What spring set-up do you have???

 

anyone

 

I have 16kg rear / 24kg front .
Sounds extreme, but Tein gives a spring rate 14-18 for the rear and 22-26 for the front.


Dont ask me if its worth it because i havent installed them yet!
(waiting for some other goodies)

 

the only quality coilovers from tein in my opinion over the ss and flex

 

Very nice let me know how they feel when finally installed.
Hows the adjusters
Stiffness
Did you get the EDFC
Oversteer understeer turn in etc
thanks.

 

Well it will take some time,
but i will post when i install them!
No i didnt get the EDFC yet! (I'll have to buy 2 sets :-)

Oversteer/understeer etc its something you cannot tell for sure, it depends on many many things (sway bars etc)
I will post my opinion for my setup though!

 

ill be waiting to hear about this new coilover setup from Tein as well, ive been very curious how it performs.

 

what chassis are we talking about? That would help too.

 

Its for my K20A EG6 project!

 

I hoe hope you get me info soon
Im stuck
Ive had enough of buying stuff thats all talk and no action
Im either going to make my own kit using custom koni or bilstein shocks.
Or buy the Super racing kit cause everything is already there.
I am thinking 22kg and 16kg
I will probably buy the ek kit but will have to extend the rear shocks via a custom rear bracket cause the rears are too short for my DA.
Max travell on the Teins is 98mm and 88mm rear.
Normally around 120-140mm
You will have to use a 20mm bump stop to get a decent amount of bump and droop.

 

So, front is 1456lb/in (26kg/mm), rear is 896lb/in (16kg/mm).
If your springs are setup so that the fronts have nearly 10kg/mm more rate (thats nearly 560lb/in) that your rears, especially on our FWD hondas, higher front rates than rear will naturally bias towards understeer/pushing, anti-roll bars only do so much, they are more of a fine-tuner as well as alignment settings. I've seen some well sorted cars on here setup with 800lb/in to 1000lb/in front, and 1100lb/in to 1300lb/in rear, these are some of the very top performing race cars in NASA's Honda Challange or SCCA's IT.

 

Thats an interesting subject
Biased towards the rear will help on initiall turn in but what about circuit big open sweepers slight input of the brakes rear bias will help on short low speed circuits but im guessing will make the rear a bit twitch and unstable on the long circuits.
What do yo think.

 

Trail-braking, throttle lift oversteer, they are interesting subjects in themselves. I myself cannot left foot brake just yet. Twitchyness is better than plowing and not being able to turn, if you plow/push/understeer you lose your driving line.

 

Yes i hate that when you try and turn the car in and it doesnt wanna go.
But i cant comment on the right setup i just dont know enough just wondering.
Say you turned the car in you have great turn in then your straight on the throttle but you gotta put in less throttle cause your rear will let go mid corner.
Or you back off throttle or tap brakes to wash a bit of speed off. (just wondering)
Im guessing high spring rates are not as stiff relatively due to the honda wheel rate/motion ratio around 1.4.1, so the tyres will only see around a quarter of that.
Just a few things going through my mind
But the teins would be all there ready to go less thinking for me.
That is what i spend the money for to enjoy and i plan to thrash the car as much as i can when finished.

Need to get more info before i decide on springs

 

If you are starting to slide mid corner, or need to scrub off a bit of speed, lifting off the throttle will put less weight on the rear and you'll slide out more willingly. Countersteer, but do not abrubly lift off throttle in a turn, the weight shift mill make your tail come out. I'm sure someone will chime in with a more detailed explination.
Yeah, the Teins are assembled convinient and ready to go, but they may not be most suitable for the driving you plan on doing with them. I can't think of a Penske, Moton, JRZ, Koni 3011/2812 damper that comes with springs already assembled. If you are going to require certain spring rate to accomodate your driving or plans, and then certain rates may require certain valving in the dampers, you're going to need to customize and/or change quite a bit so why not just chose each part individually to suit your needs instead of adapting it?

 

I looked at the konis but by the time you buy the shocks springs top hats do the mounting mods it will cost way more than the tein set-up.
However tein has done the hard work for you ready to go.

 

$460/set shipped koni sport yellows, $315 shipped for GC/koni-specific sleeves with custom/any spring rates, and $120 for a pair of top hats (you only really need them in the front). Let me know of a Tein setup that gives you this level of performance and customizability for the value of $895. I'll agree that Tein's are convinient, but value wise...

Even if we're talking about Koni 3011 double adjustables or even the better 2812's, both kits with custom springs are pretty much under $3000

 

You definately cannot beat that for quality and performance. (i agree)
The teins are $2300 complete.
Bump rebound adjustable already valves with top hats and external res. and are monotube not twin tube.
The konis would have to be revalved depending on spring rate.
But i am definately considering a custom koni bilstein setup also.

 

Koni 3011 and 2812 are custom valved when you order them; they are made to order. And, you can buy the Tein spherical top hats seperate for about $150/pair I've read and I also read they will fit the Koni/2.5" springs just fine.
External resovoir is nice, but not absolutley necessary in my view.

I'm not knocking the Tein's by any mean as far as quality or performance, it's just that I don't think you get your best value for the money. To equal or exceed the performance/value fo the Koni 3011 or the higher end 2812, you'd have to spend close to twice as much for double adjustable Moton's and I think we could all agree that Moton has got quite a lead in the performace category over Tein or Koni. Some people have great success with Tein, but usually not with the default spring rates which bias towards the rear, creating an inherent environment of push/understeer. Some people even purcahse the Teins and later get them revalved to better suit their spring rates.

I remember reading on here a lengthy post about mono-tube versus twin-tube in a racing environment, external versus internal resovoir, etc...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I remember reading on here a lengthy post about mono-tube versus twin-tube in a racing environment, external versus internal resovoir, etc...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Any chance you could give as a link?

 

I have always been under the impression that the Japanese setups use softer rear rates
in combination with skinny rear tires to induce oversteer. While here in the US, the
trend is to use the same tires all around with more rear spring to induce oversteer...

I could be wrong on this though...