question about koni yellow adjustables...new to struts...
i took this pic from .RJ's koni shock install. the two rings right above his thumb, is that something that you can drop the spring seat to the lower one for a lower stance on the springs?
slight height adjustability..........other than that, I don't know for sure. To be honest, I just got some yellows but I haven't put them on yet (so I am in just about the same boat as you). haha
The lower setting is for your stock OEM springs. This allows you to run a lowered ride height safely w/o cutting or swaping springs. The advantage is you have a lower center of gravity, and a cooler look (for less money).
The lower setting is NOT for lowering springs. If you use lowering springs on the lowered setting, they will be too soft & will bottom out quite a bit. This will destroy your shocks and probably a few other components.
The lower setting can also be used for Koni's or Ground-Control's special Koni style coil-over sleeves. Since height adjustable coil-over sleeves usually have very stiff spring rates (because they are made to lower 3+ inches), there are no rules. Basically, if your bottoming out, you must then raise them up...
The lower setting is NOT for lowering springs. If you use lowering springs on the lowered setting, they will be too soft & will bottom out quite a bit. This will destroy your shocks and probably a few other components.
The lower setting can also be used for Koni's or Ground-Control's special Koni style coil-over sleeves. Since height adjustable coil-over sleeves usually have very stiff spring rates (because they are made to lower 3+ inches), there are no rules. Basically, if your bottoming out, you must then raise them up...
I have the SP3's (neuspeed koni yellows) and I am I was fairly certain that that you can team them with lowering springs and use the various perch settings.........neuspeed/koni seem to agrees.
"The NEUSPEED/Koni shocks also feature an adjustable spring perch to level the car (5 machined grooves on the shock body for 5 positions of adjustment) - the most desirable handling position, as well as, a 20mm shorter droop length for use with lowering springs."
I know the SP3's are a slight upgrade from the regular yellows, but I got to think that the 3 machined grooves on the regular yellows serve the same purpose as the 5 grooves on the SP3's.
SUPPORT
Front:
http://www.neuspeed.com/produc...=1133
Rear:
http://www.neuspeed.com/produc...=1134
"The NEUSPEED/Koni shocks also feature an adjustable spring perch to level the car (5 machined grooves on the shock body for 5 positions of adjustment) - the most desirable handling position, as well as, a 20mm shorter droop length for use with lowering springs."
I know the SP3's are a slight upgrade from the regular yellows, but I got to think that the 3 machined grooves on the regular yellows serve the same purpose as the 5 grooves on the SP3's.
SUPPORT
Front:
http://www.neuspeed.com/produc...=1133
Rear:
http://www.neuspeed.com/produc...=1134
As mentioned above, the lower than stock grooves on a Koni Sport are made for lowering the car moderately (generally less than one inch) using stock springs.
Be very careful if you use a lowering spring with a perch on the lowering groove as you will probably end up too low with insufficient spring rate. The five Neuspeed extra grooves as in much smaller increments then the two front /three rear grooves on a Sport. Also, the lower grooves can be used if careful if you have a set of spring designed for a minor drop to allow you to go a small amount lower. If you have springs that drop the car a fairly big amount (say 1.5+ inches) then it would not be wise to go with a lower perch location than stock. The Neuspeed SP3s also have raised grooves for people with deep drop springs and buyer's remorse that their spring drop their car too low and this gives them a chance to raise the car back up a bit.
The motion ratio on these cars mees that as a generality the car might be lowered about 1.5 times the distance that perch clip is moved on the shock body. You need to be very careful as you risk dropping the car tool low for the rates and can cause damage to the parts or the car.
Be very careful if you use a lowering spring with a perch on the lowering groove as you will probably end up too low with insufficient spring rate. The five Neuspeed extra grooves as in much smaller increments then the two front /three rear grooves on a Sport. Also, the lower grooves can be used if careful if you have a set of spring designed for a minor drop to allow you to go a small amount lower. If you have springs that drop the car a fairly big amount (say 1.5+ inches) then it would not be wise to go with a lower perch location than stock. The Neuspeed SP3s also have raised grooves for people with deep drop springs and buyer's remorse that their spring drop their car too low and this gives them a chance to raise the car back up a bit.
The motion ratio on these cars mees that as a generality the car might be lowered about 1.5 times the distance that perch clip is moved on the shock body. You need to be very careful as you risk dropping the car tool low for the rates and can cause damage to the parts or the car.
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Thanks for the info/explanation!
It makes a lot more sense now.
I was planning on using either Tein H-Tech springs or Comptech Sports (both fairly mild/modest drops), so I guess I could play around a little with the perch settings, but after reading the prior, I think I am just going to leave the perch on the middle setting (its "stock" setting).
It makes a lot more sense now. I was planning on using either Tein H-Tech springs or Comptech Sports (both fairly mild/modest drops), so I guess I could play around a little with the perch settings, but after reading the prior, I think I am just going to leave the perch on the middle setting (its "stock" setting).
i have neuspeed yellows. 2.25F/2.0R. so i should just leave them on the perch they came on? will i have terrible camber wear? i have a 95 civic coupe.
