Just wondering if anyone else has had this much trouble getting that stupid bolt off.


I'm trying to change the timing belt on my wife's 00 EJ6, so I hit the bolt with my 600 ft-lb impact gun - nothing. So I hold it on (2 compressor tank fulls) to see if it will jar loose - nothing. Then I empty a can of liquid wrench on it and hit it again with the gun, this time switching the rotation every impact to knock it loose - nothing.

I worked at a shop for 3 years and have never had a bolt stick like this. Is this common on EJ's?

Now I'm going to have to take it to a shop with at least a 750 ft-lb 3/4" drive to knock it loose for me.

 

Works everytime:

Get a thick, long breaker bar.

Have a buddy stick a screwdriver on the flywheel to prevent it from spinning.

Use some elbow grease and pop it loose..

 

Are you going the correct way with the gun?

I heard that the crank pulley bolt and 1 other bolt were "reverse threaded". Just throwing that out there to see if it helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nota-eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you going the correct way with the gun?

I heard that the crank pulley bolt and 1 other bolt were "reverse threaded". Just throwing that out there to see if it helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why do you post such garbage here! You are misleading this person. If it was reverse threaded you'd attach a breaker bar on there and turn over the engine.

I'd recommend getting the proper tool to hold the crank pulley in place. Amazon.com has them quite cheap. You risk no damage by doing it this way. The bolt is the same threading as all other bolts (lefty loosey, righty tighty).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wyte_civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try heating the crank pulley bolt with a torch...that way it will expand the threads and then hit it with the impact.. arent the crank pulley bolts like 130/ft lbs...and i dont belive there reverse threaded either... </TD></TR></TABLE> If its that stuck I doubt just a standard torch will do anything.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nota-eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you going the correct way with the gun?

I heard that the crank pulley bolt and 1 other bolt were "reverse threaded". Just throwing that out there to see if it helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>I have heard this to, but on 2 D-Series and 1 B-Series I have worked on or helped, the crank bolt came off spinning counter clockwise. So as long as he has the gun in reverse is is good.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Works everytime:

Get a thick, long breaker bar.

Have a buddy stick a screwdriver on the flywheel to prevent it from spinning.

Use some elbow grease and pop it loose..

</TD></TR></TABLE> This is alright, but if you bust a tooth off of the flywheel, not cool.

This is what we did. Grab your spare tire, bolt it on the hub and drop the car down. Take a nice long preferably 1/2" drive extenstion, and 17mm socket, and a good solid ratchet. If you have a breaker bar use it. Have someone get in a stand on the brakes. While the brakes are holding the tranny from turning, if the car is in gear and the clutch is out the tranny will keep the engine from turning. Once that is done try and break her loose. This usually works, if not then I dont know. If you dont have your spare tire, you should be able to just use your stock tire and turn it, should have enough clearance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turner7205 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have heard this to, but on 2 D-Series and 1 B-Series I have worked on or helped, the crank bolt came off spinning counter clockwise. So as long as he has the gun in reverse is is good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for clearing that up. There's so much **** on HT I don't know what's truth and what's not.

 

I'd just like to reconfirm that the crank pulley is NOT reverse threaded.

You can also use a chain wrench to hold the crank pulley. Then get a big breaker bar and muscle that sh*t off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slopoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can also use a chain wrench to hold the crank pulley. Then get a big breaker bar and muscle that sh*t off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I woulden't recoment that either, I damaged my pully that way and it chewed up belts like you woulden't belive.

The best and only way it should be done is with the proper tool to hold it down and a heavy duty Impact Gun, or a long breaker bar with a 6ft cheater bar on it.

You can search my handle for a how to on how to remove the bolt, but I dont think he was asking that, the OP was asking if anyone else has had that much trouble and the answer is yes lots of us have so its not just you, I would try the breaker bar with the long cheater bar on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nocturnaldragon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I woulden't recoment that either, I damaged my pully that way and it chewed up belts like you woulden't belive.

The best and only way it should be done is with the proper tool to hold it down and a heavy duty Impact Gun, or a long breaker bar with a 6ft cheater bar on it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have the moroso honda pulley tool, but some of the sohc are different and you cannot use that tool.

I've used the chain wrench probably 20 times and never had a problem, though.

 

torch worked for me, in combination with a 4ft pipe..

 

dont heat that area w/ a torch, the oil pump is right behind it for god's sakes. if you dont have the right tools take it to someone that does.

 

The crank pulley has a hex portion on the inside of it...for a reason. To hell with using a chain wrench or sticking a screwdriver into the flywheel teeth. Both methods can and do work. Both methods also have the potential to screw something else up. So just get the OEM, Moroso or some equivalent crank pulley holder to secure it into place.

As for the bolt, consider heating it as a last resort. Throw some PB Blaster at it, use a drift punch to dead blow it and throw the impact from reverse-forward-reverse a few times. If that fails, time for a breaker bar and a LONG length of pipe.

 

I would definately say use a chain wrench on it. I just removed a pulley off my buddy's GSR. That, and an impact

 

I have a little trick that may help. Keep the pasenger side tire on the ground and then for the driver side you can take a screwdriver and put it into the hole in the caliper that is for inspecting the brakes. Put the car in gear and get a good size breaker bar and break it loose. I would suggest the breaker bar over an impact.

 

question: once you get it off, is it hard to get it back on? for example once you torque it doesnt it turn the engine? how you suppose to make the bolt tight again?

 

6 foot breaker bar

 

Whoa, whoa whoa!! I didn't mean to start a whole discussion on how to remove the pulley bolt (although if someone learns something they didn't know before, cool).

I am using an impact gun, therefore the engine is not turning so no need to lock a wheel or the pulley with anything.

I have changed a few dozen of these in the past and no, the bolt is NOT reverse threaded.

I was just wondering if this had happened to anyone before. I own two other Hondas and the crank bolts have come off without any problem. This is the only bolt my 600 ft-lber hasn't been able to remove.

 

I wouldn't recommend heating it, it might sieze into the pully or something..iono, I just wouldn't torch it...pretty sure u can take tire off and put it up on jack stands or a jackand u acn unbolt thew heel lining and stick a breaker bar in through there...

usually w/ a long one you can get it off.....600lb's is a lot for it not to come off.....an impact gun is def. the safest way to go in terms of breaking it or not, but ****, that's a lot of lbs, not sure how much u can get off a breaker bar, but if u get one of those long *** thick ones, u can probably get it

 

ive got a nice ingersol 3/4 drive 1200 ft# gun it removes everything. get a gun with bigger nuts


side note:dont put it back with this giant gun, 600 lb gun is good for that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ8-y8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive got a nice ingersol 3/4 drive 1200 ft# gun it removes everything. get a gun with bigger nuts


side note:dont put it back with this giant gun, 600 lb gun is good for that</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what I'm talkin' about, right there!

 

I have a spare D15 in my garage that I am busy tearing down to rebuild for someone. I obviously can't do any of these methods since the engine is out of the car, but I found that if I took the oilpain off and wedged a 2x4 in the crank so it couldn't move that the bolt will come off no trouble