Ok so i recently just fixed my bleeder screw and put the the caliper back on. I tried bleeding my brakes but for some reason the pedal is still soft, i want to get it back to the stock feeling. The process i did was. Start from the passenger rear, I had my friend pump the brakes for about 30 times half way. Then i told him to hold it at half way point. I then opened the valve I did this til no bubbles were in the fluid coming out. I also then did it to all calipers. But once we were done we took it for a test run the brakes were still soft. Should i be having my friend put the pedal to the ground? Someone told me that where ever you pump your brakes to thats when the braking point is. IS that true? i searched and came up with some threads about gravity bleeeding. Can someone plz help me with like a Step by step exactly how to bleed brakes? im getting really frustrated with this process

 

When I did mine, I did all the way down when pressing the pedal....

 

when u drive it is the brake pedal like stock feeling? when you bleed your brakes applying the brakes all the way to the ground?

 

just did mine on my 94 accord, they turned out great. i did the old pump 5 times and hold, when your partner cracks the bleeder, foot to the floor, carefully! this was on a brand new master cylinder mind you. i think the fear is that if you have an older master cylinder the insides may be rusting and going full stroke may run a rusty, pitted shaft through your seal causing a tear and potential leak. also keep in mind bleed order. my dad has pounded in my head rear right, rear left, front right, front left. not the case on a 94 accord. the bleed order is passenger rear, driver front, driver rear, passenger front. check your manual to see what yours is, and don't assume like i did. this process does take a little bit of touch too. i used a clear tube on the bleeder with the other end submerged in brake fluid to watch for bubbles and prevent new ones from coming back in. i did it enough times to flush all of the black fluid out and new fluid in. remember to check the resevior, keep it filled. or a power bleeder is nice too. i found it easier to do having my wife on the pedal and me at the bleeder. took 20 mins. takes longer trying to hook up the power bleeder. good luck.

 

http://www.ozaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35

hope this helps..

 

Guy #1 has to pump the brakes a few times then hold it down. Guy #2 opens the bleed screw (pedal sinks to the floor, and fluid comes squirting out) Guy #1 has to hold the brake pedal down, until Guy #2 re-tightens the bleed screw. If the brake pedal is released before the bleed screw is tightened, air will get sucked into the brake lines. repeat a few times for each wheel, or until all the air is out. Hope this helps. good luck.
PS: it helps if you can use a closed end wrench positioned to where it works like a valve handle (one motion for closing and one motion for opening the bleed screw) without having to re-position the wrench every time.

A vacuum pump works great, and that way you don't have to push the master cylinder all the way in, risking damage to the seal.

 

Show your dad this link and then jump up and down telling him a Honda is not a Chevy, I'm sure Honda would not have this in the technician training if it wasn't the way to do it.

 

When you change pads but do not resurface rotors, there can be an uneven surface for the pad to meet. This causes a spongey feeling, as the brake pad is flexing trying to meet the rotor surface.