The mileage Project-Mu slotted rotors and pads are about 5000km.

Thing is when i brake from about 180km/h the steering and brake pedal shakes.
But when its slowed down to about 100km/h or so it stops doing that.
Only when in high speeds.

Since the rotors and pads are new i tried to balance the wheel to no luck.

Could it be install error?
Some said its the caliper alignment which is out.......

Any other ideas?

 

does your car pull to one side while you break?

 

Sounds like uneven pad deposits on the rotors to me.

Did you break the pads in properly?

 

Car doesn't pull to one side when braking.

Thing is i dont think the pad is broken in properly.Since the change of pads and rotors my dad just drove it for about 500km before handing it back to me.

I was on vacation when he took the car to change the stuff.

is there a way to inspect the rotors or pads for uneven wear?

 

yeah. take them apart and see if there are even wear

 

warped rotors...?

 

definitely brakes. I would say warped rotors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Circuit Star-29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">warped rotors...?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pyromaster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you break the pads in properly? </TD></TR></TABLE>

there are break in period for pads too?? if so how? just easy on them for 500 miles?

 

There is no such thing as warped rotors. pyromaster already hit the nail on the head. The shaking is due to uneven pad deposits on the rotor surface. Pads don't "wear" on a rotor unless you have some serious *** race pads. Pads are supposed to leave an even deposit on the rotor's surface. If they were not bedded in properly you will have uneven deposits that cause the wheel to shake.

The break-in for pads and rotors can differ from mfg to mfg, but most consist of slowly bringing the pads up to temp through several series of stops that increase in intensity. Just driving 500 miles won't cut it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wraith_G2IC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no such thing as warped rotors. pyromaster already hit the nail on the head. The shaking is due to uneven pad deposits on the rotor surface. Pads don't "wear" on a rotor unless you have some serious *** race pads. Pads are supposed to leave an even deposit on the rotor's surface. If they were not bedded in properly you will have uneven deposits that cause the wheel to shake.

The break-in for pads and rotors can differ from mfg to mfg, but most consist of slowly bringing the pads up to temp through several series of stops that increase in intensity. Just driving 500 miles won't cut it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Fact or opinion? In my opinion I have taken rotors off of my car and cut them only to find out that when cutting it was only cutting prob a third of the rotor. In order to get them even it would take cutting them past the point of garbage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fact or opinion? In my opinion I have taken rotors off of my car and cut them only to find out that when cutting it was only cutting prob a third of the rotor. In order to get them even it would take cutting them past the point of garbage.</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml

 

&lt;---- Definately have experienced warped rotors on my Chevy Blazer.... Vibration and shaking under light or heavy breaking..... Took the rotors to have them turned and the knife was only turning a fraction of the rotor..... They had to be turned multiple times to even them out and luckly didn't get out of the minimum thickness spec.....

Just my experience and 0.02

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no such thing as warped rotors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is false. Uneven pad deposits are more common, but rotors can certainly be warped as well. Something as simple as driving through a deep puddle with hot rotors can warp them from uneven cooling.


Follow the manufacturer's break in procedure and you should be fine. Worst case, take off the rotors and get them resurfaced, then re-break in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pyromaster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with that, but to say it doesnt exist is an incorrect statement. It happens, anything is possible. I for some reason break things on cars that leaves my friend(honda mechanic) and every other tech in the place speachless.

 

Yes, by the way it is FACT. Read up on thickness variations (TV) and also how the iron is changed due to the deposits and "hot spots". Your experience is only drawing conclusions from what your eyes and information available told you.

Is it possible to dig into a rotor, of course. But just because you see TV and have to cut deep to remove deposits or damage does not tell you the whole story. You have to understand how things happen, not just the end result.

If it was so easy to warp rotors as many believe, there would be a ton of race cars crashed into the wall on any given Sat or Sun. Somehow they are able to run with rotors glowing red hot and not warp them. Gee, I wonder how they do that? Oh, and I missed the part when they come into the pits while it is raining to change rotors because they got wet........


Modified by Wraith_G2IC at 7:45 PM 4/17/2006

 

now now killer, I'm just saying its possible. I agree that uneven pad deposits is usually the case. But there is such a thing as a Warped Rotor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree with that, but to say it doesnt exist is an incorrect statement. It happens, anything is possible. I for some reason break things on cars that leaves my friend(honda mechanic) and every other tech in the place speachless.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I should have not quoted your entire reply. I agree there's such a thing as warped rotros- I posted that to show that most of the time uneven pad deposit is the true culprit.

 

Everything is "possible" under the right circumstances. It just doesn't happen with the frequency that so many believe.

The last "warped rotor" I saw was a dumb-*** buddy that checked 3 out of the 4 wheels when he changed them. Needless to say, the rotor being introduced to the pavement at 25mph around a corner when the wheel fell off did a good job of screwing it up.


Modified by Wraith_G2IC at 3:43 PM 4/18/2006

 

have you checked the rears, if the peddle is shaking bad it's usually in the rears

 

Have never checked the rear before.
But when it shakes i also hear a loud noise from the front also.

If i find out its the pads, can i sand it to get it even again?

 

So wait a minute... No such thing as warped rotors? I call BULLSHIT!!! I'll make sure to take a pic or 2 of the next rotor I turn that is warped. Hell, when I get a new set of rotors (cheapo autozone blanks) I ALWAYS turn them for this exact reason. While it may be more common to have uneven pad deposit on the rotor, ruling out a warped rotor deserves a

Edit: To the OP, have you had the tires rebalanced? Maybe weights fell off, possibly tires have uneven wear or bubbles. Check the simple stuff first.

 

Have you read the entire article before opening your mouth? Apparently not. Please note the name of the author of the article posted on StopTech's site, and then contact him to say he is full of ****. In doing so you will only make yourself look like a fool.

Believe it, or don't, I couldn't care less. The point is understanding what happened and how to avoid it. The OP is experiencing this shaking due to improper bedding of the pads. IF you catch it early & the pads are still even, you can turn the rotor to cut the deposits out. If it has gone on too long the deposits + hot spots will be too deep in the rotor to cut out and the shaking will return soon after.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wraith_G2IC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you read the entire article before opening your mouth? Apparently not. Please note the name of the author of the article posted on StopTech's site, and then contact him to say he is full of ****. In doing so you will only make yourself look like a fool.

Believe it, or don't, I couldn't care less. The point is understanding what happened and how to avoid it. The OP is experiencing this shaking due to improper bedding of the pads. IF you catch it early & the pads are still even, you can turn the rotor to cut the deposits out. If it has gone on too long the deposits + hot spots will be too deep in the rotor to cut out and the shaking will return soon after. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If that is towards me I have one question....

Have you ever done a brake job yourself?

 

I will try to re-balance the wheel this weekend and also take out the pads to inspect.

What do you guys mean by "turn the rotor to cut the deposits out"?