Hey guys, simple question .... when i bought my gsr ( which was most likely stolen due to its salvage tittle and the fact it had an ls motor in it) the stock strut tower brace was missing.

Now i have another car, and this is my family car daily driver..., but id like to replace the tower bar with something cheap that gets the job done... maybe slightly better than the stock bar... haha, BUT CHEAP!!!

any suggestions???

 

something cheap wont help reduce body flex.. if u want something that'll help.. i would suggest the password, carbing, mugen, or any bar thats a solid piece and doesnt have any hinges..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92hatchattack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys, simple question .... when i bought my gsr ( which was most likely stolen due to its salvage tittle and the fact it had an ls motor in it) the stock strut tower brace was missing.

Now i have another car, and this is my family car daily driver..., but id like to replace the tower bar with something cheap that gets the job done... maybe slightly better than the stock bar... haha, BUT CHEAP!!!

any suggestions???</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep

password will be the cheapest out of all of thos

 

Well, the stock bar sells for $15, and the password bar (carbing knockoff) sells for $200. The truth of the matter is that they really don't do all that much. The stock one will be fine for you. Also, the stock bar is one solid piece. That's much better than those cheap eBay bars that use adjustable length connectors...

 

which kind of a bar is better ... the ones that actual use the strut bots to mount, or the bars that mount in the 2 other holes on the strut tower...

i used to have the real mugen bar on my eg... and that thing was really nice ... but came with a big price tag...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, the stock bar sells for $15, and the password bar (carbing knockoff) sells for $200. The truth of the matter is that they really don't do all that much. The stock one will be fine for you. Also, the stock bar is one solid piece. That's much better than those cheap eBay bars that use adjustable length connectors...</TD></TR></TABLE>

where can i get the stock one??? not $15 from acura im guessing ... lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92hatchattack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">which kind of a bar is better ... the ones that actual use the strut bots to mount, or the bars that mount in the 2 other holes on the strut tower...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Reinforcing the point where the shocks mount to the chassis (or higher like the OEM bar) doesn't really help to maintain proper suspension geometry. Idealy you would want a bar that mounts to the two bolts that connect the UCA to the chassis (neuspeed is the only one that does this). IMO this is a better design theory...

The three-point bar is an interesting design theory too. But at double the cost of a neuspeed bar, I can't really justify paying up. It is also up for debate weather or not the fire-wall (the third point) is even stiff enough to make any difference. Lots of people mount master cylinder braces to help reduce the fire-wall flex that occours when you just step on the brake pedal...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92hatchattack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where can i get the stock one??? not $15 from acura im guessing ... lol </TD></TR></TABLE>

ImportAutoSalvage.com has them (east coast) or HMotorsOnline.com (west coast). Either way you will have to call or e-mail to get the total price & make arrangments to pay. I got mine from Import Auto Salvage (on an eBay auction) for only $15 + shipping...

 

I have used both an OEM ITR and Neuspeed 4 point on my integra extensively during auto-x, as well without any bars. I could not feel any difference, I ended up selling them both. Money could be better spent elsewhere..

 

yes, what's the "job"?

i think a paper towel tube and some duct tape would do the job of an STB quite fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, what's the "job"?

i think a paper towel tube and some duct tape would do the job of an STB quite fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL! Yeah pretty much. My OEM bar is currently sitting on a shelf in favor of some ground-control upper mounts (that interfere with the bar)... I can't tell any difference with or w/o it, but my car is street only...

 

Spoon sports is slightly cheaper and is nice quality. I believe I paid $190 for the front and $180 for the rear. They are so light and you can stand on the bars with installed. That's my vote, yeah the 3point might be slightly better, but I already had the spoon strut bars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mugencrxsir1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Spoon sports is slightly cheaper and is nice quality. I believe I paid $190 for the front and $180 for the rear. They are so light and you can stand on the bars with installed. That's my vote, yeah the 3point might be slightly better, but I already had the spoon strut bars. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the spoon one is adjustable and doesnt do the same job as the other non-adjustable ones..

 

for all you guys that dont like the stb's much, whats your top choice for a suspension mod??? just wondering...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92hatchattack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for all you guys that dont like the stb's much, whats your top choice for a suspension mod??? just wondering...</TD></TR></TABLE>

well aside from good springs w/ good rates (ers, hypercoil) w/ a good sleeve + good dampers, it's swaybars. then camber kits.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92hatchattack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for all you guys that dont like the stb's much, whats your top choice for a suspension mod??? just wondering...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tires (and wheels) are #1 man. They increase the performance of every aspect of your vehicle (stop, go & turn). Without good performance tires, you won't be able to utilize any suspension mods...

 

well, i guess im not gonna get much performance out of my teg... cause im getting a 14" all weather tire.. lol .. potenza g009 is what im getting for it.

But for my hatch im get the new azenis in 205/40/16....

Heres i question, i have to raise my EG up due to oil pan clearing issues... now i already have illuminas on there, and i cant aford a full coil over set.... but...

1.... whats a good slip over coil over that i can use on my illuminas

and

2., will raising the ride heigh enough to give proper clearance for a k20 oil pan hurt my handling performance????

 

1. Ground control sleeves.
2. I believe so because you are raising your center of gravity. But what do i know? From my butt dyno, I felt more body roll when i raised my car up about 1 inch. I rather be riding high enought where i do not have to worry that much about scraping.

 

cool, can i have a really good handling car with the ground controls and illuminas????


Or do i need to buy a really good combo to have excelent handling????

 

Well, the ground-controls are the best coil-over sleeves on the market. Life time warranty blah blah blah...

If your worried about body roll, and other things, you can opt for custom spring rates. Increasing the spring rates over the off-the-shelf rates will further reduce body roll, but also increase ride harshness. If this is a street car, I feel that the Off the shelf rates are great, and they offer good comfort and great performance.

The weird thing about ride height and body roll is this: The civics roll center gets further away from it's center of gravity as you lower it. This, in theory, increases body roll by increasing the CG's leverage over the roll center. The reason that
sirg-vtec probably felt less roll at a lower ride height is most likely due to the bump-stops. As you come into contact with the bump-stops the combined spring rate goes up exponentially thus stopping the body from rolling.

Needless to say, these are not really things to be too concerned about on a street car. I suggest getting the GC kit, and setting the ride height where you feel looks good. If it's too bumpy, raise it up. If you get too much body roll, lower it a bit. It's all about finding that happy medium that works for you...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92hatchattack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or do i need to buy a really good combo to have excelent handling????</TD></TR></TABLE>

The shocks do not have to be "matched" to the springs. This is just a marketing tactic companies use to get you to buy stuff. Basically you can go buy this: if the car continues to bounce after hitting a bump, then your shocks are not stiff enough to handle your springs (or their just blown ).

Your illuminas should do fine...