Look, I need new rear trailing arm bushings. ASAP

I DO NOT WANT ANY NOOB REPLYS BASED ON WHAT YOU "THINK"

I need to know exactly why or why i should not get ES bushings. Yes i hear that they bind, BUT WHAT DOES THAT MEAN. My car is for daily street driving, and MAYBE sometimes will occasionally autocross.

$30 for ES bushings at autozone vs $100+ dollars for mugen. There better a dam good reason why I should get mugen, not "just because".

Thank you for your time.

 

I searched many times and all everyone says is get es , get mugen, back and forth. Which is best for what.

 

i dont personaly know the answer to your question but i would opt for the mugen ones..... not just to say i have mugen bushings woohoo but just to know that i have the best part on there so i shoulnt have to worry about it

hope this helps !

(my off to work post)

Smokey!

 

thanks for the noob post based on no evidense like i specifically asked not to receive.

 

mugen is geared twords performance, es stuff.. well come the expletive on its.. it's bright red and every ricer puts them in.

shrug.. i got mugens myself

 

generally, because of the propensity to bind, i would recommend not using poly bushings on the rta. they also dont last as long as hard rubber.

as far as the mugen goes, its a trailing arm bushing. unless you have to have every single jdm part ever made, throwing a bunch of extra money at a bushing because of the mugen name is a waste imo. just go oem rubber, cheaper, lasts forever and more than likely performs almost exactly the same as the mugen piece.

 

OEM isn't much cheaper than mugen.....

If you aren't going to track your car just get the ES bushings but if you want to have peace of mind that your RTA bushings won't bind get OEM or mugen, which ever you can find cheaper.

 

would you explain what "binding" exactly means. or direct me to where i can see a diagram of how this matters and works.

 

energy: one word, JUNK! they do not allow the trailing arm to rotate on both axis. it only allows it to rotate one one axis. the mugen allows the stock movement.

 

There's a thread around here in which a guy compared the Mugen and new style OEM rear TA bushings. He found no difference. I've heard that Honda re-did the original rear TA bushing for EG's.

 

I called king motorsports just now to ask about the mugen bushings. The mugen comes as a whole which includes the metal rod in the middle while the es does not. es = 30 or so without metal rod (also could bind or give away), mugen = 114 and is complete. So overall I would pay the extra and get the mugen oem for $114. I hope that helps.

 

Binding is a condition you reach where the suspension is supposed to give and it can't. It results in a sudden, unpredictable behavior in the car, usually at the worst possible moment.

You're fine with urethane on that particular bushing on a street car. Both the Prothane and ES bushing now utilize a floating center pin (or re-use I should say).

Rubber only lasts a couple of years. It shows wear almost immediately. Urethane when torqued correctly and lubed periodically, far outlasts rubber. In that particular position, I've never seen a urethane bushing wear out.

Don't listen to people who use unnecessarily large words for no reason. It's the stupidest trick in the book.

 

I have the energy suspension bushings on my sol. All of them worked fine except for the upper rear controll arm. When I installed those they didn't fit as tightly as the OEM bushings and would walk to the lower side after a few hundred miles. I ended up having to just replace the upper rear controll arm because of this problem, it kept throwing out my alighnment and the upper arm rubbing against the hub assembly wasn't that good either. I've had the kit for well over 2 years now and that is my only complaint. However I don't have any hands on experience with the Mugen kit, I don't believe they even had a bushing kit out back when I purchased mine or I would have went with them.

Oh, and my profle is noob. I'm an old skool playa. I know Obd I has nothing to do with starwars.

 

Yes, the poly bushings cause binding (which was explained above). They do not allow for proper movement of suspension.

The poly bushings require you to take your oem pin, remove ALL the rubber and then slip the pin into the urethan bushing, and insert that into the arm. The problem with that, is the pin tends to slide around inside the urethane when in use. This causes alignment to go off as well. And YES, I have seen this happen.
The only way that bushing lets the arm move, is left or right, which it shouldnt at all. The proper movement is for the arm to swivel at a fixed point, and urethane does not allow for this (whether torqued correctly or not).

I seriously would never trust the poly bushings, especially at this point.
I wonder who has a better design? Probably the company that works directly with Honda...

I am using Mugen units and could not be happier with their quality, fitment, and performance under all conditions.
Oh and yes, apparently Honda adapted the Mugen bushing as a replacement piece (I have never verified this, but it is the rumor)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumminforev &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the noob post based on no evidense like i specifically asked not to receive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumminforev &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do i need any special tools for installation, or can i cut my old pushing out and press this one in with a bar and a mallet?</TD></TR></TABLE>

forget you.


Modified by EG6_GUY at 3:14 PM 4/10/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG6_GUY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1589298</TD></TR></TABLE>

quick work, that was posted 4 minutes before you linked it

 

I have desided to purchase OEM honda bushings. got the pair for $84 dollars from a dealer online. Sweet info guys.

Do i need any special tools for installation, or can i cut my old pushing out and press this one in with a bar and a mallet?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumminforev &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the noob post based on no evidense like i specifically asked not to receive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for acting like a total dick when someone simply gives you an opinion, noob

 

I used a hammer, but there are 2 links in this thread that are for specific tools

 

yes i have seen the ES bushings in action and it is terrible. that is why i still have a set in my toolbox for future reference on what kind of bushing not to buy. i have personally been looking at those spherical trailing arm bushing to put in mine because they are starting to rot

 

I got the prothane master kit with the prothane trail arm bushing and it make the car stiff when I take corner with it. The prothane trail arm bushing is a solid piece with the metal thing that bolt up to the chassic it will not slide in and out like the energy supension bushing. Have to let a machine shop press it out in install it . I think the Prothane trail arm bushing is way better then the ES bushing for the trail arm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93civicB18C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should buy oem for any bushing, come on think about it, its a rubber bushing, buy it from the company who makes them in the first place</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree. your car needs to flex a little bit so having these super stiff bushing wont help that. just get stock.

 

get oem, they are less than $40 each at the dealer,

 

40 at a dealer, i dont know about that. give me the # to your dealer is this is true.

 

did you call your local honda dealer ?