What ground control spring rates should i use (F/R)? I got 4 pairs
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Ok I have 4 sets of springs. Before doing my turbo swap i ran the 200.64.58 in front and 180.64.44 in back and although it was good before the swap. But after the swap it was real sloppy in front, like the springs were too soft. Ao i got some stiffer springs coded:
165.64.96 and 0700.250.0400
I was wdonering, out of the 4 sets of springs I have which would be best in the front/back for good streetability with good handling?
Thanks
165.64.96 and 0700.250.0400
I was wdonering, out of the 4 sets of springs I have which would be best in the front/back for good streetability with good handling?
Thanks
do you know the rates? i tried to look on ground controls website and they didnt have the rates listed. i run the omni's 10k front 6k rear and they feel pretty good around town, maybe a little stiff. i would say just go with the stiffest sets, i dont think your ride quality will suffer too much, but i guess its kinda up to you.
you might get some more help in the suspension forum too.
you might get some more help in the suspension forum too.
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yeah i just called and got the rates/length and they are 250lb 7", 340lb 8", 400lb 7", and 545lb 6.5"
whatchya think?
400 in front and 545 in back or reverse?
whatchya think?
400 in front and 545 in back or reverse?
def 545 front / 400 or 340 rear. the omni's are 560 front, 335 back so you will be comperable. i always though the teins basic and ss were a bit too soft even though they are a geat product and provide an awesome ride quality. they are only like 390 front 170 rear
i think you wanna stay with the stiffer rates up front on a street application. i know the drag coilovers are always stiffer in the rear for traction. also some HPDE friends of mine use some crazy stiff rears but i think that also has to do with oversteer.
i think you wanna stay with the stiffer rates up front on a street application. i know the drag coilovers are always stiffer in the rear for traction. also some HPDE friends of mine use some crazy stiff rears but i think that also has to do with oversteer.
really i have no idea. i mean i know stiffer rates will reduce body roll and thats good but thats about where my knowledge stops. but since you asked i got kinda interested and did a bit of research in the archives i found a pretty cool post about picking spring rates and how it should be determined by your vehicles weight distribution as well as how you want the car to handle. i copied this from an old post
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Find out your car's front to rear weight distribution. You can buy the microfiche off ebay or if your car's weight has been altered drastically, you can put it on some scales.
Pick a front rate. Most people pick between 300-500 (trial and error). Lower rates work better for low traction surfaces such as dirty, wet, or poor quality asphalt, and follow the road better especially on bumpy surfaces. Higher rates are chosen to reduce body roll and to prevent the suspension from bottoming out, but absolutely suck for street driving. Most people don't understand that stiffer springs = less traction.
Now you proportion out the rear rate to get your desired steady state handling balance. For instance, you choose 350 for the front, and your weight bias is 60/40; 350 divided by 60%, multiplied by 40% = 233. So theoretically the rates 350 front, 233 rear would be neutral; if your swaybars were also proportionately neutral, which they're not, they're biased toward understeer. Most people prefer a slight spring bias toward oversteer, so add 50 or 100 to the rear rate (trial and error if you can afford to buy some custom springs). In this case you should end up with something like 350/275. Don't get too aggressive with the rear rate, it's much wiser to get a beafy adjustable rear swaybar. With a slight spring bias toward oversteer, you should try increasing the front shock rebound stiffness in relation to rear so that the car isn't too loose on corner entry.
If your spring rates are in different units, you use the same method.
Most people will try and dial out all understeer with springs alone. I don't know how you're going to do that considering that understeer is built into the brake proportioning system as well. Not to mention that people call every suspension problem they encounter "understeer". </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Find out your car's front to rear weight distribution. You can buy the microfiche off ebay or if your car's weight has been altered drastically, you can put it on some scales.
Pick a front rate. Most people pick between 300-500 (trial and error). Lower rates work better for low traction surfaces such as dirty, wet, or poor quality asphalt, and follow the road better especially on bumpy surfaces. Higher rates are chosen to reduce body roll and to prevent the suspension from bottoming out, but absolutely suck for street driving. Most people don't understand that stiffer springs = less traction.
Now you proportion out the rear rate to get your desired steady state handling balance. For instance, you choose 350 for the front, and your weight bias is 60/40; 350 divided by 60%, multiplied by 40% = 233. So theoretically the rates 350 front, 233 rear would be neutral; if your swaybars were also proportionately neutral, which they're not, they're biased toward understeer. Most people prefer a slight spring bias toward oversteer, so add 50 or 100 to the rear rate (trial and error if you can afford to buy some custom springs). In this case you should end up with something like 350/275. Don't get too aggressive with the rear rate, it's much wiser to get a beafy adjustable rear swaybar. With a slight spring bias toward oversteer, you should try increasing the front shock rebound stiffness in relation to rear so that the car isn't too loose on corner entry.
If your spring rates are in different units, you use the same method.
Most people will try and dial out all understeer with springs alone. I don't know how you're going to do that considering that understeer is built into the brake proportioning system as well. Not to mention that people call every suspension problem they encounter "understeer". </TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont do any auto-xing or anything like that and my car has never end been down the drag strip. i tossed the omni's on cause they were a great price for a full coil-over setup. they are nice and stiff and they feel good for my daily driving, maybe a touch stiff. then again my car has no swaybars so adding the coilovers made like a 100x improvement over stock.
speaking of sway bars ive had the suspension techniques kit sitting in my basement for almost a year now. i really should put those on one of these days. im so freaking lazy sometimes.
speaking of sway bars ive had the suspension techniques kit sitting in my basement for almost a year now. i really should put those on one of these days. im so freaking lazy sometimes.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dpetro1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
speaking of sway bars ive had the suspension techniques kit sitting in my basement for almost a year now. i really should put those on one of these days. im so freaking lazy sometimes. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I run that kit, its pretty nice
speaking of sway bars ive had the suspension techniques kit sitting in my basement for almost a year now. i really should put those on one of these days. im so freaking lazy sometimes. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I run that kit, its pretty nice
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