so i had a good haul at the junkyard today, got some dx/si hubs/knuckles, 91 integra ecu(pr4 i believe), 92 teg clutch cable and throttle cable, and 92 teg shift linkages. all in all spent $72 with a trade of an ecu i had no use for, not bad.

anyways to the point. with my new shift linkages i got another shifter(no extra charge ). so has anyone chopped their shifter down a little just for a temporary short shifter? if so any notes/observations?

i know that real short shifters are changed in geometry and design, so obviously thats the way to go, but im on a really tight budget and this just fell on my lap so here i am.

is there a way to chop a section out of the top and maybe change something on the bottom(angle or length) to make for a decent home brew short shifter?

thanks


ps search is down so i couldn't find any past threads/

 

bump for the late night fab guys

 

You lengthen the bottom(below the ball) to make the throw shorter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by essex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You lengthen the bottom(below the ball) to make the throw shorter. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly. Take shifter number one, cut it right above the pivot bushing. Take shifter number two, cut it right below the ball. Weld piece from number 2 on number 1. Voilà! DIY short shift. At least that's how I would do it if I didn't already have a brand name short shifter.

 

hey thats a good idea. im prolly going to try that soon. will post pics and results.

 

looking foward to your DIY

 

Cutting the top down decreases throw as well, the shorter it is the less your hand travels when shifting. There are of course 3 downsides to that method. When you add to the bottom be sure to measure for clearences in relation to your exhaust. Alternately if you have a spare 15.00 you can get one of Ebay shipped for that amount. There is no point in spending big bucks for a brand name, it's a freaking piece of metal. I got one a while back, it was heavy (a positive) and used ball bearings instead of a sleeve bearing. It was 14.98 shipped and greatly reduced throw by being both shorter then stock (but not so much so to negatively affect reach) and a extended bottom that left a good amount of clearence between it and the exhaust. If you make your own and need measurements let me know.

 

You can also raise the pivot point.

 

Just another Idea I am not sure how strong it would be.


Cut the shifter in half inbetween the pivot ball and the bottom bearings.

Use a pipe die to cut threads on both ends of the shifter.

Then thread them back together with a steel coupling for a gas line.

It will be adjustable.

Once you find the sweet spot tack weld the three pieces together.

 

what wrong with a stock shifter?

 

there isn't anything wrong with the stocker. im just the type of guy who likes to mess around with my welder when i get the chance.

i have been overwhelmed with other projects at the moment, so no progress so far. when i have the money to get some new bushings i will also do a DIY write up.

 

I had a spare shifter laying around and this is what I did. Cut an inch off above the ball, then weld that material below the ball. Then I added a little more of an angle twords the top to put the **** closer to me, cleaned it up and powder coated it. Never installed it though so i can't say how it works. What does make a big difference though is replacing the rubber washers, removing the rust and adding fresh grease to the pivot bearing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by essex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You lengthen the bottom(below the ball) to make the throw shorter. </TD></TR></TABLE>

so chop the bottom and weld it back with something longer.


but how would i do this without a welder?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tekstyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so chop the bottom and weld it back with something longer.


but how would i do this without a welder?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I say MacGyver it and use duct tape with a clothes pin and the spring from a ball point pin to secure it together.

 

you an pick up a shortshifter on ebay for like 12 bucks shipped to ya

 

hmm.. sounds like a plan.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboLaxx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I say MacGyver it and use duct tape with a clothes pin and the spring from a ball point pin to secure it together.</TD></TR></TABLE>

does anyone know if the ball point to the linkage is hollow or solid?

 

pretty sure the ball is solid, but it is pipe on the bottom. when you weld in a piece to make it longer, don't make it too long or it will be hitting your exhaust.

i've modified a stock one before with no problems and i've also made a completely new one out of billet aluminum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by weiRtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pretty sure the ball is solid, but it is pipe on the bottom. when you weld in a piece to make it longer, don't make it too long or it will be hitting your exhaust.

i've modified a stock one before with no problems and i've also made a completely new one out of billet aluminum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, i m not talking about the ball itself. i am referring to the piece between the ball and the linkage. the "pipe" piece. because if it was solid, i can tap it with a drill tap and put a ball joint rod end on it.