Hey all,

Pulled into the driveway today and heard a loud smack. It looks as though where my Rear LCA mounts to the wheel side has broke loose.

The hole where the LCA bolts to the area behind the brake has torn open.

Is this the entire rear trailing arm that needs replaced, or is there an easier fix?

If the trailing arm does need replaced how tough of a job is it?


The car with the problem is a 91 CRX SI. I have a beater 4th gen hatch. Would the rear trailing arm be the same?

Any help would be grealy appreciated.


Sorry no pics, but I hope I did a good enough job describing to get some replys.

Thanks,

Joe

 

I've uploaded a picture (not actual car) to show what I'm talking about



The circle area is the area w/ problem.

The black blotch is where the metal hole has torn open.

EDIT

Anyone know what may have caused this. Doesn't look rusted out or anything, but just torn apart.

Possible I could weld some big washers on there to close the hole? I really dont want to replace the whole trailing arm. Looks like a painful job. ..


-
Joe

 

Yeah you need a new trailing arm. Damn you're lucky that happened in your driveway!!

You should be able to use the trailing arm from the DX....undo the 4 Torx bolts that hold the brake assembly to the trailing arm on each, and swap.

 

Hey,

Thanks for the help.

The car I'll be pulling the trailing arm off is not the 91 DX Hatch in my sig, but a different beater. 89 possibly guessing its a dx (believe its a 4sp)..I'm really not sure and its kinda of buried behind my garage.

Can someone confirm that the trailing arms are the same across the board, both the CRX and Civic Hatches?


Much appreciated

-joe

 

Yup looks like your will need a TA. I would think the hole was rounded out though due to a loose bolt and I would highly recommend looking to see this was the problem. I would check where it bolts up to see if it have been working its way loose. That part doesn't just fail.

CRX = Civic TA's,

 

90-91 CRX SI has rear disc right? His beater donor car has drums. Im not sure if the disc brake hardware can be adapted to the drum TA??

 

BUMP.

Anyone know if the trailing arms are the same across the board. Disc brakes on one/ Drums on donor being a problem?

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Digitalcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've uploaded a picture (not actual car) to show what I'm talking about



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Sorry for being O/T, but that has to be the most colorful rear suspension I've ever seen. All 3 primary colors... wow.

I'm pretty sure you can put Discs on Drum trailing arms, but I'm not positive. Even if it bolts on, the brake line holders might not match...

 

I was told that there are different TA some are "stamped" and some are "forged". I don't know what models have what, but my 88HF has stamped TAs. In my search for rear disk, some sell w/ the TA and some don't. I was told the whole assembly can be swapped either way. Hope that help alittle anyways.

 

Hey,

Thanks for all the help guys.

I guess I'll have to get out there this weekend and try.


I'll also be swapping bilteins w/ neuspeed race springs 2" over from my 91 DX Hatch. Anyone know the cheapest place online to some Ingalls adjustable front ball joints for the front to correct camber/toe?

Thanks

Joe

 

wow i thought i was the only one who had this problem, one of my earlier crx's had the same problem, the black marked part for my trailing arm had rusted through and broke off while i was driving...it was a serious scare but managed to get my my car off the road and got towed back home,

i ended up replacing the entire trailing arm from a 90-93 DA teg and it fit just fine..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperHonDad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was told that there are different TA some are "stamped" and some are "forged". I don't know what models have what, but my 88HF has stamped TAs. In my search for rear disk, some sell w/ the TA and some don't. I was told the whole assembly can be swapped either way. Hope that help alittle anyways.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I could be wrong, but it sounds like your talking about LCAs, which did some in stamped or forged versions. Switching from one design to the other requires switching rear struts to go with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sorry for being O/T, but that has to be the most colorful rear suspension I've ever seen. All 3 primary colors... wow.
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no green

i want to know what made that break. this is the first time i've seen that happen, and it itsn't a part that should wear or break like that.

were the suspension bolts tight? does the srr lca leave some space between the bushing and the cup on the ta that might allow it to twist excessively? how do the bushings on the lca's look?

has anyone else had this kind of failure? anyone with stock lca's?

 

I'm guessing that the bolt just wasnt tight and over time wore that hole bigger and bigger until it tore free.

Just bought the car...and hadnt really had time to crawl under it until now.