97 Honda Civic Sohc with intake, header, high flow cat and custom rear section........today i took her out and she was fine until i did a 6 grand pass......not uncommon and has been running perfectly......i noticed that when i came to a stop and put the clutch all the way in and it went to idle that it damn near died! it was so close to dying that the oil light came on.....but it idled back up and turned off....now there is a terrible knocking noise coming from the engine.....the car has no power and starts hard. please help!

 

Y8 like in your sig? You might have experienced what alot of other people experience with these motors and your oil pump went out on you and spun a rod. Does it knock during idle then gets louder when the revs go up?

 

DEAR GOD DON'T DRIVE IT. sounds like you broke one of your pistons, and need a rebuild.


Modified by ilu at 6:44 PM 4/18/2006

 

time for a b18c

 

what the hell is a piston rod. you spun a bearing, dont drive it until you can get it fixed. most likely like luserkid said, oil pump went and spun a bearing.

 

it knocks at idle too.....how much is the fix???

 

BUMP!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97exd16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it knocks at idle too.....how much is the fix???</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would probably be cheaper and towards your best interest to just buy a new motor or save up and swap in a b-series at this point.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what the hell is a piston rod. you spun a bearing, dont drive it until you can get it fixed. most likely like luserkid said, oil pump went and spun a bearing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Word, sounds like a spun bearing......I think u'd know it if u threw a rod....never personally threw one myself, but I've seen it done before, '69 charger - start of a race, shot up diagnally through the hood about 15 ft in the air - and yeah, you heard that it was running on 7 cyls....

but yeah, like they all said, DON'T drive it until you can take it apart and analyize it, that's the only way you'll know for sure I presume...

 

estimate on price of fix??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97exd16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">estimate on price of fix??</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sh!ttyLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would probably be cheaper and towards your best interest to just buy a new motor or save up and swap in a b-series at this point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is good advice. You can find a used short block for a few hundred dollars, and have a few knowledgable friends help you switch it all over. Or an entire engine...

Having a shop fix the spun bearing will be over $1000 at LEAST.

 

The easiest way to tell if you have a spun connecting rod bearing is to drain the engine oil and look to see if you have metallic material in your oil. If there is metallic material present and you want to save the engine then take off the oil pan, remove the windage tray (if d-series has one), and see if you can wiggle any of the connecting rods on the crank. If you spun a bearing you will most likely have some free play in one of the connecting rod journals. If you find one that is loose, take off the connecting rod cap and check to see how much damage there is the the crankshaft rod journal. If you are not able to find a connecting rod that will wiggle on the crankshaft but there is metallic material present in your engine oil, then you will need to take off your connecting rod caps and check to see which bearing spun. Best scenario would be that you lightly scored the crank and it can be polished out at a machine shop then you can throw in new main/rod bearing and a oil pump. Worst case scenario is that the crankshaft is scorn beyond repair and then you have to decide to buy either another crankshaft or as other people have said, a new engine.

 

i know that you all told me not to drive it but i kinda have too......but my parents are going to buy my grandpa's car (no i'm not a 30 living in the basement...i am still in high school) and then i'm going to save my earnings all summer and but that torwards a 99 si and turbo kit......thanx for posting and yeah....i decided that i'm just going to blow the engine, take it out and cell the car without a motor....is that a good idea?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sh!ttyLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would probably be cheaper and towards your best interest to just buy a new motor or save up and swap in a b-series at this point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I love kids like you that jump on the b-series bandwagon.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -DesTiNy- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">time for a b18c </TD></TR></TABLE>

Time for an H22A

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by O RLY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Time for an H22A</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -DesTiNy- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">time for a b18c </TD></TR></TABLE>
uh oh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sh!ttyLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would probably be cheaper and towards your best interest to just buy a new motor or save up and swap in a b-series at this point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, but don't forget you can buy used D series engines with less than 100K for about $500. If you have a friend that can help you, you can swap it in a day. Then keep your old engine for parts. Tear it down and show us what happened. A B series would be nice, but all things considered, you seem like you just want to get the car running for as little money as it takes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aallbbeerrtttttt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you were in cali, i got a d16 sitting downstairs i woulda sold to you for 100 bucks, complete motor, just sitting downstairs</TD></TR></TABLE> Would you ship it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by O RLY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, but don't forget you can buy used D series engines with less than 100K for about $500. If you have a friend that can help you, you can swap it in a day. Then keep your old engine for parts. Tear it down and show us what happened. A B series would be nice, but all things considered, you seem like you just want to get the car running for as little money as it takes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats your best bet buddy! I spun my bearing the same way you did, just that I didn't push it past my UBER VTAK like you did, I babied it but still my ghey oil pump went out on me and i heard a loud thump. Then my car started to shake and knock! Just swap it with another y8 motor and you are golden. Eveerything bolts on and wires up! Saved my $2700 for a full rebuild without labor included! AND not to mention with me including all engine componenets too!