I have compressors already on the strut apring, and have compressed it somewhat. Service Manual says not to over sompress and to follow the manufacturer guidelines. Tokico says to follow the service manual.

I just need to know how far down to compress the spring before I attempt to take off the top nut. should the spring be real loose around the strut? Or should the spring be compressed just enough to get tension off the top nut?

Don't want to shoot my eye out...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NoVALude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or should the spring be compressed just enough to get tension off the top nut?
</TD></TR></TABLE>



you just need to capture the spring and prevent it from expanding any further.

 

thanks for the quick reply. Of course now I realize that I do not have my wrench set with me to release the top nut...

 

NoVALude (4:34 PM 4/6/2006): quick question...how hard is the damn top nut to get off.....have an allen key wrench in the hole on top and using a wrench but can't hold the damn thing and turn the other way at the same time.....I am pretty sure I have the springs compressed enough that I should be good....UUUGGGHHHHh!!!!

Tyson (4:36 PM 4/6/2006): whats the issue? the allen key should not be slipping.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Tyson (4:36 PM 4/6/2006): whats the issue? the allen key should not be slipping.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Guess what I am trying to figure out is how to hold the allen wrench with one hand while I try to dislodge the nut with the other....


Is this easier with 2 people?

 

you got two hands right? just hold onto the allen key with one hand, hold the wrench with the other. it has to be a box end wrench, cant use a socket/ratchet, and i dont recommend an open ended wrench.

you dont have to worry about holding the shock, as long as you have the spring compressed properly.

its fairly simple....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> its fairly simple....</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah unless you are dealing with a strut nut that is over 12 years old and does not look like it has ever been touched.

 

pb blaster works good.

if you need more leverage on the allen key, stick a small socket in it and use an extension to increase the torque.

otherwise, just put a little elbow into it...

 

I HAVE NO ******* CLUE WHAT TO DO NOW...THING IS IMPOSSIBLE TO GET LOOSE....

I HAVE NO WAY TO BEAR DOWN ANY WEIGHT ON THE DAMN THING TO KEEP THE ALLEN WRENCH FROM SPINNING AND MY HAND HAS A CREASE IN IT FROM TRYING TO HOLD IT....'


DONE FOR NOW ... WILL MOST LIKELY JUST ORDER NEW **** AND CHUCK THE WHOLE ENTIRE OLD STRUT

 

why is the allen key spinning??? are you using the right allen key size? you stripped it??

if you stripped the allen key, then obviously thats not going to work anymore.

then your best bet is to take it to someone with a impact wrench and put some vice grips on the shock rod.

 

Ok, well tried that and now I think the allen key hole is stripped

expletive!

 

its not the end of the world. just take the shock to get it zipped off with a impact wrench.

 

Don't know anyone with an impact wrench and have no $$ to get it done at some shop (if they would even do that for me....)

 

just go to any shop, garage, neighbor with a air tank.... if youre nice, theyll do it for free. its just a quick zip on the gun.

take it easy tonite, calm down. this crap always takes longer than everyone else makes it seem when its your first time. trust me, everything i do takes longer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just go to any shop, garage, neighbor with a air tank.... if youre nice, theyll do it for free. its just a quick zip on the gun.

take it easy tonite, calm down. this crap always takes longer than everyone else makes it seem when its your first time. trust me, everything i do takes longer. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah figured to call it quits for the night and am putting together a computer desk chair....least it is new and has directions.

 

Use some channel locks and hold the metal shaft in place with them. If you are reusing the shock wrap a towel or something to keep the channel locks from tearing up the metal rod. When I didn't have air tools and the nut would get stuck or the allen hole would get stripped I would do this.

 

would you consider yourself mechanically inclined?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by opeth13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would you consider yourself mechanically inclined?</TD></TR></TABLE>


not professionally trained, but was able to disassemble a top end and bottom end with a service manual, along with prepping my old POS engine for removal to be replaced by a new H22A4....

so, I have to give myself a little credit for doing all that myself (with a buddy) and nothing but hand tools...especially since just about everything on the car looks like it was still OEM (so give or take about 13-14 years)....

 

Channel locks will ruin the threads on the shaft & make it impossible to remove the nut once it is broken loose. Just make a stop by a local tire shop & ask the mechanics for some quick help (skip the front desk). An impact gun should be able to break it loose without any trouble...

Good luck...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Channel locks will ruin the threads on the shaft & make it impossible to remove the nut once it is broken loose. Just make a stop by a local tire shop & ask the mechanics for some quick help (skip the front desk). An impact gun should be able to break it loose without any trouble...

Good luck...</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't hold the top of the shaft or whatever its called. Of course that will strip the threads. You hold the part that compresses into the shock body itself. Make sure you use a towel so you don't leave teeth marks in it.

 

Called the shop up the road and they will compress the spring and get the nut off for $20 a side ($40) total.....to save me the head ache of hand pumping the compressor and wrecking my hands......


need these hands for Sunday when the swap is going down!!!

 

At that price your paying about $240 an hour (will take 10 minutes)...

 

Like I said before....if I knew someone with air tools I would ask them to do it....cost me $45 to rent a damn compressor for the day.

I have spent an hour or so of my own time, to no avail....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At that price your paying about $240 an hour (will take 10 minutes)... </TD></TR></TABLE>

It wouldn't be worth it for them otherwise, as in the shop would rather not do it (for less). So, is it worth it for him for $20 a side? Seems like it.