CAn someone tell me Bent Valves or No?
Last Night I was Racing a CLK - stayed right next to him mirror to mirror till i mis-shifted fifth and rev'd the motor real high. I dont even know exactly how high cause the VAFC read only 9999 so i am assuming a was somewhere above that mark.
The engine seems to idle fine just idling between 1040-1050 sometimes 840-850 it dont go back and forth more then 10rpms.
My only concern is that my exhaust doenst sound good, it sounds as if i have full race cams. sorta like a bumbling sound.
Talks for a response ahead of time
Tomorrow i am going to look under the car and see if it can be a dent in the exhaust
Should i look into checking out my valves, How would i know if they are bent once i get to them?
The engine seems to idle fine just idling between 1040-1050 sometimes 840-850 it dont go back and forth more then 10rpms.
My only concern is that my exhaust doenst sound good, it sounds as if i have full race cams. sorta like a bumbling sound.
Talks for a response ahead of time
Tomorrow i am going to look under the car and see if it can be a dent in the exhaust
Should i look into checking out my valves, How would i know if they are bent once i get to them?
If you do a compression test you can find out which cylinders have bent valves. With a cylinder leak down test, you can find out which cylinders and intake or exhaust. What you need to do is get some new valves and a valve job. Have you ever pulled a head?
I am going to see if I can get my friends leak down tester w/hose
I got an air compressor so thats no problem i just dont have the sprk plug hose and those two guages...although there is two guages on my compressor.
Anyone have the helms manual? I am still waiting for mine --3 weeks now
Maybe someone can email or fax me the pages on the valve job deal and what the part numbers are for the parts.... I dont trust my car with outer people and i am pretty good with cars so i will do it myself but i wanna make sure that TYPE R valves go back in there.. I heard a story around here that a kid had his R valves checked in his civic and they toke them all out and replaced them with regular ones and he was none the wiser till he had a certified tech look at it.
As far as pulling the head never did it before on my car but helped a friend with his CRX.
ALL i need is the info on readjusting and i will be fine if i wasnt sure of my self i wouldnt jump in there
Do you know off any site that has this info besides looking for a helms owner
I got an air compressor so thats no problem i just dont have the sprk plug hose and those two guages...although there is two guages on my compressor.
Anyone have the helms manual? I am still waiting for mine --3 weeks now
Maybe someone can email or fax me the pages on the valve job deal and what the part numbers are for the parts.... I dont trust my car with outer people and i am pretty good with cars so i will do it myself but i wanna make sure that TYPE R valves go back in there.. I heard a story around here that a kid had his R valves checked in his civic and they toke them all out and replaced them with regular ones and he was none the wiser till he had a certified tech look at it.
As far as pulling the head never did it before on my car but helped a friend with his CRX.
ALL i need is the info on readjusting and i will be fine if i wasnt sure of my self i wouldnt jump in there
Do you know off any site that has this info besides looking for a helms owner
If u really bent a valve, u will have no compression in that cylinder. You will have a dead miss at idle. If u still have a rev limiter on your set-up, u may be ok. Compression test is #1 to do, but u need to check to see if maybe one(or both) of your cams have jumped timing. If you are off a tooth, u will get that funny exhaust noise. It sounds like a plugged exhaust when this happens.
I still Have a rev Limiter. But I am A little questionable able that cause like i said my AVC showed the peak rev at 9999 so it was probbaly over that and isnt the rev limiter at around 9000.
I am still waiting to do the compression test and leak down, i am going to do it tonite.
Can anyone tell me what each clyinders compression should be?
EARL- How would i know if the cams jumped?? and whats the fix for that?
Thanks for your reply EARL
I appericate anyones reply with help on this matter
I am still waiting to do the compression test and leak down, i am going to do it tonite.
Can anyone tell me what each clyinders compression should be?
EARL- How would i know if the cams jumped?? and whats the fix for that?
Thanks for your reply EARL
I appericate anyones reply with help on this matter
In this situation, the rev limiter doesn't matter, because you mechanically over reved the engine. There is no rev limiter to stop this from happening. The transmission caused the engine to rev that high, rather than the combustion.
If your cams jumped, the car would run like crap, or not run at all You can check it by puling your valve cover off, putting the engine to TDC, and checking the cam gear marks.
I'm not sure what readings you should get for your compression. What engine to you have?
Hope this helps!
Reefer_Bob.
If your cams jumped, the car would run like crap, or not run at all You can check it by puling your valve cover off, putting the engine to TDC, and checking the cam gear marks.
I'm not sure what readings you should get for your compression. What engine to you have?
Hope this helps!
Reefer_Bob.
Just as Bob says, set the engine on #1 top dead center and see if the timing marks line up properly. If not, loosen the timing belt, move the cam that does not line up properly, tighten the timing belt back up. If u are inexperienced (sounds like u are), find an experienced friend or get a manual. Not an easy task for a rookie to this, but it is do-able. Good luck
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if the car is putting u have bent valves,
my car puttered after my swapdid that mean i have bent valves?
be specific.
Its possible you bent a valve. simplest thing to do is a compression test. i think with a b18c5 the numbers should be around 200 but i COULD BE WRONG. anyway the numbers will be close to each other. if you get like a 200, 205, 200 and a 160. youve got a problem.
I think he means a puttering sound on the exhaust, assuming it was the exhaust valve that floated and as a result bent. You will hear it. If it was the intake you'll hear that too from the intake side just pull off the intake tube. But the way to be certain as explained is with a comression test, and a leakdown test.
