don't remember if A25 is for ground but it sound like its a 12v source if it reads + volts with a voltmeter

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by APEX CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">trying running the black wire to a regular ground like on the thermostat housing, I don't remember if A25 is for ground but it sound like its a 12v source if it reads + volts with a voltmeter</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would have thought thermostat ground point is the same as grounding it at any chassis point?

 

check to make sure your check valve isnt backwards try to switch it around cuz air will only flow one way on the check valve. if that dosent work dont worry just wire pink to a25 black to the yellow black wire on the driver side shock tower. and connect a vacumm line from top of iab diaphrap to side of intake manifold by doing this the wires are hooked up so you get no check engine light and the iab will open gradually with acceleration so pretty much your just running the iab diaphram strait to the intake manifold and thats it no check valve no vacum control canister none of that crap. i read a thread on this somewhere on here and a guy tested his iabs hooked all different kinds of ways and got the best results in the quater mile this way i personally use this method and love it still got low end tq and top end tq give it a try and let us know.

 

USDM obd1 Iab's activate differently than jdm obd1 and obdII iab's.

Try this --&gt; http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtop...rt=15

Its about activating obdII but the info still applies.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Furyof4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">USDM obd1 Iab's activate differently than jdm obd1 and obdII iab's.

Try this --&gt; http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtop...rt=15

Its about activating obdII but the info still applies.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How does JDM OBD1 IAB and USDM OBD1 IAB differ? I thought you wire them up the same