INGALLS CAMBER KITS HELP!?
If you REALLY need to adjust your camber then yes, ingalls makes a good quality kit and it would be a good investment. The anchor bolts are a PITA to adjust though. I just installed the SPC adjustable balljoints and I like the way these adjust and install was easy.
yeah i have those too...i like them but there so hard to work with...i mean installing was easy but when it comes time to adjust man it kills you...i was actually thinking of getting skunk2's but does ingalls make the whole upper control arm like skunk2 for my dc4...
They are not bad to adjust, and even allow some caster adjustment because they move independently from each other, unlike the skunk 2 which moves the ball joint back and forth only.
they are not bad if you get a flex socket, and also depends what alignment machine.
At work we have the brand new hunter machine which allows you to lift the front wheels and adjust camber in real time, which helps because you can get it where you want and then you can tighten down the bolts with a flex and extension. then lower the car on the ground, redo your caster sweep and recheck everything before moving on to the rest of the adjustments.
One problem I have seen with that camber kit is that the steel sleeves are pressed in and even though the company claims they will not come out, I have seen them come out, they did on my own car and were rubbing on the control arm, I fixed this by welding the sleeve in place.
Another thing is to trim or grind down the tip of the control arm where the ball joint is to get some more clearance and make sure the control arm does not hit your upper wheel well, shock mounting panel thingy.
Product re-engineered and better than anything else available now.
they are not bad if you get a flex socket, and also depends what alignment machine.
At work we have the brand new hunter machine which allows you to lift the front wheels and adjust camber in real time, which helps because you can get it where you want and then you can tighten down the bolts with a flex and extension. then lower the car on the ground, redo your caster sweep and recheck everything before moving on to the rest of the adjustments.
One problem I have seen with that camber kit is that the steel sleeves are pressed in and even though the company claims they will not come out, I have seen them come out, they did on my own car and were rubbing on the control arm, I fixed this by welding the sleeve in place.
Another thing is to trim or grind down the tip of the control arm where the ball joint is to get some more clearance and make sure the control arm does not hit your upper wheel well, shock mounting panel thingy.
Product re-engineered and better than anything else available now.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KMk51188 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats up h-t what do u guys think about ingalls camber set is it any good or am i wasting my money on it here a pic 
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???</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have that on my 00 gsr, and the only real problem I have with it, is that I can't actually use the full adjustment range. The UCA comes into contact with the body, before the adjusters are all the way in. I suppose I could grint down the UCA some, or bash that wheel well in, but I'm not really a big fan of either of those modifications.
If you're looking to decrease camber, then it should be fine, assuming you don't hit the UCA into the top of the wheel well. Look inside, and you'll see a ridge. Mine will just barely clear, adjusted for more camber, so adjusted for less could cause contact.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by superdupervtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They are not bad to adjust, and even allow some caster adjustment because they move independently from each other, unlike the skunk 2 which moves the ball joint back and forth only.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Entirely true. Unintentionally, I ended up with 0.2 and 0.4 caster with the kit on the car. I could dial back in the stock caster, but would have to lose some camber to do so, because of the previously mentioned UCA contact.

or
???</TD></TR></TABLE>I have that on my 00 gsr, and the only real problem I have with it, is that I can't actually use the full adjustment range. The UCA comes into contact with the body, before the adjusters are all the way in. I suppose I could grint down the UCA some, or bash that wheel well in, but I'm not really a big fan of either of those modifications.
If you're looking to decrease camber, then it should be fine, assuming you don't hit the UCA into the top of the wheel well. Look inside, and you'll see a ridge. Mine will just barely clear, adjusted for more camber, so adjusted for less could cause contact.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by superdupervtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They are not bad to adjust, and even allow some caster adjustment because they move independently from each other, unlike the skunk 2 which moves the ball joint back and forth only.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Entirely true. Unintentionally, I ended up with 0.2 and 0.4 caster with the kit on the car. I could dial back in the stock caster, but would have to lose some camber to do so, because of the previously mentioned UCA contact.
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SpoonCivicSedan
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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May 21, 2003 07:58 PM




