Okay...The DOHC ZC is in and starts up but has a rough idle and then engine check light comes on and throws the codes 4, 8, and 9. The idle jumps to around 1500-2k and sounds more calm. Also, there is a 2 pin connection that was connected right behind the D16A6 intake manifold on the lower right side but the DOHC ZC does't have. I checked the timing a good 10 times and it looks good but when i checked it with the timing gun it's firing way off so is this because i have a bad dist.? Also, it is misfiring especially for cyclinder No. 3.


Modified by 90crxdohczc at 9:47 AM 4/13/2006


Modified by 90crxdohczc at 9:49 AM 4/13/2006

 

connector was for fast idle control valve on the Si - not needed on ZC - should be 2-wire connector with one blue wire and one black/yellow wire - just tape it back to the harness - do you have spark plug wires in correct location on the distributor cap? codes 4 & 8 are distributor and 9 is CYL position sensor on exhaust camshaft - these codes usually show up if cam timing is not correct

 

Yes, i remember reading one of your replies that showed the firing order and i just bought new spark plug and spark plug wires.

 

sorry, edited last post

 

um did you get it fixed? Check your wiring on the distributer that you had to do as well. This can cuase a code 9 as well.

 

Correct me if I am wrong but the two cam gears has UP which are suppose to be on top on while the crank is on TDC right? Also, there are two lights which lines up but i am not sure how and where they're suppose to line up at. I tried searching for pictures and googled it but came up with nothing so far. Thanks!

 

Well, i am triple checking on that right now about the wires because I de-pinned the wires from Si harness and pinned them into the ZC Dist. connection so I am double checking on if the wires went to the right slots. Thanks!

 

If I remember correctly there is an extra slot on the ZC connector. your going from a round to a square plug. Try a search at http://www.thezcr.com for a diagram of how to wire that up.

 

I am 90crxdohczc's brother this is the diagram I used when I depinned the old connector and repinned the zc distributor connector.

 

Yes, i found a few diagrams and i used all of them which were all the same information and i just finished checking on the wirings and they look correct. It is driveable and everything just that those codes come up. Very torquey on the down low but no top end so i am pretty sure it has something to do with either the timing or the dist. Thank you though.

 

That is the right diagram. Make sure that everything is tight I know I had a pin come out and it cuase all kinds of havoc. Also make sure you are timming it right.

 

Did you make sure that it was at TDC when you set the timing? Just because the #1 cyl is at the top doesnt mean its at TDC. You have to take the dizzy cap off and make sure the rotor i pointing at the #1 spark plug wire. I forgot to do this once and my timing was way off and it ran like ****. Just something else for you to try if all else fails. Good luck man

 

Yeah, i just checked that is at TDC on the crank pulley and the cam gears and the rotor is at No. 1. Thank you.

 

There are 2 set of lines that I see on the crank pulley. When rotating counter clockwise I see 3 lines come up first then a little later 1 line. I lined up the 1 line to the markers on the timing belt cover. I had a long screw driver on the first piston to see if it was TDC and it seems like it is. This is what my cam gears look like at TDC.

 

What dot are you lining it up with on the drive pully?

 

I am using the Si crank pulley and at TDC there are three lines together and one far one which is suppose to be the one that it is suppose to be at when it is at TDC correct?

 

No you want TDC at the middle dot of the 3. I just called my brother to confirm this cuase he was the last one to time my car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mengy007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There are 2 set of lines that I see on the crank pulley. When rotating counter clockwise I see 3 lines come up first then a little later 1 line. I lined up the 1 line to the markers on the timing belt cover. I had a long screw driver on the first piston to see if it was TDC and it seems like it is. This is what my cam gears look like at TDC.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
TDC is the mark off to the right by itself - gears in that picture are not lined up correctly

should look like this

 

Yeah that is pretty much what we did too using the screw driver. I was able to get rid of the code 8 but 4 and 9 are still being thrown. Thanks!

 

sent you email

 

Ok this is wierd now. We went over to our cousin's house and threw his ecu (crx si) in and first thing that came up. The code 4 was gone now... only throwing code 9. We switched back our ecu and still just code 9. This is giving me some sorta hope that I don't have to replace the Dizzy. wierd....

 

Code 9 - No. 1 Cylinder Position Sensor

It's the third sensor in the dist., and it detects the position of the No. 1 Cylinder, as the base for the Sequential Injection. It can also be located on the camshaft of DOHC engines.

CYP sensor is mounted on the exhaust cam on the ZC.

If the dist. base bearing starts failing, it will heat the sensor(s) up, destroying the magnetism thus causing a code(s). It will lose 10% of it's strenght, each time it is heated up to 170 degrees plus.

In most cases, replacing the distributor is the only alternative. Especially if the bearing has failed.
Honda does don't stock the bearing by itself, but other after-market compaines are said to have one.

If you have problems starting the engine, or drivability after the install check your cam aligment. The seizing bearing might have caused it to jump a tooth/notch or two. From the extra drag due to the bearing failing.
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Could this mean a bad crank angle sensor? I rechecked the wiring to the green plug with 2 wires on the exhaust cam and they are correct. The wierd thing is how did the other 2 codes just go away.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mengy007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Code 9 - Could this mean a bad crank angle sensor? I rechecked the wiring to the green plug with 2 wires on the exhaust cam and they are correct. The wierd thing is how did the other 2 codes just go away.</TD></TR></TABLE>
DOHC ZC CYL position sensors rarely, if ever, go bad - code 9 for 99.9% of the time indicates your exhaust camshaft timing is off one or more teeth - did you reset ignition timing prior to swapping the ECUs? - my guess is that your intake cam is still not in time, but has been compensated for by turning the distributor - are the distributor attaching bolts pretty close to being in the center of the slots? - that is where they should be

 

ok I checked the timing again, this time using the cam shafts themselves. There are little holes on the cams and holes on the head that you look through. The holes line up correctly. So if my dizzy timing is off it will through code 9?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mengy007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok I checked the timing again, this time using the cam shafts themselves. There are little holes on the cams and holes on the head that you look through. The holes line up correctly. So if my dizzy timing is off it will through code 9?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no - if everything is lined up correctly, make sure the wiring for the sensor on the exhaust camshaft is correct and secure - if that checks out, disconnect CYL sensor at the green 2-wire connector - measure resistance between the 2 wires on the connector on the sensor itself - should be between 700-1000 ohms - if not, bad CYL sensor - if resistance o.k. check for continuity between each wire on the sensor connector and ground - if either has continuity, bad sensor - if it checks o.k. plug sensor back in and go to ECU and unplug the 'C' connector - measure resistance between pins C1 and C2 on the harness connector - should be 700-1000 ohms - if not, check for open wire between ECU and CYL sensor - if o.k., try a known good ECU