I bought the neuspeed cup kit. It's koni yellows and neuspeed race springs. The springs are VERY stiff, so do you think I can run them on the lowest perch setting and be ok? Even though the springs state a 2.2" drop, there are people with neuspeed sport springs that are lower than me. I guess each spring is made differently
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by i97supratti »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I bought the neuspeed cup kit. It's koni yellows and neuspeed race springs. The springs are VERY stiff, so do you think I can run them on the lowest perch setting and be ok? Even though the springs state a 2.2" drop, there are people with neuspeed sport springs that are lower than me. I guess each spring is made differently
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, I think that would be a bad idea for the overall hanndling and liveability with the car and there is a very good liklihood that you can casue damage to some parts, especially risking bottoming the shocks internally. If your car is not sitting pretty close to the target ride height for the springs at the middle of the five perch locations, you should try to find out why. There is not that much variation in the springs. Changing perch locations will only serve to mask what any actual issues are and add more risks. You need to get some real, proper measurements from your car to get the ride height then compare them to measurements from a stock car. I think you will find that your car has been lowered more than you really think or may remember.
I can't stop you from doing it but it is not the right thing to do and you need to be willing to accept your own consequences if something goes bad.
</TD></TR></TABLE>No, I think that would be a bad idea for the overall hanndling and liveability with the car and there is a very good liklihood that you can casue damage to some parts, especially risking bottoming the shocks internally. If your car is not sitting pretty close to the target ride height for the springs at the middle of the five perch locations, you should try to find out why. There is not that much variation in the springs. Changing perch locations will only serve to mask what any actual issues are and add more risks. You need to get some real, proper measurements from your car to get the ride height then compare them to measurements from a stock car. I think you will find that your car has been lowered more than you really think or may remember.
I can't stop you from doing it but it is not the right thing to do and you need to be willing to accept your own consequences if something goes bad.
Hi Lee,
Quick questions
I have neuspeed race springs that should drop the care -2.25f and -1.75r.
i was planning on putting the rear on the lowest perch and the front on the stock perch so it could be a -2.25 drop all around, but from reading here seems that i could damage the rears. is this correct? i want to drop my car evenly, so would it be better if i just drop it -1.75 all around?
should i also install the dustboots?
and lastly would you happen to have pictures of a correct install? some people say the bumpstops should be at the top and some pics show them at the bottom. or can you state the oreder on how the koni components should be installed?
sorry for all the questions :/
Quick questions

I have neuspeed race springs that should drop the care -2.25f and -1.75r.
i was planning on putting the rear on the lowest perch and the front on the stock perch so it could be a -2.25 drop all around, but from reading here seems that i could damage the rears. is this correct? i want to drop my car evenly, so would it be better if i just drop it -1.75 all around?
should i also install the dustboots?
and lastly would you happen to have pictures of a correct install? some people say the bumpstops should be at the top and some pics show them at the bottom. or can you state the oreder on how the koni components should be installed?
sorry for all the questions :/
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 04punisher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have neuspeed race springs that should drop the care -2.25f and -1.75r. i was planning on putting the rear on the lowest perch and the front on the stock perch so it could be a -2.25 drop all around, but from reading here seems that i could damage the rears. is this correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't want to do that. If you move your rears to the "lowered" perch, you will lower the rear end another 1.5". Besides looking silly, you would be far too low for the soft progressive spring rates. That will cause bottoming out and damage...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 04punisher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should i also install the dustboots?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If your not using coil-over sleeves, then the dust boots can stay. Just make sure they don't hit the shock body as the piston compresses.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 04punisher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and lastly would you happen to have pictures of a correct install? some people say the bumpstops should be at the top and some pics show them at the bottom. or can you state the oreder on how the koni components should be installed?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honestly, it doesn't really matter if they where they are as long as they are between the upper-mount washers and the shock body. Whenever you see the bumpstop at the bottom, it is just because they decided to widen the inner hole. The larger hole just causes the bump stop to fall down the shaft. You are not supposed to hollow out the bump stop. People were mistaken in doing that because they thought the Koni shock shaft was thicker than OEM, but it isn't. The only part of the Koni shock that's thicker is where the upper-mount sits (not the bump stop). This doesn't effect the bump stop...
You don't want to do that. If you move your rears to the "lowered" perch, you will lower the rear end another 1.5". Besides looking silly, you would be far too low for the soft progressive spring rates. That will cause bottoming out and damage...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 04punisher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should i also install the dustboots?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If your not using coil-over sleeves, then the dust boots can stay. Just make sure they don't hit the shock body as the piston compresses.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 04punisher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and lastly would you happen to have pictures of a correct install? some people say the bumpstops should be at the top and some pics show them at the bottom. or can you state the oreder on how the koni components should be installed?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honestly, it doesn't really matter if they where they are as long as they are between the upper-mount washers and the shock body. Whenever you see the bumpstop at the bottom, it is just because they decided to widen the inner hole. The larger hole just causes the bump stop to fall down the shaft. You are not supposed to hollow out the bump stop. People were mistaken in doing that because they thought the Koni shock shaft was thicker than OEM, but it isn't. The only part of the Koni shock that's thicker is where the upper-mount sits (not the bump stop). This doesn't effect the bump stop...
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