I have a 94 accord non vtec sohc and i was wondering how hard will it be to swap a sohc vtec head on it ps i have the vtec wries already ran from the ex harness im using in the car... well i have whole parts car the ex like any body done it before is it worth it if have all the stuff thanks

 

I think it bolts right up and you might have to drill an extra oil passage (not sure) do a search on F22b2 and Vtec

 

i have done it, i wouldnt say its worth it in my opinion.. but if you have all the stuff, and you are mechanically inclined, go for it..cant hurt i guess

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think it bolts right up and you might have to drill an extra oil passage (not sure) do a search on F22b2 and Vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>

not necessary, sohc vtec oil passage is located inside the block, its your choice to remove the oil control orifice in the block, but i dont think it matters...

 

would that be the same as for a f22al block with the same head swap, no tapping the block involved and will i need new head bolts or can i use my a1 bolts

 

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/sh...=3585

edited for bad link.

 

I HAVE DRILLED THAT IN MY HEAD SO I DONT MAKE A MISTAKE WHEN I DO THE SWAP BUT IT DOES NOT SAY WHAT HEAD BOLTS TO USE OR TAPPING THE BLOCK THOSE ARE THE TWO THINGS THAT ARE STOPPING ME RYT NOW FROM DOING THE SWAP

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlUAc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I HAVE DRILLED THAT IN MY HEAD SO I DONT MAKE A MISTAKE WHEN I DO THE SWAP BUT IT DOES NOT SAY WHAT HEAD BOLTS TO USE OR TAPPING THE BLOCK THOSE ARE THE TWO THINGS THAT ARE STOPPING ME RYT NOW FROM DOING THE SWAP</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please turn of the caps lock, it's hard to read. I highly recomend using arp head studs(h23 will work). You don't need to tap anything(correct me if I'm wrong). Let us know if you have anymore concerns. Also, I'm not sure if you already have all the parts. If not, the swap isn't worth it IMO. I would go H23 headswap.
Head studs:
http://shopping.lightningmotor....html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlUAc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WHAT HEAD BOLTS TO USE OR TAPPING THE BLOCK THOSE ARE THE TWO THINGS THAT ARE STOPPING ME RYT NOW FROM DOING THE SWAP</TD></TR></TABLE>

either use h headstuds or use either your original headbolts or the b1 vtec headbolts, they are identical...an f22b2 and b1 are almost identical in everyway minus the cylinderhead, same accesory brackets, same bottom end internals, etc...

i already said earlier, no need to tap the block or drill...the oil passage is already located in the block, use whatever headgasket you want, f22b2 and f22b1 are same part#
all you will need is an ex accord timing belt, as it is slightly longer...

but the way i look at it the power ratings between an f22b1 and b2 are like 15hp, and maybe 10 or so ft lb. (i forget exactly) but all that cant be attributed to the vtec head, the ex accords come with a superior exhaust manifold design, so you are looking at real minimal gains, if any...

 

well im one of those "do something nobody else is doing" kind of guy my plans are to go single vtec turbo nitrous just cause nobody has that and well i just wanna waste money to get the experience DIY

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlUAc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well im one of those "do something nobody else is doing" kind of guy my plans are to go single vtec turbo nitrous just cause nobody has that and well i just wanna waste money to get the experience DIY</TD></TR></TABLE>

been done before, so if you really want to do something "no one else is doing" you should put a 4g63 in your accord

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlUAc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well im one of those "do something nobody else is doing" kind of guy my plans are to go single vtec turbo nitrous just cause nobody has that and well i just wanna waste money to get the experience DIY</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can understand wanting to be unique, but putting the b1 head on would be more of a downgrade than anything later on. I'm one of those "get the most power for your money" guys, and that seems to be a h23 headswap + turbo.

 

well thats what I thought so I got the head a 3 angle valve cut and milled it a 30ths to bump the power a lil bit I know I know its only a little bit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlUAc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well thats what I thought so I got the head a 3 angle valve cut and milled it a 30ths to bump the power a lil bit I know I know its only a little bit</TD></TR></TABLE>

Make sure to buy an adjustable cam gear. You need to advance your timing 1* for every .012" milled, so 2-3 degrees.

 

ya I have one but every one tells me something diffrent some shop in az that does nothing but H and F series motor tuning told me to do 1 1/2 degrees then bisi told me to do 2 degrees now you say 2-3 degrees thats one thing in worried about

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlUAc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya I have one but every one tells me something diffrent some shop in az that does nothing but H and F series motor tuning told me to do 1 1/2 degrees then bisi told me to do 2 degrees now you say 2-3 degrees thats one thing in worried about</TD></TR></TABLE>

The rule of thumb is 1* for every .012" milled. That means you need to advance it 2 1/2*, but you can only go in 1* increments, so 2* is right.

 

ok ok now my ? is on my cam it says each mark=2degrees crank. So what only advance it one mark

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlUAc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok ok now my ? is on my cam it says each mark=2degrees crank. So what only advance it one mark </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, that would be 1 degree on the cam, as a crank gear is exactly %50 smaller than the camgear.