Please don't tell me about HASport, Avid, Enjo, ..... whoever else you can think of.


EKs can use a combination of OEM mounts to put a B series in a late model Civic. The results are a Civic that purrs. It is as if the car came that way from the factory, no vibrating, you can hear your stereo at less than half of full blast. It's a beautiful thing.

I've read on here that back before HASport there were guys welding DA mounts into EFs.

I've looked around and haven't found any of them.

Does anyone have a link to a site that outlines DA --> EF mounts?

 

I know this isnt what you want but check it out..

http://www.performanceforum.co....html

 

IF i REMEMBER CORRECTLY

you use a stock ls tb side mount

they rear is stock & you move it over a space

the tranny side gets drilled out & you get a stock body mount from a da & weld that one on to ef body & use a da tranny mount

I know when you weld in the da body mount you need to move it over but just don't remember how much

 

trust me just buy the motor mounts i use to have a crx with it i know how its done but if you want it jimmy rig this is what you need,, ok you need da mounts and the post mount you need to grind off the lil rivets on the post mount so it can fit on the bracket of the chassi then you need to cut off the original bracket that holds on to the tranny mount and re weld it a lil closer to the battery but then the battery dont fit you have to move it to the back so it a pain the *** trust your better off spending 200 dollars and a motor mount kit than welding it because if you blow your b series motor you can always trow back in your single slam and if you re weld the mounts you can never put back the single cam

 

So if I am understanding you guys, the tranny mount is the only one that needs cut up?

Maybe running 2 OEM mounts and one HASport mount would cut down on the ridiculous vibrations.


Yeah, I have seen Wes's site, he is pretty much my hero.

 

contact LHT performance: http://www.lhtperformance.net

they make adapter brackets so u can use stock EF mounts

 

I remember when I did my first swap back in 98 in my 89 DX hatch there wasn't many "cheap" options back then so I did it this way. I went to a junkyard and got a 90 LS integra's left, right and rear mounts.



1. This mount will have to be filed down on each side to fit in the civic/crx's frame mount (filed down where the bolt passes through).

2. You will need the cross member mount and the L bracket. The threaded hole that you use for the factory civic D15/D16 mount won't be used you will have to use the threaded hole beside it. Also you will have to bang down the lip on the rear cross member a little for the integra's mount to fit properly.

3. After you have the other two mounts lined up and in the car jack the transmission side up (have the passenger side mount attached to the tranny) to where the mount would be located. I used two plates of thick steel at least 1/8" and welded them to the frame after drilling out the old frame mounts. Once you have it lined up I sight it using a level to ensure its straight and shoot some tacks on the plates to put them in place and ensure the mount sits in it correctly and make some marks to drill holes for the bolt to pass through.

4. This mount doesn't have to be used. I had later turbo charged the B16A with no problems with the motor shifting to much and the mounts never made my car vibrate.

Hope this helps

Here's some of my pics back in 99-00. I lost most of my pics so I can't show you any really good close up pics of my setup.

 

i know what you are saying, but its really the urethane you use that determines the cars vibration.

easiest way would be to use "street" urethane on 3 piece aftermarket mounts, and using a jimfab crossmember (or something similar with a front mount) weld up something for the front mount.



if you think about it, weather its a DA mount welded to the car, or an aftermarket bolted in, thats not whats causing what you dont like about the feel of the car.

a lot of times guys dont hammer out the rear crossmember so the engine rests on it, which causes insane vibration like what i had on my old 90 DX.

what also happens to guys is they try to save money and buy motor mounts from people who dont specify what stiffness of urethane theyre getting, either because the seller has no idea, or they are trying to unload the more unpopular "race" stiffness stuff on whichever customers dont specify. makes sense if you think about it...

basically its a combination of that 4th mount, and urethane being too stiff which is meant to transfer the power to the ground better, but in turn makes you feel it more on the steering wheel, etc

one suggestion i could make is trying to find softer urethane inserts then what hasport uses, to give you that OEM feeling.

also for the record im not trying to say whats posted above me isnt bad ***, anyone who has the ***** to do something staright custom like that kicks ***. especially with no aftermarket saftey net. warranty and so on.




Modified by doublethink at 6:48 PM 4/18/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublethink &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know what you are saying, but its really the urethane you use that determines the cars vibration.

easiest way would be to use "street" urethane on 3 piece aftermarket mounts, and using a jimfab crossmember (or something similar with a front mount) weld up something for the front mount.



if you think about it, weather its a DA mount welded to the car, or an aftermarket bolted in, thats not whats causing what you dont like about the feel of the car.

a lot of times guys dont hammer out the rear crossmember so the engine rests on it, which causes insane vibration like what i had on my old 90 DX.

what also happens to guys is they try to save money and buy motor mounts from people who dont specify what stiffness of urethane theyre getting, either because the seller has no idea, or they are trying to unload the more unpopular "race" stiffness stuff on whichever customers dont specify. makes sense if you think about it...

basically its a combination of that 4th mount, and urethane being too stiff which is meant to transfer the power to the ground better, but in turn makes you feel it more on the steering wheel, etc

one suggestion i could make is trying to find softer urethane inserts then what hasport uses, to give you that OEM feeling.

also for the record im not trying to say whats posted above me isnt bad ***, anyone who has the ***** to do something staright custom like that kicks ***. especially with no aftermarket saftey net. warranty and so on.




Modified by doublethink at 6:48 PM 4/18/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

to everything he said.

I have the "street" inserts and have become use to the vibrations. It isn't really all that bad, but I can see it being annoying to some. I kind of can't wait to get another DD that gets better gas milage than the Jeep (wife's DD) and the CRX.

....hmmmm....perhaps a Fit

 

I like the vibrations, like a massage chair!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF8kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I like the vibrations, like a massage chair!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I'm sure in Alabama where it gets no colder than 40 degrees, for 2 days in the winter, the aftermarket mounts seem fine but up in the cold states where winter is a steady 35 degrees or less for 2 months, the HASport mounts are like punishment.

In the spring, summer, and most of fall, yeah the HASport mounts aren't too bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnieChimpo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but up in the cold states where winter is a steady 35 degrees or less for 2 months, the HASport mounts are like punishment.

In the spring, summer, and most of fall, yeah the HASport mounts aren't too bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>

very good point, that winter the vibration was more unpleasant for me as well.

Another thing to consider is since the hasport kit only uses the three mounts they may have found that stiffness to be the minium to remain safe and not overly twist without that front mount.

which leads me back to my original idea of getting that front mount in use somehow, which would inturn allow for the safe use of softer urethane.

im going to be throwing that same b16 into my hf at some point this month, if you come up with anything post it up here id be down to try a few things.

 

I use them in my B18C turbo EF, love them.

I will post some pics in a few days for you to check out.

 

actally the mounts on the trans and the other side of the motor just hold it there they dont do much vibration wise, its the front and rear that make the difference , im using a stock 90 integra rear mount (and no front mount)with a place racing mounts for the other 2, and it doesnt vibrate bad at all.

 

I believe crxbart knows about this, i may be wrong but i think it remember reading something about it from him.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublethink &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
a lot of times guys dont hammer out the rear crossmember so the engine rests on it, which causes insane vibration like what i had on my old 90 DX.

what also happens to guys is they try to save money and buy motor mounts from people who dont specify what stiffness of urethane theyre getting, either because the seller has no idea, or they are trying to unload the more unpopular "race" stiffness stuff on whichever customers dont specify. makes sense if you think about it...



Modified by doublethink at 6:48 PM 4/18/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>


not hammering out the crossmember is the BIGGEST problem. im using hcp mounts and the car feels like stock at idle.