My head gasket is leaking on my B18C. It leaks a little coolant out the front of the block coincidentally it leaks right down to where it says "B18C", that’s a slap in the face. Anyways so I went to King Motor sports and picked up a Mugen head gasket and then All About Speed and Donny hooked me up with a set of ARP studs ($30 cheaper than King). I need some help on how to install these bad boys. I am mechanically inclined, but never did any internal engine work.

so here are my questions.

1. Does anyone have a PDF copy of the Helms manual? (i tried Honda hookup, the
link failed)
or
Can someone tell me the easiest procedure for removing the head?(tall order,Iknow)

2. Is there any tips or tricks people can give me?

3. Do I really need new valve cover, intake, and exhaust gaskets if they look fine?

This is what I know

1. Have oil and coolant (I plan on doing a flush and change anyways after)

2. Mark things I disconnect

3. Have a extra set of hands to help lift off head (I'm not weak, but my buddy was all excited when i told him and offered to help)

So that’s my dilemma, I could really use some info, I plan on doing this Friday.

Here are some pics, because if you have pics people will read your post

 

Hear is what someone told me and more importantly here is the link to the PDF I was looking for

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Das Schmoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. http://tech.hybridgarage.com/t...l.pdf

2. Use baggies for all the nuts and bolts and label them accordingly. You don't have to remove the intake manifold. Just remove the nuts and then pull it back away from the head. When you remove the intake manifold bracket, chuck it as far as you can from the car and don't put it back on.

3. No, but if they haven't been replaced for a while, do it while it is all apart.

It isn't that hard of a job. Getting the manifolds off and all the millions of bolts required to gain access to the headbolts is just tedious.

I would also recommend getting the head resurfaced in case it is out of spec.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Come on engine Gurus, help a honda brother out!

 

Do or die day is tomorrow come on any tips, anyone any tricks to know to shave off some time?

 

hope this helps.
jdmlyfestyle does some good how-to's.
pm him if u need something!

http://jdmlyfestyle.com/how_to...t.htm

 

thanks for the help guys. I did it today, DravesEf stopped by to lend a hand A.K.A show me how to do it. We did everything and I put it back together. It started right up, but it was throwing a code and was idling low. then when i started it up again it didn't want to idle at all. it runs if you give it gas but when you let up, it dies. I don't know whats going on. I'm too tired to check the code. I'm probably missing a vaccum line or forgot to clip something back in. oh well if you guys have any ideas to what it could be. feel free to put in your two cents. looks like i'm taking the Accord to work tomorrow.

 

There could be a lot of thing such as vacuum hoses, plug in wrong sensor, timing maybe, and etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vintech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the help guys. I did it today, DravesEf stopped by to lend a hand A.K.A show me how to do it. We did everything and I put it back together. It started right up, but it was throwing a code and was idling low. then when i started it up again it didn't want to idle at all. it runs if you give it gas but when you let up, it dies. I don't know whats going on. I'm too tired to check the code. I'm probably missing a vaccum line or forgot to clip something back in. oh well if you guys have any ideas to what it could be. feel free to put in your two cents. looks like i'm taking the Accord to work tomorrow.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds to me like your MAP sensor plug and TPS plugs are mixed up.

 

I had the wrong clip in for Idle air control, it switched and now it's fine, no check engine light too.

 

let me guess, mixed up with Evaporitive emissions purge solenoid.

 

yep, not that it matters. I drove to work on saturday and the belt slipped. when we did the headgasket on friday we slid the belt off the cam gears to get the cams out. then we slid the belt back on, it was tight as hell, because it was a PITA. I guess not tight enough. When I got to work I had to punch out for a bit and me and one of the non-hack techs took it apart sure enough the intake cam was advanced like three - five teeth. I lined everything up and tighened that belt hardcore. It had shreded on the inside and had a couple of little chunks out. I tried to drive it home but the belt went on the freeway. When the belt slipped after I fixed it i could feel a loss of power i was sure that i had bent some intake valves, now i am sure i'm screwed in the valve department.


Modified by Vintech at 10:39 PM 4/9/2006

 

holy cow dude, that blows.

If you need help on maching work let me know.....a friend of mine owns an automotive machine shop.

 

Wow, that sucks, sorry to hear that. I can't believe it shredded so fast... My friend drove an overly loose timing belt on his crx for at least 10k mi and it never shredded, it jumped a few teeth, but then he just adjusted it with the timing gear since we couldnt get the crank pulley bolt off.