With bent valves, the car will idle very poorly. The idle will fluctulate from near stalling to a high idle. Compression on a C5 should be in the low 200's. But what you're looking for is consistancy. Like Kamin said, if one is way off from the others there's a problem. In my engine, I happend to bend all 8 exhaust valves, so the compression test wasn't real acurate. The leak down test will tell you better. Hope all this helps!
Reefer_Bob.
Reefer_Bob.
start your car, and go listen to your exhaust tip. if it sounds like half on a v6, then your not firing on a few cylinders.. believe me.. i know
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OK i did A compression test
Cylinder 1 - 180
Cylinder 2 - 185
Cylinder 3 - 200
Cylinder 4 - 180
After that i did a leak down test and I heard no leaks on the intake or exhaust side.
This is how i did it (please let me know if i did it correctly)
Turned the crank til 1 and 4 topped out
I pumped 40psi into number #1 and nothin out the opened TB or the Exhuast and i did not lose any pressure in the air tank
Same for # 4
Then i turn the crank until 2 and 3 where topped out and did the same thing
with the same results.
Dunno what to do next.
Side note my Spark plugs are black like super rich black
and i can see alot of black deposits on the piston head
I bought new plugs but they gave me the wrong ones i think cuase they like longer
The stock plugs in there are NKG PFR6G
The ones they gave me where NKG PZFR5F-11
I dont think they rae the right ones but if anyone knows exactly let me know
Talks for all replies
Cylinder 1 - 180
Cylinder 2 - 185
Cylinder 3 - 200
Cylinder 4 - 180
After that i did a leak down test and I heard no leaks on the intake or exhaust side.
This is how i did it (please let me know if i did it correctly)
Turned the crank til 1 and 4 topped out
I pumped 40psi into number #1 and nothin out the opened TB or the Exhuast and i did not lose any pressure in the air tank
Same for # 4
Then i turn the crank until 2 and 3 where topped out and did the same thing
with the same results.
Dunno what to do next.
Side note my Spark plugs are black like super rich black
and i can see alot of black deposits on the piston head
I bought new plugs but they gave me the wrong ones i think cuase they like longer
The stock plugs in there are NKG PFR6G
The ones they gave me where NKG PZFR5F-11
I dont think they rae the right ones but if anyone knows exactly let me know
Talks for all replies
did you do the compession test with no accesories on, car hot and FULLTHROTTLE with all plugs pulled cranking around 7 times? those numbers are low it seems to me, BUT, they are within spec of each other (i think 20%?). if it was my car, the plugs i'd be running are bkpr6e-11.
No bent valves, that's for sure with those numbers. Cam timing probably ok but did u check it? Put a timing light on it next to see if timing is close to being correct. If not close, go back and recheck cam timing. Everything look ok under the car? No kinks in the exhaust? Pop off the cat. to see if it got plugged somehow. Keep going, you're doing good so far.
OK i pulled the valve cover and put the crank to TDC and the cam gear marks are dead on. So thats fine...didnt check witha timing light though.
Visual inspected everything as far as springs and retainers all looks OK.
Except my pistons look like theres a small swamp of carbon on top of them
Anyway everything is ok under the car as far as exhaust and things but thank god i happen to find a very minimal brake leak in one of my lines...so i am going to get stainless steel lines now.
Well in doing everything still no result.
Then for some stupid reason i wanted to check my TPS readings on my V-AFC
and with ACC on Engine off it was .33 -- way low --
So i adjusted the TPS to .5 and started it
BINGO car runs fine
I couldnt believe it i was losing sleep the night before and went hours tested and inspecting this car for engine damage and the *bleep bleep bleep* TPS wasnt proper set.
I guess under the heavy load of the engine moving like a basterd at over 10,000rpms the TPS shifted a little (aftermarket TB)
So I thank everyone for there help...you guys are great...i am glad that i can find this help without taking the car to someone that will charge me a ton...At least now i know how to diagnose an engine problem if it ever did occur.(knock on wood)
I am probbaly going to pull the head soon any way for a thicker headgasket but at least now i know i am still healthy under that beautiful red valve cover.
Gotta Love Honda -- Over 10,000rpms and still chugging (with slight worries)
I am going strait out to hit VTEC after i change that brake line
Thanks Again guys
Visual inspected everything as far as springs and retainers all looks OK.
Except my pistons look like theres a small swamp of carbon on top of them
Anyway everything is ok under the car as far as exhaust and things but thank god i happen to find a very minimal brake leak in one of my lines...so i am going to get stainless steel lines now.
Well in doing everything still no result.
Then for some stupid reason i wanted to check my TPS readings on my V-AFC
and with ACC on Engine off it was .33 -- way low --
So i adjusted the TPS to .5 and started it
BINGO car runs fine
I couldnt believe it i was losing sleep the night before and went hours tested and inspecting this car for engine damage and the *bleep bleep bleep* TPS wasnt proper set.
I guess under the heavy load of the engine moving like a basterd at over 10,000rpms the TPS shifted a little (aftermarket TB)
So I thank everyone for there help...you guys are great...i am glad that i can find this help without taking the car to someone that will charge me a ton...At least now i know how to diagnose an engine problem if it ever did occur.(knock on wood)
I am probbaly going to pull the head soon any way for a thicker headgasket but at least now i know i am still healthy under that beautiful red valve cover.
Gotta Love Honda -- Over 10,000rpms and still chugging (with slight worries)
I am going strait out to hit VTEC after i change that brake line
Thanks Again guys
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